Advice re rust killing and underbody protection!

[320touring]

How do folks?

 

With the vectra rapidly riffling, I'm likely to need to press the Seat Toledo into service shortly.

 

Given its rarity and agr!, I'd like to get it protected before heavy use.

 

Anyone got any recommendations for the best approach re removing surface rust , converting and then covering so it doesn't come back again?

 

Cheers!

[DaveDorson]

Vatcan to treat the rust, then cover it in Epoxy Mastic 121  

[sierraman]

On an old banger, wire brush it back, see where it wants welding. Get it done, underbody shutz over any patches and bits that have worn away then spray underneath with 30:70 mix of Waxoyl.

 

Wouldn't go mad on an old car spending hundreds on top quality rustproofer. No doubt it's good but Waxoyl will do the job. It's all in the preparation!!

[320touring]

It didn't want any welding thankfully -just needs the preserving!

[sierraman]

Make sure it's dry before you do it.

[DaveDorson]

On an old banger, wire brush it back, see where it wants welding. Get it done, underbody shutz over any patches and bits that have worn away then spray underneath with 30:70 mix of Waxoyl.

 

Wouldn't go mad on an old car spending hundreds on top quality rustproofer. No doubt it's good but Waxoyl will do the job. It's all in the preparation!!

 

 

waxoyl is really old hat and the hammerite stuff isn't even half way as good as the old Finnegans stuff was.

 

At Vatcan and epoxy mastic aren't that expensive in the grander scheme of things.  

 

 

 

I got my anti-corrosion protection advice from someone who studied engineering at Uni and went on to work for a company that specialised in metal protection in high stress and weathered areas.

 

He used to do a load of work on the corrosion protection at Sellafield, so is pretty clued up on what works and what doesn't

 

He left to start his own Vintage and Hotrod/Historic race car shop in Northamptonshire

[dollywobbler]

Another vote for Vactan. It's the favourite for me having tried other rust converters. I'm using Bilt Hamber's Dynax UB for underside sections on the S-MX and RAV, with Dynax S-50 for the cavities. Rubbing back any obvious rust is a good idea, get all the loose stuff off, then get the Vactan on.

[sierraman]

I'm only going on experience. Apart from what's already been there I've not had to do welding on cars I've had that I've treated.

 

Ideally you want something with a flexible waxy property that cures when stone chips hit it. You shouldn't need to pump it into every orifice though these days, you find cars only really rot in 3 or 4 places, ends of sills, rear arches, spring hangers etc. Hardly any cars these days rot the middle of the floors out or the boot floor.

 

Get plenty on the brake lines and fuel feed to the tank.

[dollywobbler]

I dunno. I've seen a lot of rot on rear crossmembers and also the main strengthening rail seams underneath. You really want to get it on a ramp if you can. I had a go at the S-MX on the ground, but was astonished at what I'd missed once it was properly up in the air. Cleverly, I took a can of Dynax UB with me when I had the track rod ends fitted, so I was able to give it a good blasting while it was in the air. I like the Bilt Hamber stuff, as it mostly goes where you want it rather than all over you, the ramp etc.

[sierraman]

Having said that I had a Fiesta Mk4 once that rotted the bulkhead and floor out. That was rotten when I bought it though... so no surprises there!

[mercrocker]

The brushable Dynax (it comes in a paint tin) is good stuff.   Vactan on the brown stuff, leave 24 hours then go mad with the Dynax.  Make sure any peeling old stuff is well scraped back, though.....

[320touring]

Excellent info chaps! Now i just need to get it done:)

[sierraman]

Tip here, go in wilkinsons and get an 85p garden sprayer. Let whatever you are spraying down with some white spirits 30%. Shake it up once it's sat in hot water for 10 minutes then spray it on liberally onto brake pipes, arches, sills.

 

Try not to get it on suspension bushes, apparently it fucks them up. Ditto brakes, exhaust, shockers etc...

[gordonbennet]

Another vote for Bilt Hambersanti rust  preparations,  not cheap but is so nice to apply compared to waxoyl (with waxoyl i found the best method was to chuck the first batch over your head then you didn't worry too much about getting plastered bit by bit) and so accurate that it works out about the same price.

[320touring]

So this

 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121025597300

 

Plus this

 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172096375719

 

Is FTW?

[lexi]

Phosphoric acid from chemical supplier. Then whatever you can afford.  I used the Vactan years ago....no better than the acid and more expensive. Did all those milky converters like Kurust....not up to much. I think they are only phos acid with some latex in it.

   Bodyline cavity wax from Brown Bros, much better than waxoyl and not silly price.Need a schutz gun for it, less you brush it on.  I have done some quicko protection on shite motors with bitumen primer Blackjack after the acid. You can Shutz over it once cured. 

[Dermist]

As a left field approach to this, I'm using corroless on the dedra.

Used on oil rigs in the main. Dermist senior has used it with great success in the past.

It has to be applied to bare metal where it converts any rust and creates and resin finish.

 

Then apply stone chip over the top.

 

It's available through eBay from a shop in Lancaster ish way.

[Alusilber]

Just read an eBay listing for Vactan.... says it starts off milky white, then turns rust blue-black. So it's the same stuff as Kurust then?

[Vince70]

I've been using boiled linseed oil mixed with white Spirit on my cars in an old cleaning spray bottle mixed about 50/50 and it's good at getting into nooks and crannies when its thinned down,

It can also be applied with a rag on large areas such as sills quickly and is cheap at around £3 a bottle.

 

It works a treat plus your lungs feel better for it rather than using those spray waxes and has been used as a rust protector for centuries.

 

The only down side is it takes a couple of days to dry also you can use it on plastics as a cleaner and it brings old grey plastic up as good as new in no time.

[lexi]

I've been using boiled linseed oil mixed with white Spirit on my cars in an old cleaning spray bottle mixed about 50/50 and it's good at getting into nooks and crannies when its thinned down,

It can also be applied with a rag on large areas such as sills quickly and is cheap at around £3 a bottle.

 

It works a treat plus your lungs feel better for it rather than using those spray waxes and has been used as a rust protector for centuries.

 

The only down side is it takes a couple of days to dry also you can use it on plastics as a cleaner and it brings old grey plastic up as good as new in no time.

 

  You are on the money with that.  I have tried it with candle wax melted into white spirit, then mixed with doubled boiled linseed. 

     Brilliant stuff.

[lexi]

Just read an eBay listing for Vactan.... says it starts off milky white, then turns rust blue-black. So it's the same stuff as Kurust then?

 

 No, it's not the same. The Vactan is a brown liquid, better than Kurust imo.  Far better and cheaper with Phosphoric acid or Citric acid.  You can add a little wall paper paste to thicken and hold it on to steep areas.

[Bobthebeard]

ACF 50. Expensive but works. The bottles that come with a pump action spray is much better than the aerosol cans as the cans are too foamy and not as good for precise applications. A little goes a long way and creeps into the rust impressively. Have used the stuff for years and it just does the job.

[320touring]

Vactan has been bought..

 

 

Not dobI go Dynax or Epoxy Mastic 121??

[castros_bro]

Here's an unbiased AFC50, and others, test looking like a 1970s Lancia Beta before and after ad.

 

 

 

http://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html

[gordonbennet]

Never tried ACF50 before, and was wondering what i could spray over the odd light patches of surface rust under the Landcruiser we bought last week...cos its to cold for a proper Bilt Hambering and the bastard salts already down so all i can do is wash the underside down and after letting it dry spray summat on for the winter.

 

So Castros_bro thanks for that link, i've ordered some of the stuff and going to give it a try.