Down to my last used Jonny. Only the Anglia 105E left.

[jonny69]

Jonny69... How you getting on with your Ami-6 ?  No news is I hope good news.

 

p.s. Sorry I didn't set out to poach your topic.. would you like me / us to just  P_ _ _ OFF  and start another thread !?

 

Peter

 

Quite the opposite. There's a lot of good information here so I've changed the title and edited the first post

 

I got a new 6V battery from Moss. Amazing quality battery and I'm really impressed with it. I had it turning over and firing last week but not sustained running. I think there was a blocked jet so I partially stripped the carb and gave it a good lube because everything had got a bit tight and sticky. Sunday afternoon I got it to run properly!

 

 

Took some pics around the car too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next jobs are to get the seatbelts bolted back in and give it a quick once-over to check everything is ready for the MOT. Got a slight blow on the exhaust joint at the front which shouldn't be too difficult to fix. Everything seems to work so it's not far off.

[spartacus]

Innuendo Award goes to 'Jonny69', for "gave it a good lube because everything had got a bit tight and sticky".

Well done!

[meshking]

Spoke to James Walsh from Practical Classics the other day.He has a RHD Ami which will be for sale as a spares car very soon.I only had a quick look around and it's going to be a brave restororation or more likely, as James said, good for spares.The floors are rotted out, the driver's door pillar is rooten and there are even holes on the edges of the roof.

I'll try and steer him this way if you like.

Thank you, I was tempted to pop a cheeky bid on that. Sounds like you've just saved my bacon.

 

Sent from my SGP621 using Tapatalk

[Bfg]

Darn Jonny that car of yours simply oooozes with character ...inside and out !  Brilliant that you have her home and now running.  Looking forward to you getting the bugs (literally) brushed out and then 'jonny69's Back to Back Road Test'  and/or the children's story book

 

Bloody fantastic

 

"sort of evolved into a general discussion about flimsy-bodied Citroen Ami's ! ?

[Bfg]

It mght be that my plans to drive down to Slovenia and commence recomissioning the Ami_Super next month have been snookered by winter tyre requirements in the countries I pass through, Germany and Austria in particular have mandatories in place at least until mid-April.  I need to check my Chrysler's tyres for all season markings in the morning.

 

Going down the length of France and across Italy would avoid these.., but even then I'll need snow chains. Extra expense / tasks to do / junk in the car that's never used... wasn't what I was  looking for !

[jonny69]

What's the plan, to stick it on a trailer on the back of the Chrysler?

[Bfg]

No, the plan was to carry tools and spares down to Slovenia and, for two weeks visit, to use the van as a mobile workshop.  

 

Going a little off topic here but.. phew, I'm OK on three of my tyres. The fourth is on the boardline 4mm requirement for Austrian law, so ought to be changed. I don't have snow chains but I'll do a search this evening on the internet for some to to fit my 215/65 R16 tyres.

From the AA :
For France, Germany, & Austria where Snow chains must be carried : "Snow chains must be fitted on at least two drive wheels. In any country Snow chains may only be used where there's sufficient snow covering to avoid any possibility of damage to the road surface. A fine may be imposed if damage is caused."

For Austria : "All vehicles driving on snow covered roads must have winter tyres (or all-season tyres marked M+S / mud and snow) during the winter season (from 1 November to 15 April) and if roads have a covering of snow, slush or ice outside these dates. Tyres must have a minimum tread depth of 4mm."

For Germany : "Germany introduced regulations in 2010 requiring all passenger cars and motorbikes including vehicles from foreign countries to be fitted with winter tyres or all season tyres on all axles when conditions are wintry. Winter tyres (or 'all season' tyres) should bear the mark M+S or the snowflake symbol on the side wall."

For Slovenia : "Snow chains must be carried between 15 November and 15 March (and at other times under winter weather conditions) by private cars and vehicles up to 3.5 tonnes unless the vehicle is fitted with four winter tyres marked M&S. Minimum tyre tread depth for use in winter weather conditions is 3mm."
http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/overseas/snow-chains-winter-tyres.html


From the RAC :
"Specific countries where snow chains must be carried and used where signs dictate in mountainous regions include: France, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, Norway, Italy, Austria and Andorra.

