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"Haunted" BMW E46 Shenanigans


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Posted

The e46 is nice to drive, but I've maintained a mate's 318i for a while and it's hateful to work on. Every single bit of it is made of rust.

They really are atrocious underneath, I was shocked when I first stuck my head under one

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

When doing BMW rear brake pipes, I just change the lot. Front to rear pipes up to the centre joiner, over tank pipes, flexy hoses - everything. It's just not worth pissing about trying to save bits. A reel of copper pipe, unions and the flaring tool and crack on. Whole lot done in 3 hours and no more MOT worryance.

 

I was watching James Cameron's documentary about exploring the Bismarck, 3 miles down in the Atlantic since 1941. Still has less rust that most E46's.

  • Like 3
Posted

Completely agree re brake pipes. I started splicing bits in then though fuck this and replaced them all with copper. Had to drop the tank, pain in the ass.

 

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Posted

Mines had the pipes over the tank replaced too, I'll need to stick that in the ad when I write it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Bloody thing is haunted I swear

 

Went to have another play with it last night to try get me out of a seriously shit day.

 

Mate Adrian says that it started on the first click of the key, by the time I get there is is having none of it. no click, no whirr, no nothing. just the christmas tree of lights on the dash

 

Checked the voltage on the battery with everything switched off and it recorded 11.8v. That isnt going to help. Mate has an ancient 30amp start / charge. we connected it to the batttery and hit the boost but absolutely nothing from the Beemer.

 

Disconnected the battery whilst working on connectors, relays and fuses to make sure they are all seated. Mate closes the tailgate! the electronically operated tailgate! with the battery in the boot! Thought after that jump leads under the bonnet would have fixed the issue but much more fun watching matey climb over the back seat.

 

Cant find the crank position sensor nor the oil level sensor which Beemer forums have found to be at fault. does the 318 have those?

 

Need to remove the alternator to get access to the back of the starter motor so I can jump 12v straight to the solenoid with the ignition on and see if it starts. but it was getting dark so I went home again.

 

This afternoon Adrian texts me to say it started first click, my money is still on a fucked battery but why not start on the jump pack? is the beemer really fussy on electrics before it will start?

 

The alternator was putting out 13.9v which I am not sure is enough to deal with a fucked battery. Adrian is hoping to give it a thorough charge so at least we can relocate the haunted bimmer to North Devon

Posted

There's a jump connection post under the bonnet.

Yup. I've first-hand experience of one of these, thanks to my brother parking his one up for such long stretches I'd need to jump start it with the Xantia. I hope (and assume) the new owner is using it enough to keep the battery topped up now.

Posted

There's a jump connection post under the bonnet.

yep all over that one already, just more fun to watch Adrian climbing over the top of the back seat :D

Posted

Still no starty, despite trying a tow start!

 

So in a nutshell I have two more simple checks to make before the man with a hiab is summoned

 

Clutch switch is a suspect for the non cranking of the starter. It is hidden right up behind the dash at the top of the clutch pedal and on top of the master. Need to know what type I have before I can work out how to bypass it

 

Ignition Switch is also a major suspect and easier to check .

  • In start position check for voltage from the switch - that goes to the EWS (Security immobiliser)
  • If none then switch is fucked and easy to replace. If 12v then
  • If 12v then switch is ok and need to check the starter solenoid connection which should get 12v from the EWS when the ignition is in start position. 
  • If none then EWS is fooked or the key has become divorced from the ews (dont think so as it works sometimes)
  • If 12v then solenoid is fooked (despite it working on the bench)

 

used ignition switches work out at £40 and clutch switch is simliar. going again later this week armed with my multimeter and will report back 

 

No idea if I can change out a suspect EWS and if I do how to marry up the key to it again. Sounds expensive! and therefore not an option 

Posted

If it won't start even with a tow, the ECU isn't doing its thing. Could be EWS - an ECU kit (key, ECU and the EWS box under the dash behind the light switch) will sort that. A pre-coded service key from BMW is about £40.

 

Good used ignition switch for a tenner might be the first job though. They don't fail often though and if the dash lights come on, it's probably okay.

 

But be thankful you have the M43TU engine and not that hateful N42 piece of shit.

  • Like 2
Posted

Here we go:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-318-CI-1-9-M43-ENGINE-ECU-KIT-DME-1430940-/282404334622?hash=item41c09c2c1e:g:Jh4AAOSwXYtY0Tb0

 

You only need the ECU, EWS box (fag packet sized) key and barrel to start it. If you want one key only, fit the lot - cluster not really req'd.

