JT’s fleet: Range Rover Classic

[horriblemercedes]

On 28/06/2025 at 19:42, J-T said:

 

Upper tailgate is a bastard to shut. I know the ali ones are a pain but this is beyond.

 

They are terrible for it. Some adjustment may help. You'll find that those tailgates are pretty much a consumable part (they really rust) and some replacements fit better than others. You'll probably also notice a gentle click from each side as it unlatches as you drive over bumps.

 

If it is getting rusty, replace it before the glass falls out as this will eventually happen......

[N Dentressangle]

4 minutes ago, horriblemercedes said:

They are terrible for it. Some adjustment may help. You'll find that those tailgates are pretty much a consumable part (they really rust) and some replacements fit better than others. You'll probably also notice a gentle click from each side as it unlatches as you drive over bumps.

 

If it is getting rusty, replace it before the glass falls out as this will eventually happen......

Started on the last page, and read only this post.

Knew straight away what car the OP had bought 🤣

[J-T]

7 hours ago, horriblemercedes said:

They are terrible for it. Some adjustment may help. You'll find that those tailgates are pretty much a consumable part (they really rust) and some replacements fit better than others. You'll probably also notice a gentle click from each side as it unlatches as you drive over bumps.

 

If it is getting rusty, replace it before the glass falls out as this will eventually happen......

It’s already had an aluminium one fitted, I’ll have to try and adjust it as the glass will end up in the boot in 1000 pieces , you have to slam it that hard (and that’s with a hand on either corner).

To be honest, I had a good poke around it and another drive of it yesterday and I don’t know how long I’ll be keeping this. It looks good but really it wants more TLC than I’m prepared to give it, talk about buyer’s remorse. It’s been got at by a gorilla, I went to adjust the upper tailgate and you can’t adjust the striker because the screws have been chewed. I’ve ordered an impact driver but otherwise I’ll have to drill it. I went to adjust the bottom tailgate - cue many missing trim fixings and a cross threaded hinge bolt, looks like they’ve just fired a metric bolt in there. I thought the blowers weren’t working and it appeared the headlights and half the indicators weren’t working… they do work, just not on ignition only, it has to be running (but one side works ignition only). I can tell this will just be the ongoing pattern. One of the swivels seems to have shat all its grease on the way home. 

It drives fairly well but it sort of feels like a collection of parts hanging together as it makes it’s away along, but I get the impression that’s how they are, 1960s design and all that. And Land Rover seem to have forgotten people have elbows - I have to open the door to get the ignition key in.

We’ll see, I’ve ordered a few bits and I’ll see how I get on but I would be lying to say I’m thrilled with it. One day I’ll fucking realise to listen when your gut is telling you something; nearing the age of 40 I thought I’d learnt that, but no “oooh shiny, ohhhh V8 noise, here take all my money”.

[N Dentressangle]

All the tailgates I've ever seen have been butchered that way - they're a shit design and people have been trying for years to make it work properly.

RRC electrics look complicated at first but aren't really that bad. There are a dozen or more relays which control stuff - some in the footwells, some under the dash, some under the seat and some under the bonnet. You're right that it's basically a 60's design which has been added to in a half-arsed piecemeal way over the years, hence why the 'supplement' in the Haynes is nearly as big as the original section... Just think yourself lucky it's not CANBUS, or a P38, or anything modern with many computers and sensors. All you need is a test meter, the wiring diagram and a bit of patience.

Put this stuff in the swivels: https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/one-shot-grease/ and forget about them. They'll nearly always leak out EP90 if you use that, unless everything's in perfect condition.

[horriblemercedes]

I've never seen one where slamming is the best technique - because the frame is so light and flimsy, the latch just bounces. 

 

Have you tried pushing it to and then giving a short, sharp push in each corner simultaneously? I've usually found they respond best that way 

[J-T]

1 hour ago, N Dentressangle said:

All the tailgates I've ever seen have been butchered that way - they're a shit design and people have been trying for years to make it work properly.