The use of snow chains is taken very seriously in relevant countries, with heavy fines potentially issued for failing to carry them. In addition, if your vehicle is involved in an incident where snow chains should have been used, it is automatically considered to be your fault. To be on the safe side, you should always carry snow chains when visiting the countries outlined above and use them wherever and whenever necessary.

Only use snow chains when the road surface is covered in snow or ice. If you try to use chains on a road that has been cleared of snow and gritted, you risk damaging the road surface and your vehicle. Snow chains can be difficult to fit and remove. Don’t just buy new snow chains, throw them in the boot and forget all about them until you are half way up a mountain somewhere in France. Make sure you practice fitting them at home"

and..
Continental Tyres claims "a vehicle fitted with winter tyres will come to a standstill on a snow-covered (from a speed of 30mph) after 35 metres. However with ‘normal’ tyres, the braking distance required is a 43 metres – a further eight metres, or two car lengths."

and..
"It is important to know that winter tyres must be fitted in sets of four only. Fitting only one pair of snow tyres will affect the balance and stability of the car."

Germany : Winter tyres – COMPULSORY. Germany introduced regulations in 2010 requiring all passenger cars and motorbikes to be fitted with winter tyres or all season tyres on all axles in wintry conditions. Snow chains – REQUIRED (should be carried and used as dictated by local signs or road conditions. Reduced speed limits may apply).

Austria : Winter tyres – MANDATORY. Between 1 November and 15 April, and at times outside these dates when there is snow, slush or ice on the roads. Minimum tread depth is 4mm. Snow chains – REQUIRED (should be carried and used as dictated by local signs or road conditions. Reduced speed limits may apply).
http://www.rac.co.uk/travel/driving-abroad/driving-abroad-in-winter

 

Hope that's helpful to others. With the mild weather we had (in Suffolk at least) though this 'winter' - I'd not have considered November 1st to be winter, nor as late as mid April. Wintery conditions include 'slush' which if taken literally might be a just few snow flakes on otherwise wet roads. Winter tyres are for temperatures below +7 degrees.

[Bfg]

Think I might have stumbled across a solution.

 

Needing to get car parts like clutch assembly and brake callipers, wheel cylinders, gaskets, and a whole lot of other recommissioning bits + garage hand & power tools.., down to Slovenia was getting out of hand. Clearly with that weight I couldn't catch a cheap flight. So I resolved to drive down. I've done it a few times before so not such a big issue, but for the time and cost..  (exchange rate GBP to Euro is crap while the politicians fart around with this referendum)

 

Needing to buy snow chains + another tyre + £150 for ferries + Vignettes + retrun trip of 2000plus miles in fuel + days of travel + food + hotel if it's too cold to sleep in the car...  Damn the trip was becoming a project in its own right.!

 

So, I considered the option of catching high-speed trains ...and even an overnight sleeper. < http://www.seat61.com/Slovenia.htm#London%20to%20Ljubljana >  Where the only limit on baggage is what you can drag behind you   .. Seemed like a plan, but as I checked luggage limitations I spotted a link to LuggageMule < https://www.luggagemule.co.uk/ >

 

Checking this website out, followed by call to their office ; I can send 30kg of  'luggage' in advance (it's collected from my own doorstep and taken right the way to where the car is in Slovenia) ...and back again for £75.  They deal with customs and of course, being luggage - they do their darnest to get it there unbattered and on time (this being different to most courriers). It's not a giveaway price, but even with an easyjet flight - it's very much cheaper than my driving down.

 

Heck, whether I'm travelling by plane, car, or motorcycle.. the single thing I dislike most is handling the bloody luggage. Sending it ahead might even make travelling with a woman a pleasure again 

[spartacus]

"Sending it ahead might even make travelling with a woman a pleasure again"

 

 

No... Probably not.

Proper adventure though, travelling on a sleeper train through Europe having sent the tools and spares on ahead, just the right mix of uncertainty going on there, I envy you!

