Grogee's spannering (Maestro, Avensis & Favorit). BIG SPEAKERS FOR TMS LISTENING PLEASURE

[grogee]

Flushed with the success* of resurrecting the Skoda engine, I did a bit of wire tidying today. 

Firstly to undo what I did when I was testing wires to find the no-run problem (taping back harnesses, that sort of thing) and secondly to address this stereo wiring. 

In addition to this, I removed the mag mount DAB antenna and added a 'DAB splitter' which utilises the original antenna for DAB reception. 

They are not as good as an external DAB antenna but they're OK and at least as good as a stick on windscreen job. Plus it's all hidden away.

While tidying the wires I incorporated my ignition feed for the radio, so it now turns on and off with the ignition key. 

Went for a celebratory drive only to discover two new faults: 1) difficult to select 1st gear and 2) I had a couple of moments of a woolly misfire which I'm putting down to having disconnected the battery/ECU and it's 'learning' new parameters. 

Either that or it doesn't like the triple electrode plugs I put in when I serviced it. 

[Yoss]

Well done. I never knew that was there. But if I'd had the same problem and mentioned it here I think we would have come to the same conclusion. 

Regarding the gears, was it hard to select all the time or was it particularly bad when it was cold? Because TADTS, to some extent and it will have been properly cold as you've not used it for a fortnight or so. It should get better as it warms up. 

But also, specific to yours, you'll notice when you push the gear lever fully left there is a metallic clang underneath. That's the nut and bolt that hold the gear stick to the selector rod hitting the exhaust. Obviously it has the Polo front pipe which is bigger and possibly runs a slightly different route. I tried turning the nut and bolt around as the bolt head is shallower than the nut but you can't. The hole in the rod is smaller on one side so I ground it back a bit but they still hit each other. 

Like I say, it should get better with use. Hopefully. 

[grogee]

6 hours ago, Yoss said:

Well done. I never knew that was there. But if I'd had the same problem and mentioned it here I think we would have come to the same conclusion. 

Regarding the gears, was it hard to select all the time or was it particularly bad when it was cold? Because TADTS, to some extent and it will have been properly cold as you've not used it for a fortnight or so. It should get better as it warms up. 

But also, specific to yours, you'll notice when you push the gear lever fully left there is a metallic clang underneath. That's the nut and bolt that hold the gear stick to the selector rod hitting the exhaust. Obviously it has the Polo front pipe which is bigger and possibly runs a slightly different route. I tried turning the nut and bolt around as the bolt head is shallower than the nut but you can't. The hole in the rod is smaller on one side so I ground it back a bit but they still hit each other. 

Like I say, it should get better with use. Hopefully. 

I think maybe the new gearbox mount I fitted has tweaked the box over everso slightly which is exacerbating any selection issue. 

I didn't go for a very long drive last night, maybe 20min so probably not fully warmed up. 

When I filled up with petrol the pump didn't auto shut off until the filler neck was full and it had burped out a nice puddle of unleaded onto the forecourt. Probably TADTS. 

While I was underneath last time I did put a fat cable tie from the exhaust to the GB mount so that it was supported from the nearside as well as the rubber mount from the offside. This may have also interfered with the linkage path a bit, not sure. 

The exhaust is hitting the bodywork when you decelerate, probably the engine rock isn't helping this so my DIY mount might help. Or just cause more issues again, like everything else I try to 'fix'. 

When I was driving last night I had cause to open the taps fully. It's very loud because of the K&N cone filter but bloody hell it really shifts. What a hilarious car! 

[Yoss]

I actually kept the air filter box from my last Felicia with an idea to fitting it to this to see if it would quieten it down without losing too much performance but like most things I never quite got round to it. There is a big space in the front offside of the engine bay where it should fit. It just needed some trunking from there to throttle body which is the main reason I never got round to it. You'd need some bespoke trunking as the throttle body is in a different place than the Felicia. I know you can buy these things but wasn't sure where from so it never happened. 

[grogee]

I'm planning how to attach this torque mount to the strut brace and engine hook - all suggestions welcome. I'm thinking two flat brackets bolted through the brace to secure the mount above and below, then a ball joint on the engine hook. With associated twatting about to adjust the reach. 

