jakebullet Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Last disco MOT I had an advisory for "all chassis and underside of vehicle corroding" which makes me rather miffed as I spent a lot of time with a needle gun before painting it with rust buster epoxy mastic rust proofing paint. There's an element of MOT man hates me, as I think it's a cunning plan to make the car unsalable to anyone who checks MOT history. Obvs he doesn't know no car ever makes it out alive from my ownership. While it's not as bad as he describes it is rusting again in places. Boo! So I think I need a new paint system. Before I have a really shit time with air tools I'm going to test the paint first. I'm going with products from https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/ as they have lots of reviews from other idiots afflicted with land rovers. To the test! First take a chunk of steel and leave it out in the rain for a month or two: I'm hoping this is similar / worse rust levels after needle gunning. I've then applied 2 coats of rust encapsulator chassis which is supposed to convert rust to not rust, and be a primer. Then 2 coats of chassis in one paint. Then 2 coats of WAR, which if you believe the guff is a hybrid of underseal and wax. Deffo strange stuff. So I now have: Rusty metal at the top as a control, 1/4 rust converter, 1/4 converter + CIO, 1/4 converter/ CIO / WAR. I now need a test bed. Like smoll car: I suspect we'll still be getting crap weather and salty roads, so a few months of road spray should test it fairly well. Spurious, spartacus, LightBulbFun and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minimad5 Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Buzzweld certainly seems to be good stuff. I've always recommended it, and plan on plastering the Outback in it, once I've removed the Schultz I stupidly put on 😅 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 The tester will sometimes advise on a car that comes in especially one as crusty as Discos get if when on the ramps it’s absolutely slathered in underseal literally to cover his own arse because there always going to be one dodge pot that covers up a rusty as fuck car with a hundred weight of underseal. Not that this is what you’ve done there but that’s the reasoning in that instance. twosmoke300 and Spurious 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spurious Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 21 hours ago, sierraman said: The tester will sometimes advise on a car that comes in especially one as crusty as Discos get if when on the ramps it’s absolutely slathered in underseal literally to cover his own arse because there always going to be one dodge pot that covers up a rusty as fuck car with a hundred weight of underseal. Not that this is what you’ve done there but that’s the reasoning in that instance. I've seen comments of the likes "chassis heavily undersealed" on the advisories, surely that's the right way to do it. As for chassis treatment, I've come round to the idea that grease/wax based sealant that doesn't dry out (unlike Waxol) would be better than something that dries out and let's the rust come in from behind is better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warch Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 I still favour the ecologically dubious but highly effective engine oil underseal technique, because inexpensive (well actually free). My new compressor comes with one of those little paraffin cleaning tools which will spray engine oil without thinning it and doesn't make a horrible mess in the process. I did my Land Rover without any drips or mess on the driveway. It also makes undoing bolts much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garbaldy Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 /\ This is the point 100 bikers step in with you really should do that with waste oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warch Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 10 minutes ago, garbaldy said: /\ This is the point 100 bikers step in with you really should do that with waste oil. As I say it doesn't drip once applied, my dad has been doing the same thing for decades but brush applied (which usually leaves a Turin shroud Land Rover outline on his drive in oil), but it doesn't seem to drip any further once applied. Oil isn't as big an issue as diesel for making roads slippery for bikes, road film is much more lethal in my experience, either in spring when the road has been covered in shit for months or when it rains after a prolonged dry spell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakebullet Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 Let's see how my test is doing: Primer on it's own looks to be failing, mostly from creep from untreated rusty bit I think. Other two bits look good though. For giggles I also tried patches on moar seriously rusty metal: WAR at top doesn't look terrible (lifting at edges), primer in middle okish, chassis in one at bottom not happy. Bit of an unfair test. Next job, try and find clean steel on disco and do lots of painting. Before winter. Hmmm. Dave_Q and Scruffy Bodger 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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