RRC electrics look complicated at first but aren't really that bad. There are a dozen or more relays which control stuff - some in the footwells, some under the dash, some under the seat and some under the bonnet. You're right that it's basically a 60's design which has been added to in a half-arsed piecemeal way over the years, hence why the 'supplement' in the Haynes is nearly as big as the original section... Just think yourself lucky it's not CANBUS, or a P38, or anything modern with many computers and sensors. All you need is a test meter, the wiring diagram and a bit of patience.

Put this stuff in the swivels: https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/one-shot-grease/ and forget about them. They'll nearly always leak out EP90 if you use that, unless everything's in perfect condition.

That’s part of the issue - the technology is a bit too before my time for me to understand what’s going on, so everything I look at, I’m starting at step 1. Is there a particular manual you’d recommend - I know there’s Haynes, but “Step 1: Remove engine” gets a bit wearing. I reckon I’ll have to do the swivel seal, it looks like runny CV grease, it’s plastered everywhere.

48 minutes ago, horriblemercedes said:

I've never seen one where slamming is the best technique - because the frame is so light and flimsy, the latch just bounces. 

 

Have you tried pushing it to and then giving a short, sharp push in each corner simultaneously? I've usually found they respond best that way 

Yeah, one side is a bit better than the other but one side really needs the striker adjusting, I just wasn’t ready to start warring with ruined fixings. 

[N Dentressangle]

Ah, I see. The Haynes is fine tbh. You'll get used to flipping back and forth from the main section to the supplement 😉

Rebuilding the swivels is actually pretty easy. You'll need a hub spanner like this one https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/wheel-bearing-hub-nut-box-spanner-defender-discovery-range-rover/ and a fishing / luggage scale to set the pre-load. Have a look at:

You only need to replace the balls (the expensive bit) if they're really bad. Use one-shot grease and it won't leak out unless the balls are totally knackered. You can order the swivel seal kit and bearings separately for about £40 a side.

[J-T]

Well that was a bloody war, but after messing with them for about 3hrs this afternoon, the lower and upper tailgates now shut to an acceptable level.

I started with the lower; re-tapped the ruined hinge thread after ordering new bolts to replace the assortment that were on it. Took all the bolts out, put it in the closed position and managed to get the whole thing shifted down about 3mm. Then undid both side catches and adjusted them, adding some washers until it would shut with a normal amount of force and until the inner handle opened both at the same time without repeatedly braying the handle whilst  pulling the tailgate down as before.

Once this was right I tried shutting the upper tailgate which was now fouling the top of the lower tailgate. I didn’t want to start adjusting that again, so I disconnected the gas struts and loosened the hinge screws. Pushing the whole thing up with the screws loose got me about another 3mm, so tightened it back up and it would shut again but the corner catches were still a twat to get closed. Cue lots of fiddling with the strikers, pushing them out and adjusting the handle rods so it would actually unlatch off the button on one press. You still have to give it a very hard shove with your hand on either end but it’s a lot better than it was.

I do find it quite funny that in the mid nineties, these were still being churned out with panel gaps you could walk through and everything shimmed to ‘fit’.

[EyesWeldedShut]

On 30/06/2025 at 21:09, N Dentressangle said:

Rebuilding the swivels is actually pretty easy. You'll need a hub spanner like this one https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/wheel-bearing-hub-nut-box-spanner-defender-discovery-range-rover/ and a fishing / luggage scale to set the pre-load. Have a look at

I happen to have one of those that's been doing buggerawl here since about 1996 - it's not pristine but is available for postage only if it's any good to anyone - drop me a PM

[J-T]

Had 10 mins before, so stuck my head under this for a closer look at this swivel.

photo has flipped, but yeah definitely leaking! When I cleaned it off it looks like the seal has somehow deformed at the bottom (again photo has flipped). Swivel ball isnt pitted though.

