Project 307SW FIN :(

[rainagain]

With my bangin' choonz sorted I turned my attention to lower priority fixing like the back brakes. The garage who did the MOT told me it had only scrapped through on the brakes all round. From the front the discs didn't look too bad

 

 

Everything came apart without too much hammering/swearing

 

 

The old discs were kackered

 

[rainagain]

I did well with my replacement discs as I saw someone on Gumtree selling a full set that had been recently fitted to a 307 with pads for £20. The front discs were no good being for the petrol model but the rear discs fitted perfectly and were like new.

[rainagain]

After changing the rear discs I was have having problems with them dragging. I first looked at the hand brake cable, it was too tight so the arms on the calipers couldn't return properly. Not sure if the left cable has stretched or the right cable is wrong????

[rainagain]

However even with the cable loosened off the arms wouldn't return by themselves, I found these 'helper' springs on ebay and fitted them. I still think there is a problem with one of the cables but the hand brake works well and nothing drags

[rainagain]

hi guys I'm really stuck, I'm in the middle of changing the timing belt, I managed to get the crank pulley loosened using the starter motor technique then my lidl air impact gun was slowly undoing it. However it has now stuck and the impact gun is doing nothing and neither is using the starter motor. Is there any one near Dunfermline that can lend me an electric impact gun?

[Tamworthbay]

Shame you aren’t closer I have one here you would be welcome to borrow.

[rainagain]

Thanks for the offer trying a heat gun right now as I think it’s thread lock

[rainagain]

Heat gun has only gone and done it! Don't I feel pissed off having wasted over an hour trying to remove one bolt

[Richard]

I have a 450Nm Makita gun but it sounds as if you don't need it any more.

[rainagain]

All good now thanks just trying to find tdc

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Autoshite massive opinion, does it look like my water pump is leaking

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Pic

[Richard]

However even with the cable loosened off the arms wouldn't return by themselves, I found these 'helper' springs on ebay and fitted them. I still think there is a problem with one of the cables but the hand brake works well and nothing drags

 

When we had C5s we had an MOT fail for the handbrake binding. It soon became clear that there was just a little too much friction in the cable. Replacing the cable involved dropping the exhaust and then the undertray/heat shield that covered most of the underside of the car- as well as paying a king's ransom for the new cables of course. I got a spare return spring from the opposite side and fitted it with the standard spring.

 

Then the other C5 had the same issue but my bodge wasn't quite enough this time, so I raided my box of small coil springs and fitted one around the end of the cable, in addition to the doubled up standard springs.

[rainagain]

I thought I'd add some more pics of my timing belt change in case they are of use to anyone. Firstly access is a bit tight, so ratchet spanners are a godsend. 

[rainagain]

Once I'd removed the arch liner for access I found some grot which I treated

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You can see where the oil has been leaking out the knackered oil seal. 

[rainagain]

After a bit of messing around and having to screw a self tapper into the seal, I managed to get the old one out.

 

And the new one installed

[rainagain]

I used the method I always use of marking the old belt and the pulleys and then transferring the marks over to the new belt. Setting the tension was a bit hit or miss as there's no tension indicator you just have to go for about half a twist on the top run, this took a little bit of messing around to achieve. Getting the timing belt covers on and off was a nightmare, I ended up removing the brake fluid reservoir and the scuttle trim at the bottom of the windscreen. When this is off you have to be careful as it's easy to crack the windscreen. Looks like the last person who changed the timing belt lost their rag with the covers as one of them was cracked and had mounting lugs at the rear snapped off.

[rainagain]

The top of the engine was always a bit of an oily mess so I gave it good clean

 

I can now see where the oil is leaking from, does anyone know if I can remove and rejoin this without disturbing the camshaft? 

[rainagain]

I've just found this, looks like my leak is between 17 and 18, as it's just seeping I think I'll leave it. 

[Jimbob McGregor]

Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky!

 

Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!).

[rainagain]

Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky!

 

Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!).

 

I did give it a spin and it felt ok, I'm still not sure if the marks on it are from water leaking or not. Since changing the thermostat back in March I've had to top the coolant up from the min-max mark twice so it's only losing a tiny bit. 

 

I got the timing belt kit (Ina) and the crankshaft oil seal for £54 delivered from carparts4less

[tommotech]

Be careful, I don't think you've got enough tension on the belt. PSA have a special tool for setting the belt tension, see the process below;

 

 

Hope this helps.

[rainagain]

in an ideal world I would have used a SEEM tool but I don't have one and I didn't think it was worth forking out for something I'd use only a couple of times. Looking on the Peugeot forums it seems half a turn on the top run is about right, which is what I went for. I surprised it doesn't have a tension indicator like all the other timing belts I've changed over the years, it makes life so much easier. The actual proper process is quite lengthy with multiple adjustments of the tension then rotating the engine then adjusting the tension again.

[tommotech]

Be thankful you don't have the later engine, where the adjustment is made on the crank pulley. The woodruff key slot is elongated so they could reduce costs and have a solid cam sprocket, that really is a lengthy procedure.

[rainagain]

Be thankful you don't have the later engine, where the adjustment is made on the crank pulley. The woodruff key slot is elongated so they could reduce costs and have a solid cam sprocket, that really is a lengthy procedure.

Yep that's what I had, I stuck a drill bit in the slot to set it up 

[Remspoor]

Be careful, I don't think you've got enough tension on the belt. PSA have a special tool for setting the belt tension, see the process below;

 

HDI_Belt1.JPG

HDI_Belt2.JPG

HDI_Belt3.JPG

HDI_Belt4.JPG

HDI_Belt5.JPG

 

Hope this helps.

Image1: If pegging is impossible......

[rainagain]

I'd noticed I was getting vibration in the car when idling and and the engine was rocking when you blipped the throttle. The top mount looked ok and I have only recently changed the bottom mount which suggested the gearbox mount was knackered. 

 

Changing this involved removing the air filter box

 

The battery

 

And the battery tray which has one annoying bolt inside the wheel arch which means you have to take the wheel arch liner out to get to it

 

[rainagain]

Then it was case of the old one out

 

And the new one in

[rainagain]

However changing the gearbox mount did nothing to help with the vibration, I had a look under the car and found this

 

Yep my new bush had failed rather catastrophically