Inevitability

[purplebargeken]

The name of your little Daf's paint is Kabina White IIRC

[MarvinsMom]

may i ask how much?

[wuvvum]

Micro update:

 

The boot lock responded almost immediately to a squirt of 3 in 1 oil, and now works perfectly.

 

I was thinking about the air filter situation last night and discovered that the inside of a Tesco Value bog roll is almost exactly the same diameter as the carb mouth.  It didn't quite work out as I intended as the carb and air filter are not quite in line, but nevertheless with the aid of a strip of gaffer tape and some cable ties, I now have a temporary* fix.

 

 

Less than ideal, obvs, but a lot better than nowt, especially given the amount of crap on the Norfolk back roads in this harvest season.  The small gap between filter and carb means the relative lack of structural rigidity of a Tesco Value toilet roll tube isn't an issue, and it appears to be reasonably airtight - putting my hand over the air filter inlet made the engine bog down, which I took to be a good sign.

[purplebargeken]

For the Project Volvo 66? I think around 500 pounds which includes all the missing bits. The interior is minty mint though. 

[wuvvum]

The DAF had its first full-on FTP today.  It started first time as usual, got 50 yards up the road and then died and showed no interest in restarting.  Investigations revealed that no fuel was getting to the carb.  Pulling the inlet pipe off the fuel pump and sucking produced little more than gurgling sounds and lots of vapour, which made me cough. 

 

The fuel gauge was reading about 1/3 of a tank, but it did occur to me that I had no idea how accurate the gauge was, so I chucked another gallon in, but it made no difference.  I eventually got it going again using another gallon in a can balanced on the offside inner wing, and a length of fuel line nicked from the Volvo - which proved that the fuel pump is working fine.

 

So it's either the line from the tank to the engine bay which has split, or something has gone wrong with the pick-up in the tank.  The pipe in the engine bay appears to be fine, but it then disappears into the chassis rail, ne'er more to be seen until it re-emerges somewhere above the rubber bands.  The last few inches onto the carb and the first few inches from the tank are "normal" rubber petrol hose, but the rest of it is thin translucent plastic pipe - which, if it's the original, is probably getting rather brittle after 44 years, especially now it's being subjected to modern fuels.

 

I'm going to have to drop the tank either way (thankfully it's only held on by four bolts and it's slung out way behind the back suspension) - I'm initially going to try replacing just the first bit of rubber hose, as it looks fairly ancient, but if that doesn't work I'll just run a separate line under the car all the way from the tank to the carb.  I'm hoping it's not the in-tank pick-up which has fallen to bits as I have no idea how difficult that would be to get to, but my guess would be "quite",

 

I did, however, grease up the driver's door catch, which has made the door a lot easier to open and shut.  Whilst it was on the ramps I also removed the plastic cover from the transmission (an arsehole of a job in itself as it necessitated dropping the exhaust to get the thing out).  This revealed that none of the vacuum pipes have gone AWOL, although again the rubber pipes are looking slightly perished (and at least one of them is soft enough that I'd be dubious about its ability to hold much of a vacuum), so I might replace those anyway.  The other thing I'm wondering about is the vacuum block thingy under the bonnet - it has four pipes going to it, two are the ones to the pulleys, one goes to the inlet manifold, but the other goes to the air cleaner - I'm not sure what the purpose of that one is, but I'm wondering whether the fact that no air is being drawn through the filter housing (I had to sacrifice my bog-roll-tube-and-gaffer-tape pipe when I was trying to get the car going again) could be affecting anything?

[Eddie Honda]

I wouldn't run a long run of rubber fuel hose from end to end as all modern fuel hose is shit.

 

The nylon pipe that runs the main length of the car should be fine. It's the same on Volvo 300s. It's be a bit yellow, rather than white, if you're hell bent on replacing it, PM an address and I'll send you some. But it's the rubber that dies on its arse rather than the nylon, even with modern fuels.

 

fuelpipe by E Honda, on Flickr

 

1 is fuel hose from nylon pipe to pump.

2 is a clip

3 is the nylon pipe

4 is a grommet

5 is a bit of rubber that goes round the nylon for protection.

6 is a bit of rubber round the pipe (a body tab holds it to car)

7 is a bit of aluminium that holds the nylon in a 90 degree bend.

8 is fuel hose from nylon pipe to fuel tank sender/pick-up.

