Reliant Rialto

[oldcars]

Thanks again Ray. 

[bub2006]

Yes, technically if the starter shaft has a fast, chunky spiral 'throw' which, on starter rotation, kicks the cog in to mesh with the flywheel - that is the Bendix device. Later starters are of the pre-engaged type i.e. the starter drive cog is pushed in to mesh with the flywheel by a meaty solenoid and lever prior to rotation. People do still refer to the lever and drive bit as a Bendix, even though it isn't. Good luck. Sounds eminently fixable but you won't have to attack it immediately as it is starting mostly ok.

I believe his is an early rialto so will be Ben did and not pre engaged. I can't remember what year change over was though?

[plasticvandan]

1984 was the change over

[bub2006]

Cheers dan

[oldcars]

Parked this up over the weekend. Moved it this morning and brakes were seized on. Fine now after a run. Parked with handbrake off and in gear. New pads and cylinders in Feb. Should this happen? 

[dollywobbler]

Starlet did that the other day, just because it's so sodding damp.

[oldcars]

Starlet did that the other day, just because it's so sodding damp.

Cheers, i hoped so. 

[oldcars]

This has been working away fine for a few months. It has developed a rumbling when dropping down to second gear and braking to turn a corner. I think it may be one of the rear engine mounts, i replaced the front ones a few years back but not the rear. Its due an oil change so will do that next week and have a look at the mounts. I also want to grease the propshaft, not sure if mine has grease nipples or not on it.

[Split_Pin]

Glad to see this is still going well, I was wondering how things were with it.

[oldcars]

Driving this today and i don;t think the vibration is the engine mount. It only happens in second gear, not when accelerating only when slowing or not on the accelerator. Could it be the propshaft, as the vibration seems to come from this area? If so what would cause it? No oil leaks that i can see but the joint part on the propshaft looks a but rusty and dry, i was planning on greasing it next week anyway.

[davehedgehog31]

Prop shafts sometimes have weights welded to them in order to balance them, has it perhaps jettisoned these? I'm not sure that would be consistent with the conditions you've described it happening in though. 

[RayMK]

If the propshaft UJs look dry and rusty then it is possible that the bearings are past their best and some parts may have partially seized.  On the over-run in second gear the braking effect can be quite strong and the axle may rotate slightly (and naturally) as the engine braking takes effect.  The engine may also move on its mountings for similar reasons. These effects will cause the propshaft and its UJs to adopt slightly different angles i.e. doing its job, but if the UJs are worn or damaged the new position can cause such vibration.  Greasing the UJs could ease the problem if you can catch the degradation in time.  Otherwise, a good second hand propshaft would be the way I'd go.  Rebuilding UJs is too damned fiddly for me  .

 

PS.  If the propshaft has a sliding joint, make sure it is not seized and of course grease that as well.

[oldcars]

If the propshaft UJs look dry and rusty then it is possible that the bearings are past their best and some parts may have partially seized.  On the over-run in second gear the braking effect can be quite strong and the axle may rotate slightly (and naturally) as the engine braking takes effect.  The engine may also move on its mountings for similar reasons. These effects will cause the propshaft and its UJs to adopt slightly different angles i.e. doing its job, but if the UJs are worn or damaged the new position can cause such vibration.  Greasing the UJs could ease the problem if you can catch the degradation in time.  Otherwise, a good second hand propshaft would be the way I'd go.  Rebuilding UJs is too damned fiddly for me  .

 

PS.  If the propshaft has a sliding joint, make sure it is not seized and of course grease that as well.

Thanks Ray. I am going to get a good look at it next week. I will check it all over, grease the UJ's and check the mounts. I believe some UJ's on the Reliants have grease nipples and others don't.

[RayMK]

Yes, sometimes if after-market nipples have been fitted they foul the UJs and thus have to be fitted for greasing then removed before rotating the shaft. I confess to having no experience of propshaft greasing on Robins or Rialtos, only Regals.

[oldcars]

I will look at the haynes manual, hopefully that will help see what needs to be done. Have you managed out in the Regal with the nice weather?

[RayMK]

I will look at the haynes manual, hopefully that will help see what needs to be done. Have you managed out in the Regal with the nice weather?