 

Don't buy this one though:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-318I-1-9-M43-B19-ENGINE-ECU-KIT-WITH-LOCKS-DME-1430186-/132069851376?hash=item1ebffa00f0:g:6ZYAAOSwNnRYgO7n

 

The EWS box isn't there so it's useless.  :roll:

  • Like 2
Posted

Here we go:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-318-CI-1-9-M43-ENGINE-ECU-KIT-DME-1430940-/282404334622?hash=item41c09c2c1e:g:Jh4AAOSwXYtY0Tb0

 

You only need the ECU, EWS box (fag packet sized) key and barrel to start it. If you want one key only, fit the lot - cluster not really req'd.

 

 

So.. this should get around the key loosing its programme with ews? and that the ews needs to be synced to the ecu

 

Is my ID of the following bits correct?

 

post-3439-0-57708400-1491398578_thumb.jpg

Posted

Ignition lock is not sync'd but you may as well swap it over - piece of piss with a very thin, stiff bit of wire. I use an old choke cable.

 

Two boxes to the right are GM5 body module (the big VHS cassette sized one: wiper, central locking, windows) so you can in theory have locking etc on one key. However, it may not be from the right car - there's GM High and GM low dependent on electric rear windows, sunroof, saloon/Coupe/Touring and it'll probably need coding to the car. Best not complicate stuff for now. Speedo is there just for mileage, you don't need it to get it running.

 

 

 

Small box looks like antenna amplifier. Don't need it.

Posted

post-3439-0-45281500-1491814871_thumb.jpg

 

After doing a shit load of reading up and research on no crank, no click, no start and coupled with the old no bump start either I came to the conclusion that the ignition key was not connecting with the EWS (security module) and this it was not allowing the Engine ECU to do its thang.

 

Armed with a wad of paper and a multimeter I rocked up at Chez Adrian. I had already asked him if he had a spare key which he did.

 

result is one key which looked fucked starts car every time, the other key works sometimes but more often it dont.

 

Love an easy fix.

 

The starter motor is still dodgy though. looking to relocate to North Devon - via a collexshun in Bookham and handover in Alverstoke (shhh dont let anyone know I said Gosport)

Posted

So basically, after all this... you tried the other key?

 

*slow clap*

 

 

 

Good to hear it's sorted though!

  • Like 1
Posted

didnt even know it had one!

 

MP-4-YORKSHIREMEN-e1404398321722.jpg

 

2nd key? Luxury!

Posted

Haunted BMW remains haunted, trip home was uneventful. didnt even have to stop for fuel. Did have to dispatch a fucking gert big spider that chose to walk across the top of the screen while I was between junctions on M25. Normally such things dont phase me and I am a live and let live sort of chap but coupled with the following facts

 

  1. its silhouette was right in my line of vision
  2. it was what I would class as "a bit on the big side"
  3. I couldnt safely pull over and eject it into the undergrowth
  4. And while leaving it in it's Bimmer home might be amusing Sista thestag is not the sort of person who would tolerate such shenanigans without some serious fuck off over reacting etc 

 

Carcass was found this morning RIP mofo Spider

 

post-3439-0-93530300-1491913723_thumb.jpg

 

Cant find much wrong with it that the Romanians down at the handwash could fix for the £10 5* jobby

 

post-3439-0-11262000-1491913755_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-67807400-1491913725_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-76997000-1491913757_thumb.jpg

 

The leather on the steering wheel needs attention as does the gearknob, Passenger mirror glass is absent but the housing is intact and works.

 

Original radio reinstalled and works, crooze works, aircon works, reverse sensors work. Recent tyres and front brakes.

 

Only bit of rust I can find it inside the rear drivers side door, on top off the sill

 

1.9 Pez is not going to trouble the tyres much but it is more than adequate, the drive is rattle and bonk free.

 

If I was being fussy I might buy another bonnet as PO nudged into the back of someone hense the poor panel alignment and loose kidney grills

 

Cushty. shame sista thastag has called dibs on it as I wouldnt mind smoking around in it for a few months

Posted

Not a huge E46 fan, but the M43 1.9 Touring is the E46 to have.

 

Decent on fuel, go quite well, useful and fixable. The M43 TU was a great engine.

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