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Alternator - FIXED about flippin Time the Yugo LIVES


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Posted

Hi all, I'm having some challenges tracking down a suitable alternator part for the Yugo 45a. There is one on ebay but it is for a pre 1987 model and only puts out 33 Amps.

 

The alternator I need is a 45 amp 14 Volt affair.

 

The other Yugo alternators on ebay at the moment aree for the Sana and later models and the mounting plate is totally different.

 

It's looking like I'm gonna have to shell out for a new one of these and have been looking at Bowers automotive - the closst I can find is a Fiat/Autobianchi/Lancia alternator - 14 volts and 55 amps..

 

question - alternator mounting plates - are these interchangeable?

 

also - would there be any consequences installing a 55 amp alternator when the OEM spec is 45amp?

 

cheers

 

Scoots

Posted

If it physically fits, it will be absolutely fine whether its 33 1/3, 45 or 78 AH.

Posted

I've always found it's best to go by part number, Your old unit will have a number on it, get this and pop into your local motor factors they will be able to convert the number over to a new unit via a reference guide in the back of the book, As it's only a low amperage unit you might find it cheaper then you expected or they might even be able to recommend another unit that will fit.

Rememebr that if you do buy a recon unit from a MF's they will want your old unit back as it's a surchargeable item.

 

Failing that try posting the part number on here, A internet search might throw up something.

Posted

Have a good look at it Rich -its an odd fitment. 2 elongated holes (for adjustment) are moulded into the casing.

 

I dont understand the need for another? You said it was OVERcharging -thats the regulator -which is non -specific? If its stopped charging -thats a different matter.

Posted

Are alternators particularly specific to the make/model of car?

 

When the alternator went on my Maxi I just went to a local auto-electrics place who fitted a higher rated alternator, it wasn't especially for the Maxi!!

 

Just hammer a smaller socket over it.

 

:D

Posted

Nige - the alternator is only putting out 11 volts - 10 when the lights are on - steady output - doesn't go up or down on revving...this is not enough to recharge the battery

 

factors - ebay- wood etc...have tried them all - the mounting is unusual and only seems to exist on certain types of Fiat and Lancia and Yugo 45 and 55's and the mounting plate is, as nige says, moulded into the alternator casing. The challenge is getting one that fits the car...if I can plumb in a 33 or a 55amp one then no problem - job done

Posted

Can you not just get new brushes? Might be easier than trying to find an entire alternator.

Posted
Can you not just get new brushes? Might be easier than trying to find an entire alternator.

 

no doubt - provided that is the cause of the fault....I see you can buy Alternator service kits for about £35 - this cold be an option if I can find the right one...

 

nige...am I right in thinking that the alt fitted is not stock? - if so any ideas what it is from - it might be a lot more common than the Iskra one on the Yug

Posted

To answer theorganist's question, some are highly specific - I know of nothing other than a Lada alternator that fits a Lada, but Lucas ones fit pretty much anything that had a lucas alternator as standard - even down to whether they are left- or right-handed, if it's wrong and you're stuck, it's not a big job to make it fit the right way round.

Posted
To answer theorganist's question, some are highly specific - I know of nothing other than a Lada alternator that fits a Lada, but Lucas ones fit pretty much anything that had a lucas alternator as standard - even down to whether they are left- or right-handed, if it's wrong and you're stuck, it's not a big job to make it fit the right way round.

 

Ah thanks, to be honest I am still very much learning when it comes to what is under the bonnet!! When the alternator went on the Maxi I assumed it would be a right ball-ache as I wondered how many places would have a suitable replacement.

Posted
Your old unit will have a number on it, get this and pop into your local motor factors they will be able to convert the number over to a new unit via a reference guide in the back of the book

 

IF the person at the factors has an IQ / Be Arsed To rating of at least 6. Sadly, these are rare these days.

Tontops (20 odd years motor factor experience - retired)

Posted

That is true, I use to love jobs like that though myself, it was something to get your teeth stuck into, going though the pictures in the book, ringing up the supplier trying to source a recon unit.

 

Happy days.

Posted
That is true, I use to love jobs like that though myself, it was something to get your teeth stuck into, going though the pictures in the book, ringing up the supplier trying to source a recon unit.

 

Happy days.

 

 

pretty sure the alt on it a the moment isn't stock - just waiting to confirm this...I have been to 4 motor factors with the part specification both Iskra and the Lucas and Bosch versions of this unit - no luck -

Posted

IIRC the regulator/brush pack is dead easy to change on those, 2 screws and it's off.

Posted

The alternator fitted was a new replacement for a very tired original that was only charging at tickover. Above 1500 rpm it stopped charging. Prob a stuck brush or something but the item you have came up on ebay at 99p, (+ £4.50 P&P) as the vendor hadnt a clue what it fitted. So I just swopped over (2 bolts -both greased so easy to undo now!) & prob solved.

