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Posted

Drained all oil and filled correctly.

Posted

Yeah, that should be fine.

So what exactly is it doing now?

Did it smoke a lot when there was too much oil in it?

Posted

You need a Mr_Bollox patented 'DO NOT REMOVE' scrawled on the side of the gearbox in sharpie with a big pointy arrow to the drain plug for future reference.

Posted

Very tappety. Sounds like a diesel...

Posted

Yeah, that should be fine.

So what exactly is it doing now?

Did it smoke a lot when there was too much oil in it?

Can't post video, are you in Facebook?

Posted

what oil did you use in this? these engines are very fussy !

noise is top end, tappets need adjusting 

Posted

The correct oil, 10/40 semi. It was OK before the oil change. Perhaps it had thicker oil in to hide the noise

Posted

As you didn't put 20w50 in you should have been okay... they should be 5w30 not 10w40 but thats not a big deal 

The gearboxes take about 3 litres of ATF and the engine a little less, so i imagine it was up to the bottom of the pistons!!!!

 

assuem you topped the gearbox back up with correct ATF ?

Posted

I refuse to believe that running it with too much oil can have caused serious damage.

If it would have been so much too much that the pistons, or even a crankshaft counterweight,

would have hit the oil in the sump, you'd have a rod sticking out of a hole in the block.

Yeah, the usual guess how I know does apply, although it wasn't caused by too much oil in the sump,

rather too much water.

 

So here is my question - do these have tappets to adjust, or hydraulic lifters?

Posted

I'm beginning to think the tappets were already an issue and that the previous owner had added something to quieten them. And all my oil change did was show up the problem. Funnily enough, it now runs and drives better than ever!

Posted

The tappets are easy to adjust, get it warm, pop off rocker cover adjust job done!!!.... They are not so different to Moggie Minor ones, not hydraulic or anything fancy

 

Just dug out my old dealer workshop books for these engines ED20 (what you have) valve clearance when hot Inlet 0.25 exhaust 0.30

34942978990_c43e48ab53_c.jpgWP_20170615_22_09_51_Pro by paul.bottomley, on Flickr

 

34942979290_0b263d454e_c.jpgWP_20170615_22_10_39_Pro by paul.bottomley, on Flickr

Posted

I've never done tappets before, is there a method to them?

Posted

Well the rule of Nine aint gonna work for starters.... 

 

best find a local shitter who knows what to do, but basic video here should help 

 

Posted

Nor is putting the car in gear to turn the engine... :mrgreen:

Posted

I've never done tappets before, is there a method to them?

If you don't have a manual and (like me)don't have the memory or mental agility for 'rule of...' rules;

 

1. pick a valve.

2. rotate the crank until the valve is fully open.

3. rotate the crank a further full turn (360 degrees)

4. measure with feeler gauges and adjust if necessary.

5. rinse and repeat 5 times.

Posted

Watch the valves - watch inlet go down - that's the suck part of the cycle - carefully put a long thin screwdriver or similar down a plug hole and rotate engine - the piston will be going down once the inlet valve opens . Keep rotating until the piston comes back up and is at top dead centre . Stop there and adjust both valves on that cylinder

Repeat on all cylinders .

 

Remember kids - basic principles - suck squeeze bang blow .

Posted

Agree that 5w30 is a better choice of oil. Valve clearances are pretty easy, though I'm going to do it again on the Bluebird. I'm glad I'm not the only one questioning their tinkering skills at the moment though!

Posted

Seems to be running fine at the moment, and the oil and ATF change has made it feel a bit more sprightly.

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