 

There's also a nylon line from pump to carb:

p3190040 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

Pump can be weak. Had a shagged pump that would run a car, but couldn't prime the system if left for a couple of days. An Xmas trip had fuel starvation around 50mph which got worse and packed up completely. Luckily I was able to rob another pump from my other car to complete that week. The nylon line runs inside the nearside transmission cooling ducting. (What you can also see here is the blanking plate on the block where the mechanical pump was. I binned it on that car and put an electric Facet cube thing at the rear)

 

You have an atmospheric supply. It doesn't need to be from the air cleaner, a small filter directly attached to the stub will do. Fresh vacuum hose is squidgy as it isn't reinforced, it will hold a vacuum and it won't need clips.

 

VarioValve.jpg by E Honda, on Flickr

 

Schematic for the vacuum system:

 

DAF 66 Vacuum System Schematic by E Honda, on Flickr

 

A Mityvac would be useful in actually testing for leaks, and cheap than the Volvo Special Tool:

 

DSCF3286 by E Honda, on Flickr

DSCF3289 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

 

[MarvinsMom]

if the car has been stood at spondon for god knows how long, could there be crap in the fuel tank blocking up the tank sender?

[wuvvum]

That's some kerwolity info there Eddie H, cheers for that.

 

I'm not quite 100% on the vacuum system diagram though.  I can figure out the pipes, and I'm assuming the wires from A go to the microswitch (which I think is working on my car as the idle speed rises when I press the brake pedal), but what is the purpose of the relay that is connected to B?

 

As regards fuelling, it may well be 8 that is shagged then - 1 is fairly new and is intact as far as I can tell.  I don't think the pump is knackered as it was pulling fuel up from a jerry can on the ground quite easily.  I pulled the pipe off the pump and sucked on it and I was mainly getting vapour, with very little fuel coming through at all, so I reckon it's the pipe somewhere that has sprung an air leak rather than the pump, and 8 looks the most likely culprit - I'll replace that first..  The nylon pipe from pump to carb looks fine - although I did notice that the rubber hose on the manifold end of the vacuum advance pipe has split, so that'll be getting replaced too.

[320touring]

fucking hell Eddie- top write up:)

[beko1987]

I have learned something today! And I didn't even need to

[wuvvum]

if the car has been stood at spondon for god knows how long, could there be crap in the fuel tank blocking up the tank sender?

I did consider that, but then I would have thought that sucking on the fuel pipe would get nothing at all, rather than air?

[Eddie Honda]

I'll do an explanation on the vacuum system later, but first dry weather means some fixing outside....

[wuvvum]

Small DAF update. 

 

The tailgate apparently leaks quite badly in heavy rain, to the extent that there was something of a pond forming in the boot liner this morning after it pissed it down all day yesterday.  Thankfully the liner is plastic so I just lifted it out and emptied it over the car park, but Mrs. Leverill's flowery boot carpet also got a bit damp so that's been hung up to dry.  I don't know if it's the seal itself that is no longer doing its job or if the water is getting in somewhere else it shouldn't - didn't have time to do a full investigation today, but I'll have a proper look tomorrow as now the car is living outside (for perhaps the first time in its life), a leaky boot isn't going to do it a lot of good.

 

Changing the bulb in the side repeater is proving to be a bit of a pain in the arse.  I eventually managed to persuade the bulb holder out from inside the front wing - or at least most of it.  Part of it - and the bulb - stayed inside the indicator.  Trying to grab it out from behind with pliers just resulted in more flakes coming off.  So I had to prise the indicator away from the wing (which was only possible as one of the two retaining bolts had snapped) and then persude the remains of the bulb holder out with a screwdriver.  I'll nip to the motor factor's in the morning to see if I can get a new bulb holder.

 

On a more positive note, it's now running off the tank again - this still needs further investigation at some point as it's still not quite right, but I drove to Tesco and back this evening with no issues.  I've been struggling to find the correct rubber hose to connect the air cleaner to the carb, so I've ordered it a cone filter as a temporary measure.

[vulgalour]

If you didn't have a 6 to keep this company I'd be envious of all that engine bay space.  This little DAF seems to be relatively headache free thus far, which is nice.

[wuvvum]

More DAF fettling took place today.  Had a more thorough poke around the vacuum pipes underneath the car, and they all look intact - slightly perished, but not enough to make them leak.  The larger-diameter hose that runs from the inlet manifold to the vacuum doobery had a hard section at the manifold end and seemed like a slightly loose fit, so I snipped the hard bit off and refitted the hose, but it hasn't made any difference.  I'm beginning to think the problem must be in the pulleys themselves, possibly knackered diaphragms.  I don't know how easy replacements are to get hold of.