 

Its a pattern part but it looked reasonably built. Whip the back off -you've prob got a stuck brush or dry joint. I thought you were complaining it was OVER charging...Sorry

Posted

Thanks old chap will wield the spannaz today...dry bearing might be it judging by the noise

Posted

Dry bearings don't (on their own) send the output voltage to c0ck. Come on scooters!!! I think you should just give it to an auto electrician for an hour or two and let him sort it, I bet he'll fettle it for less than a oner by repairing or replacing your alternator and you can stop worrying about it.

Posted
Dry bearings don't (on their own) send the output voltage to c0ck. Come on scooters!!! I think you should just give it to an auto electrician for an hour or two and let him sort it, I bet he'll fettle it for less than a oner by repairing or replacing your alternator and you can stop worrying about it.

 

:D

Posted

This should be straightforward, don't worry.

 

Option 1: Give it to an auto electrician, ask him to replace the squeaky bearings and fix the charging.

 

Option 2: Spray the bearings with graphite filled oil or similar, whip the brushes out and give them a prod. Clean a bit with needle files, make sure they’re not getting stuck. Replace.

 

Option 3: Take the alternator to a motor factors and get something that’s mostly similar size. You might need to hammer a fixing bracket or something, and you’ll need a different size fanbelt but not a huge issue.

Posted

Bearing noise? Surely not -the damn things new! Is it a new fan belt -has it stretched? Are the inside surfaces shiny where its been slipping?

 

Lever it piano wire tight to see if that solves it? New fan belt needed.....

Posted

Thanks for all the tips - my initial questions were - were mounting plates interchangable and secondly what would the consequences be of putting a different output alt onto the system

 

OK, so traced the bearing nose to the water pump - so ignore that

 

output still 11 v this am so removed the alternator - as Nige says it is a stock one but is a 33 amp which was fitted until 1987 when they changed to a 45amp...as the car was built around then and who knows how long it stood about for (coventry garage used to buy them by the dozen and lay them up) it is likely to be a 33 amp as fitted

 

stripped it down - all looks pretty clean inside - wouldn't turn easily - sure enough the brushes are horsed! - integral to regulator and the holders are plastic - looks like time has caused the bushes to deply at an angle thus directing the spring force at an angle rather than making a decent contact...

 

Having a look on Wood Auto for the bit have identifed it but it looks nowt like this part so will call them suspect it is the same but aftermarket - unless somone has fitted a different VR assmebly to this alt.

 

£5 part

 

 

OR

 

Bodgery involving re seating the bushes...

 

will do both

Posted

def the brushes - the contact edge (shineybit) is only about 10% of what it should be and 5% on the other one - explains the poor charging -

Posted

20 minute blether with the guys at Wood Auto - Looks like my VR might be an aftermarket bodge job - the Iskra part number is not traceable and a similar shaped but different VR comes up when you search the Wood site - they suggested poping it in the post to them but as it is only a fiver (Christ - the VR on the 850 cost about £50 - Yugo - cheap motoring indeed!) I've ordered it will drop it in when it arrives and tha should be that!

Posted

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

ok, Voltage Reglulator and brushes turned up yesterday - got round to fitting them today....reassembled the alternator, checked everything was in place - certainly spinning a lot easier than before..So fitted it in the car - slapped n and tensioned the belt, connected up the battery and....

 

Whoomph....

 

the B+ to Starter/Battery burst into flames and melted out....fecking great!!

 

checked all the connections - all tight

checked earth - good

 

at a loss...

 

I do have some 27 amp cable - would it be worth replacing the buned out cable with it or is the same again likely to happen?? not sure what grade the existing one is.

Posted

You must have a short in the alternator. don't just replace the cable, theres obviously something amiss.

 

I'm telling you, just get the alternator checked by an auto electrician and repaired/refurbished if necessary. Theres bound to be a suitable old boy-in-a-shed type operation round Edinburgh somewhere.

 

The 33/45 amp business is of no concern whatsoever, thats just telling you how much power you can draw off with the engine running, before you start draining the battery. I dont think there'll be 33 amps' worth of accessories on a Yugo unless you've fitted some heated seats from a Volvo and a big stereo + amplifier so i'm sure 33A is more than adequate.

 

For starting theres an AH rating on the battery which is something else altogether, the rating of the alternator is of no consequence to starting performance.

Posted
You must have a short in the alternator. don't just replace the cable, theres obviously something amiss.

 

I'm telling you, just get the alternator checked by an auto electrician and repaired/refurbished if necessary. Theres bound to be a suitable old boy-in-a-shed type operation round Edinburgh somewhere.

 

The 33/45 amp business is of no concern whatsoever, thats just telling you how much power you can draw off with the engine running, before you start draining the battery. I dont think there'll be 33 amps' worth of accessories on a Yugo unless you've fitted some heated seats from a Volvo and a big stereo + amplifier so i'm sure 33A is more than adequate.

 

For starting theres an AH rating on the battery which is something else altogether, the rating of the alternator is of no consequence to starting performance.

 

yeah - stripped it off again - I'm wondering if the new VR is at fault - the alternator is about the most simple I have ever seen and I cannot see any sign of ...

 

any Edinburgh/fife shitters know of an old boy in a shed?

get your point re amp rating

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