I was reading some have had success by just removing the plate holding the seal in and cutting the new seal at the top to get it round the swivel, then glue it at the top rather than stripping everything down so I might just have a go at that first.

On another note, does anyone know if you can drop the transmission pan on these without removing the crossmember/brace or the exhaust that runs underneath it? The Haynes doesn’t mention removing these but when I had a look before it looked like it might struggle for clearance and I’d like to do an ATF & filter change.

[kevins]

cutting the seals and putting them on usually resolves most of the leakage.

never done the gearbox sump, just the whole gearbox!

[J-T]

I managed to get the swivel seal changed over the weekend (the bodgey way) and topped up with one shot grease so I’ve been driving it quite a lot over the last couple of days.

Headline is, I just don’t fucking like the thing. I really like the look of them, I always have but the drive…nah, not for me, it feels like an old pick up truck and my head is stuck in the roof lining with the seat at its lowest setting. I knew it would be no L322 but I was probably just expecting too much from some very old tech. It doesn’t feel particularly wafty, it feels like a slightly more refined defender (I don’t really know why I expected anything else 😁) and it’s going to take too much to get up to the standard I’d want it to be, so I’d rather bail early on than convince myself I’ll like it better after I just do…(insert myriad of jobs on it) that I’m realistically never going to have time to do.

I’m going to give the interior a good valet then fire it through a classic auction I think when I’m back from holiday in august. If I take a haircut on it so be it, I’d rather just have something I like more! Shame as it’s an handsome thing but there we are, it’s one crossed off the list if nothing else!

Onwards! 

[Bear]

On 05/07/2025 at 20:26, J-T said:

I do find it quite funny that in the mid nineties, these were still being churned out with panel gaps you could walk through and everything shimmed to ‘fit’.

When BMW visited the factory Land Rover showed them the leaks and fit chamber. The engineers proudly held up three skunks, then locked them in a Defender.

"Ah, we use the same system, we let them run around for a day inside the vehicle and if we can smell them in the room before letting them out, the car fails. How does yours work?"

"If one of them is still in the car after a day, it passes"

(joke modified because I don't like the original one)

[N Dentressangle]

14 hours ago, J-T said:

I managed to get the swivel seal changed over the weekend (the bodgey way) and topped up with one shot grease so I’ve been driving it quite a lot over the last couple of days.

Headline is, I just don’t fucking like the thing. I really like the look of them, I always have but the drive…nah, not for me, it feels like an old pick up truck and my head is stuck in the roof lining with the seat at its lowest setting. I knew it would be no L322 but I was probably just expecting too much from some very old tech. It doesn’t feel particularly wafty, it feels like a slightly more refined defender (I don’t really know why I expected anything else 😁) and it’s going to take too much to get up to the standard I’d want it to be, so I’d rather bail early on than convince myself I’ll like it better after I just do…(insert myriad of jobs on it) that I’m realistically never going to have time to do.

I’m going to give the interior a good valet then fire it through a classic auction I think when I’m back from holiday in august. If I take a haircut on it so be it, I’d rather just have something I like more! Shame as it’s an handsome thing but there we are, it’s one crossed off the list if nothing else!

Onwards! 

 

Sounds fair enough to me. Completely understandable.

These drive like a refined Defender because that's exactly what they are and what they were designed to be. The Defender (and Disco 1) chassis are derived from the RRC, so in terms of driving, apart from engine noise and spring rates, there won't be that much in it. My RRC drinks fuel and handles like a boat, but it's great off road. I barely use it on road, because it's not that good at it, especially with big knobbly tyres on.

Hope you get as much back on it as possible!

[dome]

19 hours ago, J-T said:

I managed to get the swivel seal changed over the weekend (the bodgey way) and topped up with one shot grease so I’ve been driving it quite a lot over the last couple of days.

