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Posted

Right, I have resprayed before, I have applied filler before. However whilst I can get away with small bits of each I cannot profess to be able to do either properly and suspect that there is a very easy way to do both in comparison to what I do now.

 

I have 3 cars that need a respray. I have to say that I don't really have a clue what to do. I don't even know what paint I need or the best way to apply filler. Therefore I recently applied to that course at Leeds Uni on car finishing. Problem is its been cancelled due to lack of interest. Bugger.

 

Its pointless me reading about how to do something (and there is no point watching videos as I will have forgotten 10 mins later) I need to try it myself. Only way my tiny brain can learn.

 

Is there anyone on here within driving distance of me who genuinely knows what they are doing who is planning on prepping and spraying their car at some point soon who could do with some free labour?

 

This is a skill I need to learn. Might try the local bodyshops, but don't think I will always learn the best tips there, just the quick fixes. More interested in someone doing a good job on their own car etc.

 

Doing welding on GT6 next week weather permitting, Imp is welded up and Scirocco just has a shit paintjob. Saying that the Scenic needs some welding so could paint a bit of that too.

Posted

some videos for you here http://vodpod.com/watch/3418448-how-to- ... -car-paint

 

Bodyshops now use water based paints so they bake it on.The only paint available (if you can get it) for the home restorer is celulose so loads of overspray and a tendency to run.It also reacts with other paints so the Scenic is out as that would be two pack.

Posted

OR enamel :wink: overspray is down to the HPLV system not the type of paint.

Posted

Or DULUX :wink:

 

Seriously this is something I'd like to be able to do too. I once sprayed a Fiat 500 using celly but it took ages to get a reasonably passable finish and even then it still looked like a home garage job.

 

The only tip I can pass on (which was given to me afterwards) is that you need a decent compressor; I was using a borrowed electric one which wasn't up to the job - ok for fences but not Fiats!

Posted

Enamel can also be called synthetic, trucks and farm vehicles use it a lot, it's also very popular in the USA

Posted

You can buy 2 pack paint, which is pretty easy to use and drys quite well. However, the hardener has got some nasties in it (Isocynates), so you really need a air fed mask, and it do it far away from any neighbours..

 

You can buy 2 pack rated charcoal masks, such as the gerson 9000e, though, although some peoople don't recommend it

 

You just need to be sensible and really careful with it

Posted

Just take your time. It's a proven fact if you rush it, it'll go wrong in every single stage.

Posted

The key is in the surface preperation, get it as smooth as possible, and wipe over the surface with a thinners-soaked rag to get rid of any dust or silicone, then as you put coats on increase the ration of thinners to paint (cellulose) until you've got a nice shine and lots of coats on. Got to be careful it doesn't run though. Let it dry between coats, then use 1200 grade wet and dry paper in a bucket of water to sand the paint down to perfectly smooth. This gets rid of any orange peel and runs. Once you have done the final coat and rubbed it down you need to go over the whole car with T-cut and polish (a decent polishing machine can be used here). Be warned, it is a slow process!

Posted

The key is in the surface preperation, get it as smooth as possible, and wipe over the surface with a thinners-soaked rag to get rid of any dust or silicone, then as you put coats on increase the ration of thinners to paint (cellulose) until you've got a nice shine and lots of coats on. Got to be careful it doesn't run though. Let it dry between coats, then use 1200 grade wet and dry paper in a bucket of water to sand the paint down to perfectly smooth. This gets rid of any orange peel and runs. Once you have done the final coat and rubbed it down you need to go over the whole car with T-cut and polish (a decent polishing machine can be used here). Be warned, it is a slow process!

+1111. Gotta agree with all of that. That's what I did on my mark 4 Escrot. I was SICK to death of it, but all the work and prep paid off.

Posted

Yeah, don't use any harsher than 1200. Any less and it'll leave scratches you'll never get out, and you won't go back to the primer!

Posted

Ta for the tips.

