25v6turbo Posted December 3, 2016 Posted December 3, 2016 This is what it looks like when out,you should be ok,failing that get the tailgate panel of on the inside and you will see it from in there to pop outhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/01-07-RENAULT-LAGUNA-ESTATE-BOOT-TAILGATE-REAR-WINDOW-SWITCH-WARRANTY-X48-Y1558-/262699181955?hash=item3d2a176783:g:34gAAOSw5cNYF0Rk Kiltox 1
sierraman Posted December 3, 2016 Posted December 3, 2016 Diesels can take ages to get 'warm through' though if it's taking ages it's possible the thermostats fucked. Mine is but by all accounts the TDCI is known for being a cold arse, you could put a thermostat in tomorrow and it would be no better so I just left it.
SiC Posted December 3, 2016 Posted December 3, 2016 HID headlights aim themselves too low and are meant to be auto adjusting AFAIK Mine do that. I've tried telling it to recalibrate, but it's rejecting the request. As per my main thread, it was suggested that its probably the height adjusters have seized/fallen off. As I bought mine in the summer, I've only found out until the sun started setting early. I have noticed too that when they are supposed to dip downward to calibrate, it just hits it's end stop.
Kiltox Posted December 3, 2016 Author Posted December 3, 2016 I'll check out the sensors for it because the lack of light is awful
SiC Posted December 3, 2016 Posted December 3, 2016 Yup. Its on my high priority list! Most of the city is street lighted but still bugs me. My back is up wind up the manual adjusters to get the beam at the correct level - but then I rarely if ever cart stuff in the boot. Doing that with broken auto adjusters means you end up blinding everyone.
Mr_Bo11ox Posted December 3, 2016 Posted December 3, 2016 The headlights on mine seem a bit shit which is disappointing seeing as it says 'XENONZ' on em in caitals. I wonder if my adjusters have got problems.
Kiltox Posted December 4, 2016 Author Posted December 4, 2016 Think I've sorted the tailgate out for now by removing the switches and cleaning them up. Nowhere near as soaking in there as I'd expected which is good. Catch on the split opening glass is dodgy as hell so I'm going to avoid using it I think!
Guest Hooli Posted December 4, 2016 Posted December 4, 2016 My headlight adjusters work, they do dip right down & then come back up in a few secs when turned on. Dipped beam is fine, but the halogen main beam is crap. Mine is cross eyed too, but doesn't seem adjustable as the lights are all one bit.
Kiltox Posted December 4, 2016 Author Posted December 4, 2016 They self test fine when I turn them on but then aim quite low so i assume it's the sensor that's a bit duff. Halogen full beam is crap as you say, might need to get some bright white bulbs for that
SiC Posted December 4, 2016 Posted December 4, 2016 There is a option on CAN CLIP where main beam on these phase 2's also raises the HID headlight position to max too.
Kiltox Posted December 4, 2016 Author Posted December 4, 2016 There is a option on CAN CLIP where main beam on these phase 2's also raises the HID headlight position to max too.Can the DS150 access it?
SiC Posted December 4, 2016 Posted December 4, 2016 No unfortunately. Also in my fucking around efforts to try and get them to re-calibrate themselves I managed to disable the auto-raise on main beam. I had 2 codes stored, left headlight adjuster motor and low voltage. I suspect the first was caused by the second. I really need to acquire a CAN CLIP next. Kiltox 1
Kiltox Posted December 4, 2016 Author Posted December 4, 2016 I think the motors are working fine so that's something! Yeah a CAN CLIP would be useful - I'll see if Abrites can talk to it first though
Kiltox Posted December 12, 2016 Author Posted December 12, 2016 Tailgate switch seems to be working well since I split it in half by accident trying to remove it the other day and doused it in WD40 before putting it back together! Got the odd clunk/crunch from the front end now and again which might be the ball joint that was advised on the MOT I gather they're riveted to the arm from the factory but replacements have bolts - chances of them never being replaced before at 127k miles?
Kiltox Posted December 12, 2016 Author Posted December 12, 2016 Answered my own question - n/s has bolts, o/s rivets. Strangely it's the n/s that was advised which says a lot about the quality of replacement parts!
overrun Posted December 12, 2016 Posted December 12, 2016 It seems a right battle to keep these things breathing!
Kiltox Posted December 12, 2016 Author Posted December 12, 2016 It's all minor stuff though - yes the electrical stuff is silly but replacing ball joints and stuff on a 127k mile 11 year old car is hardly unheard of Lacquer Peel and Dave_Q 2
Guest Hooli Posted December 13, 2016 Posted December 13, 2016 Answered my own question - n/s has bolts, o/s rivets. Strangely it's the n/s that was advised which says a lot about the quality of replacement parts! Mine ticked over 90k last week, it's on it's third ball joint on the left & fourth on the right.
Kiltox Posted December 13, 2016 Author Posted December 13, 2016 Hazard switch is broken - same part as I replaced in my Tragic so I guess they're weak Amusingly it's actually cracked as well as not working - imagining it being punched in a fit of rage during a FTP when it decided to also not work! DeeJay 1
3VOM Posted December 14, 2016 Posted December 14, 2016 Hazard switch is broken - same part as I replaced in my Tragic so I guess they're weak Amusingly it's actually cracked as well as not working - imagining it being punched in a fit of rage during a FTP when it decided to also not work!Overused switch wears out shock! beko1987 1
SiC Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 Or overused as they say thank you a lot by flashing hazards?
Kiltox Posted December 15, 2016 Author Posted December 15, 2016 Don't hit it hard enough to crack it in those cases
Guest Hooli Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 The hazard light switch is the most reliable bit of my goona. I am now doomed..
Felly Magic Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 I've actually seen a Laguna 3 in use as a taxi around here, it's 57 plate, how it is still going I will never know, must be witchcraft
SiC Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 Laguna 3 is a whole different kettle of fish compared to the 2. Far better built, nicer interiors and a whole lot more reliable. 2l petrol (not 2l turbo - that's the Renault F4RT) & 2l diesels are Nissan design and sourced units.
Noel Tidybeard Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 eye as long as its an M*R engine code it'll be a nissan engine
Felly Magic Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 You don't see many Laguna 3's though, I suppose the mk2's comedy reliability put off the punters in droves
SiC Posted December 15, 2016 Posted December 15, 2016 You don't see many Laguna 3's though, I suppose the mk2's comedy reliability put off the punters in drovesThat. And also they aren't that pretty! Then the 2008 crash happened.
Kiltox Posted December 18, 2016 Author Posted December 18, 2016 So this has done 400 plus miles already this week. MPG up to 39 after a long motorway run, not sure if good or bad! Climate control is fucking shit - turning it below 23 makes it ice cold in the cabin so I'm not sure what's going on there. All in all it's doing very well though and I definitely don't think I look like I'm driving around in a £400 car!
SiC Posted December 18, 2016 Posted December 18, 2016 Control flap jamming/not working properly? Or maybe the light intensity sensor isn't working properly. I've not found mine to be bad - infact the system I find to keep the temperature much better than my Civic. 39mpg doesn't seem bad for an auto imo. The 2.2 diesel isn't known for its economical nature (both fuel and maintaince ).
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now