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Wobstang II


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Posted

All part of a ghastly plot to lure me into purchasing an American car!

Exposure therapy I believe it's known as :-D

  • Like 3
Posted

That is a very impressive screwdriver! I think I’ve got screwdriver envy!

  • Like 3
Posted

All part of a ghastly plot to lure me into purchasing Huggy!

Exposure therapy I believe it's known as :-D

EFA ;)

Guest Hooli
Posted

My dad has a screwdriver just like that too, no idea where it came from.

 

 

As for the brakes, it won't have been the dead servo warping the discs. Without the servo you can't brake as hard (as you know) so you won't get as much heat into the discs to warp them. Most warped discs I've seen (admittedly not many) have been down to dodgy calipers so one side of the disc did more work & they heated unevenly.

  • Like 2
Guest Hooli
Posted

I wonder if there are heatshields around the carb/fuel lines that have died with age? I don't know these cars but I'd imagine such things would be fitted.

 

Is it a leccy fuel pump? if so have you tried waiting 30secs with the ignition on before trying to start it, that'd give time for fuel to refill the carb after it'd evaporated away.

Posted

Mechanical fuel pump- no heat shields as it's been modded. Bit of fuel vaporisation going on, best thing is to lift the hood and turn it over a couple of times without any gas pedal, get a bit of cooler air through the carb. My chainsaw was at it today, driving me nuts!

Guest Hooli
Posted

Time to add a heatshield? Not sure it'd do much good in the middle of a Vee though.

Posted

An electric fuel pump would be the way forwards, a low pressure one off something modern should do the trick for very little expenditure.

Posted

Have you been at the Japanese Bush?

Nope, and it ain't Japanese thankfully!

Guest Hooli
Posted

Nice chemistry skills there, I wouldn't have thought of that.

Posted

Giggitty!

Yes, fnnar fnnar, didn't consider that!

Always fancied a trip to Japan too...

Posted

Appears tiny brass kangaroos are now living in your car Jo...

Guest Hooli
Posted

Just to double check, it is a 12v cluster right? I don't know yanktanks but a lot of older normal cars run a different voltage (often 5v) to the cluster via a voltage stabiliser, I'm not sure if that feeds the bulbs or just the clocks though.

Guest Hooli
Posted

That makes life easier at least.

Posted

Diagram sucks for this one.

 

All I can guess is the light blue/red stripe wire from the light switch goes back to the fuse box and from there hits up the rheostat and other things that don't dim.

 

Check the dash illumination fuse first. It should be zero volts to car body with the lights off and battery voltage with lights on, both sides. If you got power only on one side of the fuse, there you go. Wiggle fuse. Curse a bit.

 

If not, Trace back to the headlight switch.

 

 

Phil

Posted

bypass the rheostat as well just to be sure

Posted

i think you need to try white/blue trace for dash lights for live

 

the double red looks like it connects to thr earth side of a lot of bulbs looking at the track which is labelled "white"!

Posted

i was using the pics of the cluster following the tracks and  my thought was top left for earth and right 4th down for live which looks like double red & white/blue on the plug

Posted

i spose you could work backwards and loop two wires round a bulb holder in the cluster stick 12v up it then find which wire on the plug is now live

Posted

I think its the fuse,checked it and with the headlights on its 12v on the right but 0v on the left :-(

Its the little 4amp ones you sent me Phil :mrgreen:

Guessing it should have 12v either side?

I can get to it to get my fingers to pull it out but I can get my Multimeter Probe on it

I was a bit surprised would of thought the hot side would be the left but this must go Right to Left?

I cant work on it for a few days now but I will probably get back to it on Thursday

Don't argue their logic. Right, left.. psh. Yes, it should have volts on both sides of it. The volts drop should be negligible across a fuse, the work in this case is being done by the resistance of the light bulbs.

 

Phil

Posted

If it helps my Capri ones aren’t much better than that either! I don’t think they were ever all that great really.

Great that they are actually working though.

Posted

Well, if you can see the speedo needle you're going too fast!

Posted

wot he said ^^^- up until sierra gl in '82 fraud dash lighting was appalling

Posted

as for leds dont forget they have a viewing angle of 70* compared to a bulb which is about 180ish- so you possibly get bright spots with led

 

the bulbs and holders look pretty generic ford (if they are quite big)

if they are the smaller type most types can be got at hellfrauds etc

Posted

ford used these loads- smoll ones for the warning lights like oil, brakes, temp etc and they used the mahoosive ones for night illumination all through the 80s/90s

Posted

I've found the little "corn cob" warm white ones to be acceptable for light distribution within a tight space.

 

t10-led-bulb-2380.jpg

This type, they do most bases.

 

Or you can use cool white ones to make a mean electric turquoise to match the color the car used to be.

 

Phil

Posted

Is voltage the same at both indicator tell tale bulb holders? Maybe the dimmer one has a bad joint or something causing a voltage drop?

Posted

Mine does the same. Must be an American thing.

 

post-5454-0-46946000-1532118965_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see there, BRAKE is parking brake plus any warning for system faults- split system failure, fluid levels (delete as applicable).

 

Phil

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