[Bfg]

"Proper adventure though, travelling on a sleeper train through Europe having sent the tools and spares on ahead, just the right mix of uncertainty going on there, I envy you!"

 

On this occassion I'm cheating.  I've booked to fly down early on the 13th March & return evening of the 30th (easyjet £150 with reserved seating and 20kg of luggage) + £63 airport parking - so then I'll have just hours rather than days travelling & 18 days in Slovenia.  I'll send 30kg of parts & tools ahead (& returned thereafter) for another £100 (with £500 insurance).

 

However I'd agree.., the train journey does sound like it could be pretty fantastic.  Got to do it at least once in a lifetime.  Eurotrain to Paris, then the high speed or sleeper train down to Turin, around the Alps (..very scenic) and over to Trieste, where my buddy will pick me up.  I reckon the one way trip down to collect the car, which I'll then hopefully enjoy driving back via a convoluted route in May or June would seem an opportune occassion. 

 

In the meantime.., new parts have started arriving in the post, so it's like Shitroen Ami's Christmas here.

[spartacus]

I still can't knock it, if I had the money and time, (usual shit excuses), I'd love to do something like that. In my world you're living a dream!

[Bfg]

At times it seems darn frustrating, and a lot of long hours to get things pulling together, and then what seems to me to be a whole bundle of money.. But you're right .. it's not bad.. Not bad at all

 

Mind you, to put this in perspective ; Up until last last July I honestly couldn't remember when I'd previously had 'a real holiday'. Sure, a day or two off here and there but mostly work, demands, and the unachievable.  I've lived a weary lifetime of never seeming to have spare money for such things as 'taking a holiday' or to 'buy a new' anything, or even to buy something already restored (and finished !).  The interesting and exciting 'projects' I took on ..repeatedly got out of hand, became a frustration and another 'problem' backpiled up, one on top of each other, until it all became overwhelming..  All in all : Lots of fantastic hopes and aspirations - but nothing ever got really finished, and nothing ever became as nice as it ought to have been (never enough money !). 

 

Then, I said "STOP !  Don't buy something else ..unless what I no longer want  (or can deal with) is sold first..  2. no more than two projects on the go at any one time".  And.. 3. at the same time I started (step by step) to work towards selling up and a minimalistic lifestyle (which freed up the money and a little time to do what I'm now doing).  In short '3' is say saying bollocks to living my life as our society would have me do.. 

 

For the first time in many, many years I now allow myself to think about doing things.., just for the simple pleasure of doing so, and then to not be in so much a rush doing it.   I'm really just too tired to continue running my life through a never-shortening list of deadlines. . . . Yeah, I've presently still got a thousand things to unravel myself from, but I'm also just starting to realise the prospect of actually being able to move out of the jungle into open savannah..  

 

I can only hope you begin to see the light soon yourself.

 

Pete

 

p.s. Crap.., now I'm really getting off  this 'ere Shitroen thread

[forddeliveryboy]

Pete, before you attempt to pressure up the kingpins with grease after years of nothing happening, heat up the whole area with a blowtorch even if it's a hot day - gentle flame, but give it a couple or three minutes to allow the heat to soak through the mass of metal.

 

Playing the flame around the bottom of the pin area means it doesn't get close to the rubber boot on the driveshaft, but the heat will rise nicely through the pin and bushes. Just don't overdo it and have the wheel bearing grease melting out! Even the cruddiest old kingpin grease will be displaced by the new as if it's warm butter, no popped plugs and a good, even distribution of new grease.

 

Just watch for a leaky fuel line before you light up, that would make it all a bit memorable. If the kingpins/bushes have minimal wear then it's just possible they're ancient or even original, with phosphor bronze bushes for a life of 50,000 miles and the rest.

[dollywobbler]

^^^ I had to do this with the Dyane, though I'm still struggling a bit. Might need a new nipple, though it has been pointed out I can nab a working nipple from another part of the car just to get the grease in nicely...

