sierraman Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Focus drivebelt is squealing or making a slipping type noise when cold. The belt is the original and is 13 years old with 115k under its belt. Needless to say for sake of £15 I'm going to change this. Do these belts stretch over the course of time to cause the squealing or is it the friction causing the smooth surface to glaze? sierraman 1
twosmoke300 Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Is it a diseasel? Ford diesels have always had drive belt noise issues but using a gates brand belt is best .Also check if it has a one way pulley on the alternator . These seize up and don't slip in one direction as they should and this causes mucho squeaking
Richard Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 What is the thinking behind freewheel alternator pulleys?
castros_bro Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Some modern Foad engines like the Zetec SE, Duratec, Sigma have an "elastic" drive belt so there is not method to mechanically tension them, a special set of bent metal tools are needed to fit the new belt over the groovy pullys in a complete and utter baastard finger tip removal of a shit job. The belts (based on a sample of two) lose their elacticness as they age the same as knicker elastic so they should be changed or your knickers will fall down.
twosmoke300 Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Free wheel pulleys help stop the belt noise on modern diesels . It's caused by the massive crank speed variation at idle ( big bangs compared to a si engine ) Richard and mat_the_cat 2
sierraman Posted March 24, 2015 Author Posted March 24, 2015 No its the 1.6 Zetec SE engine petrol. Bought a new belt to fit this week. I've changed the idler pulley at the top as this was where the noise was coming from, changed it but no difference made. Pulley was cheap so no loss. Hoping it wasn't the tensioner which hides impossibly down the back of the engine, the 3 bolts to take the unit off look a right swine.
cros Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Some modern Foad engines like the Zetec SE, Duratec, Sigma have an "elastic" drive belt so there is not method to mechanically tension them, a special set of bent metal tools are needed to fit the new belt over the groovy pullys in a complete and utter baastard finger tip removal of a shit job. The belts (based on a sample of two) lose their elacticness as they age the same as knicker elastic so they should be changed or your knickers will fall down.You learn something that's absolutely fucking rediculous every day. saucedoctor and HH-R 2
alf892 Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Apart from the actual bearing going tensioners can go sticky and then don't keep the belt tight enough hence squeak. Drop the belt off and makes sure it is nice and springy through its range
RayMK Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 Getting 115K out of drive belts is good. My Volvo 66's used to manage 50K. derskine and Sigmund Fraud 2
red5 Posted March 24, 2015 Posted March 24, 2015 As noted - get underneath and check tensioner - probably find it's seized/partially seized. And yes, bit of a pig to get to.
sierraman Posted April 5, 2015 Author Posted April 5, 2015 Did this job. Sorted problem out, lost skin, about a pint of blood and some fingernail doing this however. JohnK 1
bigfella2 Posted April 5, 2015 Posted April 5, 2015 What did you do to cure it. Did you change the belt? Every time I have experienced a noisy belt, replacement always cured it. Never changed a pulley yet, but as above 115k is pretty good.
willswitchengage Posted April 6, 2015 Posted April 6, 2015 Goodyear markets the 'Gatorback' belt, meant to be quieter for some science reason. Looks different
sierraman Posted April 9, 2015 Author Posted April 9, 2015 Moved the tensioner in and out dozen times or so might have helped. The old belt I took off was fraction longer, maybe half inch or so, I can only presume it stretched over the past 115k or 13 years. Real fucker to get on as per, trick is to put belt on all the pulleys except to water pump, then retract the tensioner, and slide it on. Practically impossible otherwise. Next job is the exhaust flex, comes with the manifold, choice of the full manifold and flex for approx £50-60 or just the flex for £30 whereby you cut the old manifold downpipe and graft the flex on with a shit load of paste and a clamp. Think ill go for the entire manifold then...
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