Talk to me about rustproofing...

[tooSavvy]

There has been long debate about FREE/SumpDump oil... being full of water/acid-in-suspension.

 

Poondland oil [new] is likely more safe, as a mixin with anything else.

 

TS

[sierraman]

It's a question of budget I suppose at the shite end of the market. £20 gets you 5 litres of waxoyl, you would be talking 5 times that for equivalent Bilt Hamber.

[overrun]

Depends how long you plan to keep the car, too, imo.

 

You may as well submerge the car in the ocean, at sill height, if you are going to use Waxoyl.

[stripped fred]

I was really impressed with the bilt hamber products. Easy to use and you know you are using quality products but yes they are pricey. I wouldn't hesitate on a car I intended to keep for a while.

[barefoot]

Chap my old man used to work with had a Rover P4 and every year when he serviced his car, he'd pour the old engine oil into holes he'd drilled for the purpose into the pillars, the sills, all the box sections he could access.

Chap was an aero engineer and eliminated a wind whistle from the top of the a pillar with a blob of plasticine that he spent some weeks adjusting the shape of.

Well, the P4 went on and on and on until one day it was sideswiped as it was driven out onto the main road.

The old car practically burst. It lay there dying in the biggest puddle of oil since the Torry Canyon!

The stain can still be seen if you know where to look and the owner has been dead a decade.

[inconsistant]

I'm convinced by all the love for Bilt Hamber stuff for pumping into my lovely newly welded up sills, so I'm assuming an aerosol with a lance is what I need, but having had a quick man-look at their website I can't work out the difference between Dynax S50, UB and UC. Clues: car's a keeper, would like to do a the best job of it I can.

Any thoughts which is the best/most appropriate from experience? 

[mat_the_cat]

S50 is for the inside of box sections, as it's designed for penetrating seams rather than provide impact resistance, and not UV resistant. It's a soft (supposedly self healing), brown waxy film. UB is a harder brown wax which is for the external surfaces of the body where you won't see it. Needs a few coats for complete coverage. UC is an almost clear wax, which you use on visible areas like wheel arch lips, wing flanges under the bonnet, outer sills etc. I also use it for spraying between spot welded seams in visible areas, to stop water getting between the layers and on zinc plated stuff to keep that from corroding.

[Bear]

There's nothing wrong with Waxoyl for the money. It depends on if you want to spray and forget, actively look after the car, or just make it survive a couple of winters longer.

 

I use clear waxoyl, heated and blown into seams with a hairdryer (and I just got an airgun for it, though the prats at the shop sold me the wrong sodding adaptor for the disconnects despite my buying the lead from them at the same time!). I know it's not apply and forget for 20 years - I anticipate washing the underbonnet treatment off the SLK next summer and reapplying, as it holds all the muck.

[mercrocker]

S50 is for the inside of box sections, as it's designed for penetrating seams rather than provide impact resistance, and not UV resistant. It's a soft (supposedly self healing), brown waxy film. UB is a harder brown wax which is for the external surfaces of the body where you won't see it. Needs a few coats for complete coverage. UC is an almost clear wax, which you use on visible areas like wheel arch lips, wing flanges under the bonnet, outer sills etc. I also use it for spraying between spot welded seams in visible areas, to stop water getting between the layers and on zinc plated stuff to keep that from corroding.

 

There is also a brush-on UB which I have had immense fun* coating the undersides of the Morris 1000 with.   Needs 2 coats apparently (and 2 tins...) but it goes on nicely - if I remember to I will report back with my next Springtime inspection findings.....

[Honey Badger]

I think of waxoyl as the placebo of the rustproofing world, it makes you think you are stopping the rot so it must be better, when in reality your maybe keeping it at bay for a couple of months before it starts allowing water through again.

 

If you're going to go to the trouble of trying to rust proof a car then the extra cost of immeasurably better products vs the amount of time it takes you to apply it makes it a real no brainer. If you only have a snotter you want to last through winter then why bother treating it at all.

 

I've used Waxoyl myself in the past and it's shitty stuff but it was all that was easily available at the time, now with the stuff from Bilt Hambler, Rust.co.uk and Dinitrol being easy to get hold off I cant see a reason fro using it anymore unless you enjoys the unique aroma of it in your hair, on your clothes, on the drive basically everywhere but on the bloody car.