[Bfg]

forddeliveryboy "before you attempt to pressure up the kingpins with grease after years of nothing happening, heat up the whole area with a blowtorch even if it's a hot day - gentle flame, but give it a couple or three minutes to allow the heat to soak through the mass of metal.

 

...Playing the flame around the bottom of the pin area means it doesn't get close to the rubber boot on the driveshaft, but the heat will rise nicely through the pin and bushes. Just don't overdo it and have the wheel bearing grease melting out! Even the cruddiest old kingpin grease will be displaced by the new as if it's warm butter, no popped plugs and a good, even distribution of new grease".

 

oh I like that   A few Great Tips like that can change a man's life ! 

 

"If the kingpins/bushes have minimal wear then it's just possible they're ancient or even original, with phosphor bronze bushes for a life of 50,000 miles and the rest."  Wouldn't that be fantastic ! ..I'll keep digits crossed and let you know in due course if I'm that fortunate. 

 

My interpretation of this advice then is : If there's not undue slack in the king-pins and the heated grease strategy works - then they'd be no need to dismantle them to thoroughly clean them out, and then regrease ?   That'll be a very worthwhile task saver..

 

And perhaps something very worthwhile that might be scheduled into the maintenance routine every few years.

 

Might I enquire.. Do the swinging arm and wheel bearings have grease nipples too ?  If so do you think the above would work equally as well on them, or is it only used for greased spindles ?

 

"Might need a new nipple, though it has been pointed out I can nab a working nipple from another part of the car just to get the grease in nicely"  .. another useful tip. 

 

Removing and cleaning.. with a little heat assist, might restore the nipple.

 

Thank you both

 

note to myself : pack the blowtorch  (...buy a gas refill when I get there !)

12,189 views

[forddeliveryboy]

Bfg, how many miles has the car covered? If it had the original pins and bushes that'd be a turn up! It's usually the top bush which wears first, since it's a bit undersized. But I've seen original pins with pb bushes with a worn pin and ok bushes - in which case check for tolerance with a new pin and leave the bushes where they are, just clean everything fastidiously and make sure the sealing plug seals. Grease once a month when in use.

 

Grease in the wheelarm bearings may have dried out or a seal or two may have deteriorated, but it's not something I'd be panicking about in the beginning unless you've the time to do everything else and those. 200,000 miles could be considered their useful life without maintenance, infinite life if you cba to remove and regrease every 150k. No nipples, but it's possible to remove the massive threaded ring/seal and examine for grease, regreasing as necessary.

 

Be aware the quality of those arms and bearings is nothing like what the company used on mid-late 80s 2cvs and you'd struggle to find any more at a sensible price, so don't go exchanging stuff willy-nilly. Same with all the other mechanical bits. The arms are subtley different (bump stops and tie rod attchment location), as they are on other A-series variants, just more so on a Super.

 

 

 

Wow, that's some quality work right there.

 

Glad its back but a shame this Dez fella clearly doesn't give a shit. 

 

 

My experience of big structural work on old Cits is that it's either done on time but doesn't last and at the next (bigger) rebuild turns out to have been done badly, or is done superbly but is never 100% finished without prodding of the manwivrilskillz.

 

Hope you manage to enjoy the car jonny and the unfinished work/delays getting it back haven't soured its appeal for you.

[Bfg]

"how many miles has the car covered?"  48,849 Km on the clock (approx 30353 miles) although the instruments are renown for under-reading +/- 5%.    Unfortunately, the car has numerous snowboard and ski-resort stickers around it so I suspect that a younger person owned the car.. which probably means it wasn't serviced very often, if at all !  I would be amazed if the king-pins are any good.

 

I was certainly aware the rear arms have a narrower track than the 2cv & Dyane, and I was told its wheel bearings are a tad more beefy than the AMi 8.  The rear shoes are 180 x 35mm wide, but I see these also being sold for the 2cv, which I thought had 30mm wide shoes, but perhaps that was just for the earlier (1970's) cars.  I can only guess that knife-edges may be slightly different because of the bigger springs, and I can only assume the dampers are more beefy too. Then of course the Super had anti-roll bars front and rear.  I didn't know the bump stops were different as well.