I'm also thinking rubber sleeve inside the two mounting holes to kill a bit more vibration and also make the ID suitable for M8 or M10 fixings. 

I also started the wiring for the rear speakers. Finding four core wire of a decent gauge was harder than I thought. I bought some Chinese connectors from Amazon and the terminals have crimped on surprisingly successfully. Result! 

[grogee]

On 09/06/2025 at 16:29, Yoss said:

I actually kept the air filter box from my last Felicia with an idea to fitting it to this to see if it would quieten it down without losing too much performance but like most things I never quite got round to it. There is a big space in the front offside of the engine bay where it should fit. It just needed some trunking from there to throttle body which is the main reason I never got round to it. You'd need some bespoke trunking as the throttle body is in a different place than the Felicia. I know you can buy these things but wasn't sure where from so it never happened. 

I bought some bits to make an induction route for the k&n filter. 

Something I seem to remember from the Vizard days suggested that a longer intake tract can improve torque because something something scavenging/intake pulse. Obviously this is very scientifically* calculated and the length is critical*: I'm just going to make a blind guess based on what fits around the engine bay. 

So my plan was to use a 90deg silicone elbow onto an aluminium tube, supported by the strut brace with rubber lined P clips, then have the cone filter on the end (to left hand side of car). 

I do have all these bits now but I think I first need to reduce the engine rock with the torque mount described above. Without doing this I think the engine movement would just pull the silicone elbow off the throttle body. 

[Yoss]

2 hours ago, grogee said:

I bought some bits to make an induction route for the k&n filter. 

Something I seem to remember from the Vizard days suggested that a longer intake tract can improve torque because something something scavenging/intake pulse. Obviously this is very scientifically* calculated and the length is critical*: I'm just going to make a blind guess based on what fits around the engine bay. 

So my plan was to use a 90deg silicone elbow onto an aluminium tube, supported by the strut brace with rubber lined P clips, then have the cone filter on the end (to left hand side of car). 

I do have all these bits now but I think I first need to reduce the engine rock with the torque mount described above. Without doing this I think the engine movement would just pull the silicone elbow off the throttle body. 

Yes because you need more torque don't you! But it seems like a good idea if only to move the induction roar slightly further away from your left ear. 

Going back to  the stereo you mentioned making a plywood parcel shelf. Does this mean you are going to leave original shelf unmolested? 

Mine came with stupidly large speakers cut in to the shelf. So large that the tailgate wouldn't stay open. I threw them away but have still been unable to find a replacement intact mk1 parcel shelf (of course mk1 and 2 shelves are totally different and not interchangeable). So I have resorted to a giffertastic tartan blanket to cover the holes up. 

[grogee]

4 minutes ago, Yoss said:

Yes because you need more torque don't you! But it seems like a good idea if only to move the induction roar slightly further away from your left ear. 

Going back to  the stereo you mentioned making a plywood parcel shelf. Does this mean you are going to leave original shelf unmolested? 

Mine came with stupidly large speakers cut in to the shelf. So large that the tailgate wouldn't stay open. I threw them away but have still been unable to find a replacement intact mk1 parcel shelf (of course mk1 and 2 shelves are totally different and not interchangeable). So I have resorted to a giffertastic tartan blanket to cover the holes up. 

Argh that's criminal... I don't mind big speakers but parcel shelves aren't normally up to supporting heavy speakers without reinforcement. 

I was toying with the idea of cutting holes in mine with ply underneath but it seems a shame to spoil the shelf if they're hard to get. In which case I'll just make a rectangle piece with holes cut in it with a hole saw - measured and everything, so it doesn't look completely shit. 

Actually I don't have a hole saw big enough for the speakers, they are 8" round so pretty big. I was going to approximate a circle using smaller holes, it's an interesting mathematical problem. 

Basically I have to drill several holes big enough to make a roughly circular hole but I can't drill holes into where the centre bit of the drill sits for the next cut. I'm not explaining it very well really, but I might ask chat gpt to tell me how to do it. 