 

With getting the surface as smooth as possible, whats the best way to go about that? How much do i need to sand back the current paint if i am not doing a bare metal? Will watch those videos and see if they give me any tips. Pretty sure I dont even use filler properly, as i seem to make it a long job but will see what tips I can pick up. Is there a better (and resonably priced) filler that is easy to sand and shape?

 

From what I have been told, I do understand it is going to be a long job. I have one of those compressors from Aldi but am yet to use it. Think its a 2.5hp one? What other tooks should i get to do the job? Are there any sanders or polishers that will help me do it reasonably quickly rather than using alioxide and fine grit paper by hand. I want to try and do the best job i can 1st time so am happy to put in the hours and buy the tools (the cheapest ones that do a good job - hopefully) to make sure its as good as i can get.

 

Hopefully going to have a go at spraying the GT6 soonish. Its a light colour so should hopefully be easyish. The Imp is white, which I am told is easiest, but i am keeping that so want that to be the best job so am leaving it till last.

 

Help appreciated. I really am clueless in this area. In all fairness I am clueless in most areas re vehicles, but am slowly learning.

Posted

Machine Mart do dual action sanders and gravity fed HVPL sprayguns.You should have a water trap but draining the water out of your compressor's tank before you start might be enough.Primer filler or spray putty hides imperfections.You need to take all the shine off the original paint for the new paint to adhere to.Don't rush the repair sections as filler sinks when it's hardening.After flatting down what you think is the final coat of primer a light dusting of a dark colour will show up high and low spots.Flat it down so no dark colour is showing then it's ready for the top coat.

I think there was some EU ruling banning the sale of two pack paints last year but I'm not sure if that covers all synthetic paints.

Posted

Hi.

I recently restored my old Citroen 2cv and I had never done any painting before, or any other type of car related work actually. I resprayed it in a single garage using cellulose and cheap equipment bought either from Aldi, or second hand off ebay. Before you laugh :lol: I think it turned out ok. Respraying isn't as hard as some might make out, I charted my progress on this blog so there's plenty posts on repainting, there may be something of interest to you amongst the other stuff too.http://olsnails2cv.blogspot.com/2010/04/winging-it.html

Posted

Hi.

I recently restored my old Citroen 2cv and I had never done any painting before, or any other type of car related work actually. I resprayed it in a single garage using cellulose and cheap equipment bought either from Aldi, or second hand off ebay. Before you laugh :lol: I think it turned out ok. Respraying isn't as hard as some might make out, I charted my progress on this blog so there's plenty posts on repainting, there may be something of interest to you amongst the other stuff too.http://olsnails2cv.blogspot.com/2010/04/winging-it.html

We firstly, welcome to Autoshite.

 

Been having a quick look through your blog. Will have a look at it in detail when I get home tonight. Looks like a great job. You have given me a bit of inspiration there.

 

Looks like a lot of work went into it, but it looks worth it in the end. I have got my compressor etc from Aldi, so hopefully will be the same bit of kit that can reproduce that kind of job.

Posted

Thanks for the welcome. :D

 

The gun that I got with the Aldi kit wasn't bad for the price, a gravity gun (cup on top) uses less cfm than a suction one, so is better for use with smaller compressors. My set up was only a 25 litre, which meant that I had to do one panel at a time!

 

Some things I learned:

 

Use panel wipe religiously before sanding down the old paint, otherwise old silicone polish may become embedded in the surface and you'll never get rid without going to bare metal.

Preparation is critical when using cellulose. Bear in mind that the paint is only microns thick not millimetres, so any imperfections that show before top coating will still show after.

Allow enough 'flash off' time between coats (15-20 mins) depending on temp, even though the paint may seem dry to the touch sooner.

Don't worry too much about getting an 'orange peel' finish. Obviously avoid it if possible, but if it happens it's easily rectified so don't let it put you off.

 

There are several paint related tips and demonstrations on my blog if you rummage through it, and remember I had no previous resto' experience whatsoever when I began the rebuild, and none of it was that daunting to be honest. :wink:

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