Headline is, I just don’t fucking like the thing. I really like the look of them, I always have but the drive…nah, not for me, it feels like an old pick up truck and my head is stuck in the roof lining with the seat at its lowest setting. I knew it would be no L322 but I was probably just expecting too much from some very old tech. It doesn’t feel particularly wafty, it feels like a slightly more refined defender (I don’t really know why I expected anything else 😁) and it’s going to take too much to get up to the standard I’d want it to be, so I’d rather bail early on than convince myself I’ll like it better after I just do…(insert myriad of jobs on it) that I’m realistically never going to have time to do.

I’m going to give the interior a good valet then fire it through a classic auction I think when I’m back from holiday in august. If I take a haircut on it so be it, I’d rather just have something I like more! Shame as it’s an handsome thing but there we are, it’s one crossed off the list if nothing else!

Onwards! 

I think you've been spoiled by the L322. I was too. 

I had several Classics going back 15-20 years and always loved them.

I then had a WJ Grand Cherokee about 15 years ago which felt very much like an updated Rangey Classic - woofly V8, live axles front and rear but with better road manners. 

I had my L322 in 2020 for a couple of years and fancied another Jeep after it went so bought another 4.7 Grand Cherokee. 

The Grand Cherokee felt ponderous and wallowy, even after throwing a fair bit of money at the suspension. 

L322s really spoil you as they're so fucking capable, you'll struggle to go back to an older 4x4

 

[kevins]

I love my 87 v8 classic, just driven over 300 miles in a day, half of it towing a caravan. I did come from a series 2 landie though!

I am happy at a slower pace (55-60) on motorways, its easy and relaxing to drive like this it's  nothing like a modern car but compared to othet 70s/80s cars it scores pretty highly.  Even the mrs approves,  "I don't throw her around like in the mx5/tr7 , the aircon works well and the squashy cloth seats are comfy"

The one thing that transformed it was fitting a Mark Adams Tornado ECU, it starts and drives just like a modern car and the improvement in fuel econonmy was amazing (did 25mpg on the first part of my journey without the caravan).

If you get a chance please could you send me a pic of the weight part of the vin plate on yours at some point the plate on mine has been replaced and they only stamped the vin,  the caravan at 750kg is well within its 3500 capability but I'd rather not have to prove it to VOSA/plod beside the road somewhere.

[J-T]

1 hour ago, dome said:

I think you've been spoiled by the L322. I was too. 

I had several Classics going back 15-20 years and always loved them.

I then had a WJ Grand Cherokee about 15 years ago which felt very much like an updated Rangey Classic - woofly V8, live axles front and rear but with better road manners. 

I had my L322 in 2020 for a couple of years and fancied another Jeep after it went so bought another 4.7 Grand Cherokee. 

The Grand Cherokee felt ponderous and wallowy, even after throwing a fair bit of money at the suspension. 

L322s really spoil you as they're so fucking capable, you'll struggle to go back to an older 4x4

 

I think you’re right, I thought I’d find it charmingly aged but it’s more like disappointingly archaic. That’s entirely the  fault of my expectation rather than the car though. 

 

1 hour ago, kevins said:

I love my 87 v8 classic, just driven over 300 miles in a day, half of it towing a caravan. I did come from a series 2 landie though!

I am happy at a slower pace (55-60) on motorways, its easy and relaxing to drive like this it's  nothing like a modern car but compared to othet 70s/80s cars it scores pretty highly.  Even the mrs approves,  "I don't throw her around like in the mx5/tr7 , the aircon works well and the squashy cloth seats are comfy"

The one thing that transformed it was fitting a Mark Adams Tornado ECU, it starts and drives just like a modern car and the improvement in fuel econonmy was amazing (did 25mpg on the first part of my journey without the caravan).

If you get a chance please could you send me a pic of the weight part of the vin plate on yours at some point the plate on mine has been replaced and they only stamped the vin,  the caravan at 750kg is well within its 3500 capability but I'd rather not have to prove it to VOSA/plod beside the road somewhere.

Similar to what others have said, I reckon if I had some proper work for it to do - towing, bit of green laning etc I would be more of a fan, as it would no doubt be in its element.

Will do on the vin plate.