[grogee]

Not sure Chat GPT has quite got this right:

"One way to approximate an 8" hole using smaller hole saws is to cut multiple smaller holes and then connect them together. 

First, use the 5" hole saw to cut a hole in the center of where you want the 8" hole to be. Then, use the 1" hole saw to cut four additional holes around the perimeter of the 5" hole, evenly spaced apart. 

Next, use a jigsaw or a coping saw to connect the smaller holes, cutting straight lines between each of them to create the final 8" hole shape. 

Make sure to take your time and work carefully to ensure a clean and accurate final result."

and

"Another way to approximate an 8" hole using smaller hole saws is to use multiple concentric circles. 

Start by using the 5" hole saw to cut a hole in the center of the plywood. Then, use the 3" hole saw to cut a second hole around the perimeter of the 5" hole. Repeat this process with the 1" and 1.5" hole saws, creating additional concentric circles around the center hole.

After cutting the smaller holes, use a jigsaw to connect the innermost and outermost circles, creating the final 8" hole shape. Again, be sure to work carefully and accurately to achieve a clean and precise result."

[grogee]

I've taken a couple of days off to catch up with mechanical duties. 

First up, I was sick of tripping over the big piece of ply I'd bought for the Skoda Speaker Shelf. I took some good advice from here (sorry, I've forgotten who proffered it, but you know who you are). Screwed a piece of aluminum channel to the board to act as a guide for my reciprocating saw. And I made two straight(ish) cuts.

Then I made this pretty flower pattern hole. None of you bastards came up with a good way of cutting a big hole so this was my attempt. Then I used the power saw to join up the circle. 

Speakers in and seemingly happy (although not symmetrical in this pic). 

Then I wired in some bell wire decent-ish mains wire for the speakers. This isn't a picture perfect install, it's a rough and ready way of using some bits I already have. The P clips holding the wire are the wrong size, but meh - I'm running out. Also who are you, the cable clip police?! 

That's all for now, I'll pick that up later. This afternoon's job is Avensis service. I've just drained the oil and changed the filter so part one is done. 

[EyesWeldedShut]

I got Vice Envy.

11/10 for the fabrications - that's right out of my DIY instruction manual and gets the extra mark for using up more than 10% of ShiteIHadLyingAround.

[Brigsy]

Good work sorting the immob issue. Engine converted stuff always a pain to diagnose if not built by yourself.

 

On 09/06/2025 at 13:27, grogee said:

When I filled up with petrol the pump didn't auto shut off until the filler neck was full and it had burped out a nice puddle of unleaded onto the forecourt. Probably TADTS. 

Im sure they have changed the flow on the pumps over last year. My clio dci also burps a puddle of diesel out if your not careful, was fine for years until recently. 

[grogee]

Bit more spanner action. I'm well out of practice and I feel knackered now. 

Pads: yes there are some. Will need doing in about 6 months I reckon. 

Is 'ceramic' oil meant to look like evaporated milk? 

Went to the Southam Cricket Club car meet. I studiously avoided Boring John and his Quantum kit car. 

Lorryshite:

[lesapandre]

Nice to see something as unusual as that Scammell in preservation.

Unusual exhaust (?) position there.

Web say's in the 1960s, Scammell contracted Giovanni Michelotti to design its cabs - I don't know enough about these to know if this is one. But fascinating detail.

[Yoss]

23 minutes ago, lesapandre said:

Nice to see something as unusual as that Scammell in preservation.

Unusual exhaust (?) position there.

Web say's in the 1960s, Scammell contracted Giovanni Michelotti to design its cabs - I don't know enough about these to know if this is one. But fascinating detail.

It was these, the Scammell Routeman. 

Along with the Leyland National, 

And most Triumphs of the 60s and 70s.

 

Quite a diverse portfolio. 

[Yoss]

19 hours ago, grogee said:

I've taken a couple of days off to catch up with mechanical duties. 

First up, I was sick of tripping over the big piece of ply I'd bought for the Skoda Speaker Shelf. I took some good advice from here (sorry, I've forgotten who proffered it, but you know who you are). Screwed a piece of aluminum channel to the board to act as a guide for my reciprocating saw. And I made two straight(ish) cuts.

