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Rustproofing tips and suggestions


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Posted

well, it's getting that time of year again when the kit needs a coat of somthing to slow the tin worm down.

 

The cost of Dinitrol or rustbuster is eye wartering and I find waxoyl tricky to apply and it doesn't seem to penetrate that well.

 

I've got abour 20lts of used engine oil and in the past I used this on the old Morris - under the car, waxoly in all the box sections and a coat of black hammerite railing paint on the floors every year. I have heard some bad things about engine oil - not sure how accurate they were 'cos that PC test they did on the sierra last year seemed to show used engine oil was quite effective.

 

I have also heard that Miller's Ankor Wax is good stuff and reasonably cheap.

 

The underseal on the Yug is peeling off and needs redoing - as do the sills which are painted in that black tough, flexible paint..

 

Any ideas - what do you use and what would you suggest?

Posted

neighbours are already looking darkly at the huge black stain on the road outside the house - the 850 dumped it's steering fluid in June...bit embarassing when it rains as the Exxon Valdeze oil slick gets washed down the road...makingt further mess will robably make it worse...

 

they are lucky though - could be Nigel's neighbours! :wink:

Posted

I've been using Kurust converter on the Fronterror's underside. The before and after is bloody amazing - I'm now left with a black satin finish that looks ok as it is, although I'm going to paint over with Finnegans rust proof primer and then waxoil.

Posted

Can't you thin out wayoyl with white spirit (or something) to expand it's usage?

I love stonechip, I've done three cars undersides in the past year. I painted it with zinc primer first after removing patches of rust. It looks ace, and isn't dodgy looking like Hammerite.

Posted

Transmission (manual or axle) oil is a very nice lasting oil to spray underneath;plus as its thicker,it clings on better,and if it does drip,isn't as messy to clean up.I do like waxoil,but it tends to dry out,where as the oil stays 'fluid' and seeps into the dry seams.Just avoid dousing the rubber parts

Posted

Hot dip galvanizing. Worked for my brand new chassis in 2005.... No topcoats either. Just fit and hose off/inspect regularly.

Posted
Hot dip galvanizing. Worked for my brand new chassis in 2005.... No topcoats either. Just fit and hose off/inspect regularly.

That might be a little more work than Scoots was hoping to do; strip the entire car and get it dipped.

 

But the galvanised dustbin look might be the next big thing, after ratlook rust, satin black, wrapping... only dead fish follow the stream :D

Posted

Zinc primer and stoneguard sounds like a plan after a follow of krust. Guess stoneguard does a good job of bamboozling the MOT testers quest for rusty brakepipes.

 

Heard that mixing used oil with dust is the way to get it to stick....powdered sawdust is good. Its an annual task though as it won't last

Posted

Granville do their own version of aerosol Waxoyl. After the marathon (snickers?) welding sesh on Jonny's MG Midget a couple of years ago we drowned the thing with it, about 10 cans worth, and it's still all good. Also, zinc primer is excellent.

Posted

I've got a can of Ankor Wax which I am gonna squirt into the Argenta's crevices, not used it yet though, and it was bloody expensive at £36 for 5 litres. it had better be good

Posted
I've got a can of Ankor Wax which I am gonna squirt into the Argenta's crevices,

 

I think that it's quite likely you'll end up on a register if you do that....................

Posted
neighbours are already looking darkly at the huge black stain on the road outside the house - the 850 dumped it's steering fluid in June...bit embarassing when it rains as the Exxon Valdeze oil slick gets washed down the road...makingt further mess will robably make it worse...

 

According to an old article in Jalopy, this can be cured using battery acid.

Posted

What a timely article to post - I've been pondering the very same topic as I'd like to do something of this nature to my mothers KIA Picanto before winter sets in down here in the Scottish Borders - judging from the past two nights I might have left it a bit late but we do (wonders never cease) have sunshine today!!!

 

A German mate of mine completely sprayed the underside of his Toyota Supra with used engine oil and seems to be happy with the results - the recent MOT had the examiner asking him a few questions of course but he explained the reasons for the oil slick :mrgreen:

 

Another mates dad was giving me some advice about Waxoyl and how leaving it in the greenhouse to warm up before use was a good tip :wink:

 

I think we need something that compares and contrasts the cost/effectiveness/effort ratios for each possible solution.

 

Is it possible to take a cheap gallon of fresh motor oil and add some sort of wax to make you own Waxoyl/Dinitrol type material?

Posted

IIRC, you can thin Waxoyl quite successfully. Also, stand the drum or can in a bucket of hot water for half an hour before using it which loosens it up nicely. (EFA Makes it even messier and nasty to work with)

Posted

In 2003 I managed to get 25 litres of ex ministry of defence rustproofing wax type fluid for £10. It's quite thin and flows really well and it gets brushed on everywhere on my cars. One tip is that if you've got a car that rusts out its rear arches is to get a load of wax in from the inside, it'll keep the condensation from getting drawn in between the welds where the inner and outer panels meet.

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