 

Sounds like you know these cars from direct experience. Thanks for your very useful advice. Again I'll print it out and add it to my workshop manual.

 

Regarding, older restorations..  I must admit that I was rather surprised reading Dollywobbler's thread on this and other forums. That not so many years after body restoration, and then less again since the car was subsequently resprayed (2006) .. the poor old thing was in a desperate state again.  Certainly, the car's very high mileage  isn't helping (when does he find the time to work on so many cars ?) nor indeed is budget ownership, but still I would have hoped modern materials and a reputable restorer would have protected his car's flimsy-body for a lot longer.  

 

Dez certainly seemed, from the photos presented, to be doing a good job, but I fear if such carelessness is now evident, and he was not keen to work on the car anyway.., then it's probable that long term future 'protection' wasn't at the forefront of his mind. 

 

"Hope you manage to enjoy the car jonny and the unfinished work/delays getting it back haven't soured its appeal for you".  I'll second that..

[forddeliveryboy]

Exactly, is the new steel in anything more than an etching primer coat, I wonder? Spattered glass/a few scratches with which to remember the rebuild by is one thing, but good structural work which will rot out because there's been no pressure injection and correct coats of stonechip and schutz is a waste. 

 

Citroën altered the knife edge distance from the centre of arm rotation to adjust the leverage factor by the spring on the rears, not sure where this was on the Super. They'll be made of thicker steel, but just as relevant is the steel quality. I've swapped rear arms on a nasty late 2cv which felt like the structure was made of damp cardboard, replacing them with 70s Dyane ones and the car was transformed through corners (down to grade of steel and alignment).

 

They played around with bump stops since it's an easy and cheap way of tuning suspension. Some time around 1980 they shifted the arms stops so they connected with the rubber blocks on the chassis much sooner, reducing roll and making the cars feel 'sharper'. Not so long after (given the massive long production run of A-series), material and build quality took a final plunge and the famed handling was gone forever. 

[Bfg]

For those following Jonny69's / this 'ere excellent thread..(12,621 views to date)  I'll just advise : I've started a new one re. my own (beige) Yugoslavian Ami-8-super.  As this car is (I hope) just about to happen - I thought it only fair to blog in my own outbuilding.

< http://autoshite.com/topic/23665-yugoslavian-ami-continuing-on-from-now-autoshites-flimsy-bodied-shitroen/?p=944666 >

 

Perhaps jonny's been quiet recently simply because he can't get a word in edgeways. My sincere apologies if that's the case.., but also my thanks for your hospitality.. 

 

Still, I look forward to his, and others with autoshite-flimsy-bodied-Shitroens here, to keep us up-to-date with their continued exploits.

 

So.., How you getting on with your '6' jonny ?? 

 

Pete

[Bfg]

Jonny, might I enquire here in public gaze, or via a private PM if you prefer, what sort of hours did Dez book for the work on your Ami-6 ?  I've read that your '6' went in on to Dez on  24th Jan 15 and was due for collection weekend of 17th Oct = 267 days (excluding weekends) or 38 weeks, but I know he couldn't have been working on it for that long. !

 

 

I only asking because I'm looking at at an estimate for not dissimilar work on my horribly beige super.  And although I can see there's a lot of work in it, it's still more costly than I expected. 

 

The tasks I'm looking to have done on my car is to then have a good, solid, reliable 'driver', which will not dissolve after a year of use. ie..

 

1. to lift the body off, and to replace with new the lower bulkhead, front floors, and possibly sills, and to locally patch any other areas which might have perforated or fraying at the edges (inner rear wheel arches and boot floor support brace as examples). The car is from a dry climate and so the body tub's not in bad shape, but it is 40+ years old and Yugoslav built..

2. While the body is off ; the (specialist in A-series) workshop will clean the underside of the body tub, they'll prime the undersides and PU seal the seams, and then spray with rubberised stone chip. No further painting by the shop.  No work by them to the bolt-on wings, front inner arches, nose panels, nor do any work on the doors)

 

3. They'll clean and remove chassis sub-assemblies and service those (the brakes, king-pins and suspension, but not the steering), and repaint them in black chassis paint.

