RustyNuts Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Hi all.. Er indoors had an MOT failure yesterday... most of it is electricals (misaligned headlights, air bag warning light etc etc) but it also has a knackered coil spring which i'm half way through replacing - flaming storm isn't helping as i've had to pack up due to rain.. Anyway i've been struggling with the drop link. The threaded part that goes into the shock absorber has a hex hole in it. Not normally a problem - i've done loads of these previously however the micra has decided to be a pain in the arse type of car and the hex has rounded out. I've tried bigger piece allen key pieces in there and the same thing is happening. I can remove the drop link with an angle grinder, that's not so much of a problem but a replacement is £20 and it's £20 i'd prefer her not to need to spend. I don't have an impact gun or blow torch so that's out and the car isn't really roadworthy to take to a garage. I did get the nut to turn before it seized (yes i used WD40 before starting on it) and there's probably about 1/2 mm between the back of the nut and the shock absorber bracket. Now i can't tighten it back up either. Before i make plans to end the life of that drop link with the angle grinder and a cutting disc, is there anything i can do to undo the thing? Thanks
Mally Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Split the nut with a sharp chisel. Clean up threads.Fit new plain nut with spring washer.
meggersdog Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 I would normally slice through it with a 1mm cutting disc.You could spend a couple of hours faffing about to save 20 quid and end up replacing it anyway after putting in back together. Lacquer Peel and The Moog 2
Kiltox Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Grinder. If you’re that fussed about saving money, buy a £5 one on eBay. Once they’re that welded on they’re usually not that long for this world anyway.
Dan the van Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Stilsons have saved me in a similar situation.
sierraman Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Get a pair of thin nose lock jaw pliers and lock real tight on to the ball joint at the back then give it a go. There should be some flats on the round part that sits on against the strut. Failing that bust the ball joint off as they’re only plastic seated and grind the ball off the end of the anti roll bar. That’s never failed me.
Kiltox Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Get a pair of thin nose lock jaw pliers and lock real tight on to the ball joint at the back then give it a go. Failing that bust the ball joint off as they’re only plastic seated and grind the ball off the end of the anti roll bar. That’s never failed me.I think you missed the bit where he wants to keep the drop link...
sierraman Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 I think you missed the bit where he wants to keep the drop link...They’re about a tenner at ECP. By the time you’ve hacked about with it you’ll have probably damaged the gaiter anyway.
beko1987 Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Bane of my fucking life are droplinks this month! You need new ones, they won't come off easily now! Does the back of the thread (the bit behind the mount) have a flat for a spanner? If so it's not as painful, I had 2 other spanners wedged between the spanner on the flat and the bracket on the zx on Sunday. If no flats, then hacksaw/grind the nut off. Otherwise it's ripping the gaitor off the joint and hoofing some grips on and hoping they bite enough to not slip and turn the nut.
sierraman Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Hacksaw... it’s going dark in an hour... You’ll want a grinder on it, have it off in a minute or so.
sierraman Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Good investment for £20 or so. Wickes do a very decent one for round that price. The Moog 1
Kiltox Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 https://www.diy.com/departments/ryobi-600w-230v-115mm-angle-grinder-rag600-115g/1290635_BQ.prd?utm_source=engine_cpc&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=campaignname&ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZ3kBRCnARIsAIuAV_S4RQvRbuJe_c42mGT8oaP34T_8NLN2HIdCg89yPw2i-YGMt7AnyloaAqU1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Beko. Get that bought.
Momentary Lapse Of Reason Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Hammer a larger car on over the Micra... Maurice Marina, drivewaymyway, Daviedv and 2 others 5
Rave Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 I don't think I've ever done a drop link but if it's a nut you could try splitting it off with one of these: https://www.toolstation.com/nut-splitter-set/p80007 I bought them to get a track rod end nut off that I just couldn't shift. I ended up having to buy a new TRE anyway as I couldn't find a replacement nut but had I had more time I could almost certainly have got one from a fastener specialist for a few pence. Mine were branded Silverline, and despite them apparently having a poor reputation it did the job flawlessly.
bloobloo Posted March 13, 2019 Posted March 13, 2019 Can you force a torx bit in the rounded hole? Slightly bigger than you need and muller it in with a hammer. The hammering might also shock the threads and help loosen it. This has worked for me on a few occasions. twosmoke300 1
M'coli Posted March 13, 2019 Posted March 13, 2019 There's more than one way to heat something up. Do you have any meths, or shit aftershave? Wrap a bit of kitchen roll around a screwdriver and soak it in the meths, light it and hold it under the thing that needs heat.
drivewaymyway Posted March 13, 2019 Posted March 13, 2019 It doesn't take long to hacksaw the nut if you can do it without the nut turning. Claw hammer might help ? put the claw between the nut and shock..
fastblatt Posted March 14, 2019 Posted March 14, 2019 Just done the drop links on a 2010 polo and the new ones have flats behind the thread and I had the perfect thin spanner to fit...... the old ones didn’t have the flats...... out with the grinder. As has been said, these parts are really cheap (£10 a pair) so out with the grinder when the wouldn’t unbolt.
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