Then I made this pretty flower pattern hole. None of you bastards came up with a good way of cutting a big hole so this was my attempt. Then I used the power saw to join up the circle. 

Speakers in and seemingly happy (although not symmetrical in this pic). 

Then I wired in some bell wire decent-ish mains wire for the speakers. This isn't a picture perfect install, it's a rough and ready way of using some bits I already have. The P clips holding the wire are the wrong size, but meh - I'm running out. Also who are you, the cable clip police?! 

That's all for now, I'll pick that up later. This afternoon's job is Avensis service. I've just drained the oil and changed the filter so part one is done. 

You are definitely going to need new gas struts for the tailgate! 

[Sunny Jim]

I used this supplier on eBay to replace the boot struts on the hearse - they needed to be extra beefy to hold the large heavy fibreglass bootlid up. The link is for the 600mm 600N ones I bought but they do a variety of different lengths and strengths and you can specify what fittings you want on the ends.

https://ebay.us/m/9hWOjU

[lesapandre]

9 hours ago, Yoss said:

It was these, the Scammell Routeman. 

Along with the Leyland National, 

And most Triumphs of the 60s and 70s.

 

Quite a diverse portfolio. 

The Routeman cab is grp apparently - so the corregation is both styling and has some practical basis in strengthening the overall structure. Clever bit of design that - clever Michelotti 👏. 

Sadly died aged 58 in 1980 - BL might have been very different with his continuing input. 

[lesapandre]

It's 100 years tomorrow that Maestro designer David Bache was born.

[grogee]

2 hours ago, lesapandre said:

It's 100 years tomorrow that Maestro designer David Bache was born.

In honour of this, tomorrow I will leave the Maestro in its lockup and not use it at all. 

[High Jetter]

1 hour ago, grogee said:

In honour of this, tomorrow I will leave the Maestro in its lockup and not use it at all. 

Got a busy day? 😄

[grogee]

Today I attacked the Favorit and first up was my DIY torque mount. 

Rather than measure everything precisely I opted for the 'throw it in and hope it works' option. Hence the skewed angle. I could claim it's mounted like that to improve NVH or something but really that's just how the cookie crumbled. Haven't tested it yet, will test tomorrow when I go to collect Master Grogee. 

Next up: the driver's seat (good song BTW, look it up). There was a slightly terrifying sheet of metal hanging down that looked like it would happily slice my feet off in an accident. 

Being a fully qualified cable tie engineer, I drilled some holes and sewed it back together. Longer term I'd like to find some different seats as I'm not getting on with these. 

Then I routed the 4-way speaker cable through the car to the back where it'll meet the previously constructed speaker shelf. It'll have a connector so I can quick release the shelf if I need to carry stuff. 

Best bit? Finding 50 pee. 

[Yoss]

I'll have that back if you don't mind! 

[grogee]

Bit more this morning, away from the fierce sunshine. I got the speaker shelf wired in, it's just sitting there with no hinge or lifter strings. 

I fitted some foam tape to the trim that holds the shelf, forgetting that it is double sided sticky - maybe I'll put something on the top sticky side to stop it sticking to the shelf. 

Verdict: much improved sounds. I'm pleasantly surprised by how well the head unit's internal amp can drive those big speakers. It won't be window rattling bass of course, but the main objective was to improve listening ability to drown out the squeaks and rattles. 

I had a change of mind on the engine steady, bolted the ball joint in from the other side. Tried it this morning and it seems to have improved engine rock. Amazingly I can't detect any additional engine noise which is a miracle. Whether it'll hold together long term is another matter, I'll keep an eye on it though. 

Next project will be to fit the induction 'extension' I mentioned above. 

In the meantime I've swapped it for the Stro, intending to clean the Stro as it's a bit grubby. Interesting to jump straight from the Skoda into the Maestro, there are so many differences. The Skoda makes the Maestro feel like a thoroughly engineered and developed car, which in some ways it is. But it's not as lightning fast.