 

I managed to get the driver's side washer jet working briefly by poking it with a pin, but it soon blocked up again, so I suspect there may be crap in the pipe.  Helpfully you can't actually get to the pipe as it runs up behind the bulkhead, so a job for tomorrow is to try and prise the washer jet out of the scuttle without damaging the paint, which could be fun.  I also still need to get a bulb holder for the side repeater - I didn't get time today.

 

I mentioned before that the rubber bit on the manifold end of the vacuum advance pipe had split, and I wasn't convinced that it was making an airtight connection any more.  I'd nipped down to Roys of Wroxham to buy a couple of wiper blades for the Rover, and they had a brake bleed pipe which looked about the same diameter as the vacuum pipe - I hadn't thought to take the old pipe with me, but for £1.49 I thought it was worth a punt.  It turned out to be absolutely spot on (although it's bright orange so looks a bit incongruous under the bonnet), so I snipped off a two-inch length and refitted the vacuum pipe.  It's transformed the running of the car.  It now pulls smoothly and without spluttering with the choke fully in, and acceleration is way better than it was - in fact up to about 40 I would now describe it as nippy.  Now if I could only sort the transmission issue it'd be mechanically bob on.

[Eddie Honda]

Knackered diaphragms a common thing with 66s. Take the two hoses off the bottom of the 4 way vac valve. Blow into either. Resistance should be felt, if what you're blowing in comes out the other pipe, they're fooled.

They are available, exchange. http://www.dafhobby.nl/

[vulgalour]

It's a Dutch car, bright orange is about as appropriate a colour as you can put on it really.

[wuvvum]

Knackered diaphragms a common thing with 66s. Take the two hoses off the bottom of the 4 way vac valve. Blow into either. Resistance should be felt, if what you're blowing in comes out the other pipe, they're fooled.

 

They are available, exchange. www.dafhobby.com

Well I tried this today, and whilst there was some resistance, there was also definitely air coming out of the opposite tube.  I assume that means the diaphragms have gone then.  Unfortunately that dafhobby.com site seems to just be a holding site at the moment.

 

Didn't get a great deal done on the DAF today - I refitted the plastic transmission undertray, which was an arsehole of a job, and I pulled out the driver's side screen wash jet for investigation - it is indeed quite badly clogged with muck, so as a temporary* solution I bought a universal jet and some new tubing.  The jet is black plastic so doesn't look quite right but does at least have the merit of working.  So that's one of the MOT jobs ticked off.  I couldn't find a bulb holder for the side repeater though, so I've had to order one off ebay.

 

Also the shiny new air filter arrived in the post today, so I fitted it - it's a cheapo jobbie but still probably better than the bog roll tube.  Getting the original air cleaner out was a bit of a faff though.

 

[Eddie Honda]

Unfortunately that dafhobby.com site seems to just be a holding site at the moment.

 

http://www.dafhobby.nl/daf_produkt.php?idnr=645&title=used%20membrane%20%20DAF46/66/Volvo%2066/340CVT

 

My mishstake, link corrected now I'm on desktop. http://www.dafhobby.nl/ Also http://www.dcnwebshop.nl/ (for DCN members ), but it'll give you an idea) and for common with V300 parts http://www.born-built-beauties.eu/ (Robbert-Jan is a top bloke)

 

Probably look like this:

 

Primary Unit Diaphragms Perished by E Honda, on Flickr

 

Weights can go wobbly too (look at top left pivot pin, missing clip)

 

Primary Unit Internals NS 002 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

Don't pull a Primary unit apart without making a load of balance marks. They spin fast those drums.

 

Last Primary I worked on, a previous tinkerer had made a few errors. The support rings for the diaphragms were the wrong side of the diaphragm, therefore zero vacuum action:

 

IMG_20150422_195732_744 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

(I was told they followed the BoL to the letter. Might of helped if they made some notes/pics dismantling, unless of course the person before put it together wrong).

 

IMG_20150424_155138_702 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

Also, I spotted this with the vacuum pump. A tiny nick in a "new" membrane, possibly where someone had slipped with a screwdriver. They don't have to be perfectly vacuum sealed, but there is a loss rate of less than 300mmH2O per minute to be within spec (1 inHg/min). Luckily it was a case of getting the bicycle puncture repair kit on it.