 

I have not driven it since last June!!  It is a major exercise getting it out of my garage as it is blocked in by my mobility scooter - which I noticed the other day has a puncture,  and needs cars shifting out of the way outside.  I'm fit enough to drive it now but should really give it a good checkover before going far in it.  I may dig it out and get its MOT renewed soon.  It qualifies for MOT exemption, however it's easier to have an MOT man check it over than me getting it up on ramps and jacks.

[oldcars]

I have not driven it since last June!!  It is a major exercise getting it out of my garage as it is blocked in by my mobility scooter - which I noticed the other day has a puncture,  and needs cars shifting out of the way outside.  I'm fit enough to drive it now but should really give it a good checkover before going far in it.  I may dig it out and get its MOT renewed soon.  It qualifies for MOT exemption, however it's easier to have an MOT man check it over than me getting it up on ramps and jacks.

Glad to hear your fit to drive it. I hope you can get it out this year, lovely old car.

Will keep you updated on how i get on with mine.

[plasticvandan]

check the sliding prop joint for wear,does sound luike a rumbling UJ.an access panel cut into the tunnel behind the centre console makes life a LOT easier

[oldcars]

Cheers, will get a look when i'm changing the oil next week. 

[Zelandeth]

Sounds very like what my Lada Niva used to do to tell me I'd forgotten that the sliding joint on the rear propshaft needed grease. Horrible rumbling - but only at very specific speeds, and only under exactly the right amount of load.

 

Confused me for a while as I couldn't find the grease nipple because some sod had snapped it off. I thought the bearings in the rear diff were going!

 

Give them a good grease every few months and it never came back.

 

Have noted that there's a total lack of any grease nipples on the Riva though...so will be new UJ time when it gets noisy. Garage can have that job thanks, it's enough of a faff with the right tools and a ramp!

[oldcars]

Sounds very like what my Lada Niva used to do to tell me I'd forgotten that the sliding joint on the rear propshaft needed grease. Horrible rumbling - but only at very specific speeds, and only under exactly the right amount of load.

 

Confused me for a while as I couldn't find the grease nipple because some sod had snapped it off. I thought the bearings in the rear diff were going!

 

Give them a good grease every few months and it never came back.

 

Have noted that there's a total lack of any grease nipples on the Riva though...so will be new UJ time when it gets noisy. Garage can have that job thanks, it's enough of a faff with the right tools and a ramp!

What you have said is the same as i am experiencing on the Rialto. Time to dig the grease gun out. I only have a grease gun for a mountain bike, need to see if i can use that.

[plasticvandan]

You should be greasing the kingpin fairly regularly as well so I would get one soon

[oldcars]

Yes i need to get one asap. Looked at the UJ last night and it has a grease nipple on it. The rumbling is getting worse by the day. What grease gun do i need to get?

[plasticvandan]

i use something like this:

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/grease-guns/lg500-500cc-grease-gun/p/ZT1002042X?utm_campaign=pla-Hand+Tools+-+&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping-pla&utm_keyword=ZT1002042X&istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istItemId=wtqitawpwr&istBid=tztx&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz-LPx-m-2wIVzLXtCh3-ZgurEAQYASABEgKPE_D_BwE

 

i used to grease the prop and kingpin every couple of months when i was dailying.

[Mally]

You need to remove the prop to check the joints properly, not too easy to get the front bolts out IIRC.

Check the joints rock in each direction smoothly and there is no side play.

Not too difficult to change u/j's when you have done a few, but you need a vice, emery, circlip pliers and patience.

If there is no play, no nipples, but they are a bit sticky, standing the ends in a bucket of old engine oil overnight can work wonders sometimes.

[oldcars]

Had a look at this at the weekend. I'm banned from attempting to fix stuff from now on. I'm sort on time and short on experience. My pal who passed away helped me out, and since his passing everything i touch is a waste of time. Going to run this until it goes bang, which won't be long.

[Mally]

I knew someone with a Hillman Minx.

His prop joint broke at the axle end.

Almost turned the car over.

[oldcars]

Its all solid, looked yesterday looks like gearbox as there is play in that where the prop connects.

[oldcars]

The odd vibration stopped for a while but now its are back along with an engine knock. Read haynes manual and it could be many things. Idle is very high, going to try and look at that this weekend. See if that helps anything, if not i will park it up until money allows me to get it fixed properly. That could be some time indeed.

[plasticvandan]

Check your engine mounts