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How can I get the blighter to start?


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Posted

Afternoon all,

 

Apologies for once again being the bringer of VAG unto these hallowed beige pages, but I am genuinely stumped.

 

The other day, I changed the thermostat on my Dad's M*2 V* G*lf G*i and all went well, the engine warmed up to temp, and I set about bleeding the system. Whilst I was bleeding it, the engine cut out sudden, and now will not start for love nor money.

 

Things I've checked are as follows:

 

- Has a decent spark, plugs gapped and cleaned

 

- Distributor is turning and in good nick

 

- Injectors are working

 

- Have stripped all the air intake off back to the throttle body, which made no difference

 

- tried a spot of Easy Start in the intake, and directly into the cylinders, both to no avail.

 

I'm really scratching my head here, can't think what else might have gone. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks,

Abelw44

 

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Posted

Any possibility that you accidentally disconnected something? Or got water on an electrical connector? Beyond that first post of call would always be to check the fuses, then it’s a case of fault finding stage by stage which can be a pain.

Posted

Any possibility that you accidentally disconnected something? Or got water on an electrical connector? Beyond that first post of call would always be to check the fuses, then it’s a case of fault finding stage by stage which can be a pain.

There's every possibility I knocked a connector of or something somewhere, being as cackhanded as I am, but I've been through and checked every connector I can see...

 

I will have a look through the fuse box and see if there's any light to be shed there - thank you!

 

abelw44

 

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Posted

Check the rotar arm. For a few quid it might be worth a replacement.

Had an old Saab do the same, everything looked OK, but was the £5 item in the end.

 

Might be worth a look.

Posted

Run out of fuel?

 

Seriously it does happen (to me:)   )

Posted

One thing to say is stop. take a breath, have a cup of tea and a think.

Go back to what you were working on and look at it logically. 

The chances of it being something else random are small.

 

 

Do these have crank position sensors? 

 

Engines need fuel air and compression.

 

Assuming it has got compression it is one of the other two. 

 

FUEL  - If you are spraying easy start in and then it isn't going then you can rule fuel out. 

 

SPARK - So it is spark.

Have you taken the plug out, and held it against the block whilst someone turns the car over?

Were the HT leads removed?

Have you replaced them in the right firing order? 

 

 

Sorry if it is teaching you to suck eggs. 

Posted

 

 

I did take the dizzy cap off and have a look at the rotor arm, cleaned up contacts etc, so I think it's okay - cap and arm were replaced not that long ago, but thank you for the advice!

 

Pretty sure it's got fuel - plenty was coming out when I took the injectors out. But I have done it before and spent ages trying to work out why it wouldn't go without thinking of fuel...

 

 

Absolutely right re taking a break - will go in for some lunch now and come out with a fresh view on it all!

 

It definitely has a spark outside of the cylinder, have had all plugs out and tested - But I guess this doesn't necessarily mean it has a spark in the cylinder?

 

Easy start made bugger all difference, which would suggest to me that it is an ignition problem?

 

Pretty sure it's in the right firing order, and regardless, these 1.8 8V engines are bullet proof and have been known to run even in the ring firing order...ask me how I know...

 

Absolutely not teaching me to suck eggs, I'll take any advice I can get at this point!

 

Thank you all very much for your advice so far!

 

abelw44

 

Sent from my TA-1024 using Tapatalk

Posted

Usually, if it's got a spark but easystart won't make it fire then it's time to look at valve timing instead. You wouldn't be the first person stumped by a timing belt jumping a tooth or two.

  • Like 2
Posted

Does mk2 golf have the rev limiting centrifugal  rotor arm?. When it gets stuck the sparks go everywhere at the wrong time

  • Like 1
Posted

Usually, if it's got a spark but easystart won't make it fire then it's time to look at valve timing instead. You wouldn't be the first person stumped by a timing belt jumping a tooth or two.

If this had happened, wouldn't it have made quite a fuss before stalling? It just cut out, as if you'd turned the key. I mean that as a genuine question, I've no idea what it's like when the cambelt slips

 

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Posted

Hall sensor poss on distributor on these?

Not sure re sensors, I will do a bit of research this afternoon

 

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Posted

We want pics! It'll help identify the engine, what common issues they have and who knows, we might just see something you haven't.

 

The most puzzling non starts and stalls I've ever encountered have always been Earth or relay related.

Posted

We want pics! It'll help identify the engine, what common issues they have and who knows, we might just see something you haven't.

 

The most puzzling non starts and stalls I've ever encountered have always been Earth or relay related.

e5cc407ce193a1e8dd97726f95214637.jpg

 

a08afc909cdd4e8938214348658e2824.jpg

 

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Posted

Bonus points for battery charger shite?

 

I've checked the main earth strap, cleaned it's contact etc as well as the coil's earth strap to the engine block

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

How does the cambelt look timing wise? I only ask because I had a polo cut out on me at random and not start again. Turnt out the crank pulley had tore the teeth off of the belt. The reason why the engine turned over was because it was non interference. £5 belt and she was a goodun. 

Posted

Another issue might be the air flow meter not reading. As an example, my BM started and ran fine, next attempt it wouldn't hardly start at all and then flat out wouldn't go. You can run a Resistance test across the pins whilst operating the air gate.

Posted

Chaps I need to hold my hand up and award myself the coveted Autoshite mug of the year award.

 

Turns out that writing the firing order on the spark plug end of each HT lead is all very well, but if you change the order at the dizzy end those markings are no use.

 

So this clown had the firing order wrong. Hours spent trying to work out why it wouldn't start.

 

Think I must have knocked an HT lead whilst bleeding the system, so it wouldn't start. HT leads then got messed about with to try and remedy this, and at some stage they went back in the wrong order.

 

Apologies to you all for wasting your time with my idiocy!

 

She's now running like a peach once more

 

abelw44

 

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Posted

Cool. Bet you won't make that mistake ever again! Learning is fun*.

Posted

Yay winner!

 

Simple things - I have done that before

Posted

I air ratcheted my finger tight in between an inlet manifold and a head once. It was pretty tight and dark down there though.

Posted

What was the correct order that the HT leads went ? We might as well get something useful out of this thread.. 

Posted

You utter pillock..

Ta very much! I've earned that I think...

 

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Posted

What was the correct order that the HT leads went ? We might as well get something useful out of this thread..

The firing order is 1-3-4-2, as I discovered....

 

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Posted

The firing order is 1-3-4-2, as I discovered....

 

"I'm firing all the right plugs, but not necessarily in the right order....

  • Like 3
Posted

Turns out that writing the firing order on the spark plug end of each HT lead is all very well, but if you change the order at the dizzy end those markings are no use.

 

So this clown had the firing order wrong. Hours spent trying to work out why it wouldn't start.

 

 

I've done this before.

 

It wouldn't run (obvs) but made such an impressive backfire that it blew a hole in the back box and caused this cloud of soot.

 

post-24362-0-27084600-1550606774_thumb.jpg

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