 

While I think about it, these can split and be leaky at the bottom. If the bottoms are fine, a new seal can be knocked into the top cup of them.

 

Primary Unit Internal Vacumm Seal by E Honda, on Flickr

 

Going back to the side indicator repeaters, the originals were "Rolos" is shape:

 

Pre Repair Condition 007 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

The nearest current replacements that are a direct swap have a flatter profile and have a concave middle. They are the same as Fiat 500 IIRC.

 

[vulgalour]

You're a man that'll know this, but is the DAF rad interchangeable with the 6?  Chompy pointed out that it looks to be the same/similar engine in both cars.

[Eddie Honda]

I'm not totally familiar with the R6 though.

 

Here's some pics to guide you though.

 

D55:

 

D66:

 

V300 B14 earlyish:

 

If you look back to my earlier pics, I had a re-cored rad and had the fan ring removed. I also had a temp sender boss fitted as the intention was to run an electric fan. Never happened before it got nicked/totalled.

[wuvvum]

Vulg, engine is the same, but in a slightly higher state of tune in the Daf (53bhp as opposed to 48).  I'll have a look at the Renault 6 rad later to see if they look similar.

 

EH, thanks for the info.  That diaphragm replacement malarkey looks a bit intimidating though.   I'd be pretty much guaranteed to screw it up and have to take everything to bits again I reckon.

 

I'm hoping to keep the original side repeater unit - it's only the bulb holder that slides into the unit that has disintegrated.  I've bought a tapered push fit holder which I'm hoping will fit - if not I'm sure I can cobble something together.

[vulgalour]

Rads are different looking at Eddie's pictures there.  Not so different it would be impossible to swap if a DAF one was easier to get hold, but definitely different.

[Eddie Honda]

if a DAF one was easier to get hold

HHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAA HAA HAAA HAAA!

 

Cannot you not just get a cheapy from an R4?

[RayMK]

Rads are different looking at Eddie's pictures there.  Not so different it would be impossible to swap if a DAF one was easier to get hold, but definitely different.

 

Probably no help, but when my wife put our first Stellar in a ditch and punctured the rad, I fitted a Volvo 66 radiator with little difficulty and cooling was fine.  My current Stellar has a Ford Capri radiator.  Just measure yours, note the position and size of the inlet and outlet and buy something similar or obtain something suitable from a scrapyard (check that it isn't too full of scale).   

 

Regarding the DAF transmission innards, my Volvo 66 failed on the multi legged spring, resulting in gear ratio conflict and some tortured belt noises. Two of the legs had fractured at the rivet holes (see Eddie Honda's post 112, 2nd picture). It was surprisingly easy to replace but not too easy to find the replacement part - and that was in the late 1980s.

[Eddie Honda]

Regarding the DAF transmission innards, my Volvo 66 failed on the multi legged spring

Had that before too. Fingers broken on the diaphragm spring.

 

Changing the rubbery diaphragms isn't too bad a job and if you don't mind being upside-down, it can be done with the transmission still in the car.

 

If you want to take just the primary out, you can support the secondary with...

 

DSCF7740 by E Honda, on Flickr

 

...a suitable length of wood resting on the rear springs.

[wuvvum]

I prefer the sound of that - I don't like removing major components if I can avoid it...

 

Are the pulley assemblys fitted together at the factory and then balanced as a unit?  If each individual part was balanced separately before being assembled I wouldn't've thought it'd matter if they're put back together in the same position?

[Eddie Honda]

The unit is balanced as an assembly. If you want one rebalanced then it's a trip to NL.

 

The primary is about 36kg. The secondary about 38kg. It's a bit of an arse jacking the primary back into place as you also have to get the input shaft onto the prop amongst other things.

[wuvvum]

The DAF now has two working side repeaters - the replacement bulb holder arrived on Saturday and turned out to be a perfect fit in the repeater fitting - only difference being that, being made of rubber, it's necessarily a two-wire job rather than the original single wire setup, but this was easily remedied by running a wire through the hole in the inner wing and straight onto the battery negative terminal - bit of a bodge but it works.  I'm going to treat it to a new passenger side wiper blade as the one on there is a bit smeary, then once the Rover and the Toyota are done I'll stick it in for a test - I can't immediately see owt else it needs, although MOT man may well know better.