4. They'll clean, repair where necessary the (ami-super) chassis (including removing sections of the top or bottom skins - as required for inner web repair) and then make good, and repaint with chassis paint.

Other than to clean and remove them for access to the chassis, they'll NOT do any work to the engine, gearbox, front brakes, steering, the electrics, &/or ancillary parts, etc.

5. Then they'll reassemble.

The low down is :  labour / hours to deal with any body rust, to clean & protect it underneath (no upper panel or outside paintwork included), to clean, repair & paint the chassis with chassis paint, likewise sub assemblies, and to service the suspension parts, brakes, king-pins, wheel & axle bearings - as required. 

How many 8hr days or 40hr weeks work do you or others reckon in that ?

NB. I'll then take the car to a specialist service to have it wax-oil injected.

[jonny69]

I've not had a chance to do anything else on mine yet. Pretty sure I just need to replace a bolt on the dynamo bracket (an annoying M7 size though) and bolt the seatbelts back in and it should be ready to MOT. Do I need sidelights for an MOT? It's got them on the switch but it doesn't seem to have them on the outside.

 

I think you can do most of the work on these without taking them off the chassis, but access to the panels around the petrol tank and where the suspension tubes are seem to be quite obscured.

 

I can't remember exactly how long Dez spent on the car but we agreed a final price and I paid the last bit up front. I think was about 6 weeks of his actual time in total. He works quite fast when he's actually doing it but he gets distracted on other projects and with his own stuff, then, because mine over-ran a bit, you can see how it ended up taking so long.

[dollywobbler]

Pretty sure you will need sidelights. Hopefully just a connection issue. On the Dyane, sidelight position gives me sidelights and dipped beam, because FRENCH.

[forddeliveryboy]

It used to be French traffic law to have sidelights on in towns and cities, flashing dipped beams on approaching a junction (V for Ville). Out in the sticks (R for Route), you ran on high beam or low beam, again required to flash the lights from one to the other on approaching a junction to warn other traffic. I've been in North African countries where this practice continues, it works well where there's not a lot on the roads, it's even seen occasionally in the more remote areas of Southern France.

 

And yes, the sidelights need to be working for an MoT pass.

[Bfg]

Saw this and thought it worth sharing with you chaps.. 

 

 

The thought of rallying the Ami-6 with what...18 bhp is just wonderful..

 

Aside from 2cv racing each other - can anyone share more A-series competition photos / links / tidbits / success stories / anecdotes ?

 

...other great photos of various marques to delight : http://forums.codemasters.com/discussion/5818/dirt-rally-which-cars-would-you-like-to-see-make-it-into-the-game/p9

 

And again..

courtesy of : http://luciencrapez.canalblog.com/archives/2009/05/09/13667597.html

 

" All to make a nice Rally

 

Citroen Ami-6 #087  followed by 2CV #060.  Here's proof that even in 1962, the man in the street could still participate in a renowned rally with his car every day. This edition of the 11th winter rally of the Lions was a mini 'car show' with ; GT Aston Martin DB4, Fiat 500, AC Bristol,  Renault R4, Fiat Abarth, NSU, DB, ID19, Austin Cooper, 2CV and Ami 6 .. the spectators had a wide choice.

 

J.Querard H. Gentil and the crew of the Ami 6 .. were the last year's winners (category 2 and 2nd overall) of the previous event in an Alfa Romeo ... In this event - they will end at 27th overall in Ami 6. A beautiful performance."

[barrett]

Sidelights - take your headlamp bulbs out and have a look at them. They should have a circular hole in the plate, this is for the sidelights to shine through... only Amis (I'm sure other cars too, but in the Citroen range) used this stupid system so an equivalent 6v 2cv bulb won't work because they don't have the hole. Typically 99 per cent of bulbs you find nowdays are 2cv ones... Iirc they don't make a modern version with the holes in either

[barrett]

You can just about see it in this rubbish photo. It's not actually circular, it's that sort of sausage shaped slot.

[jonny69]

Ok, it does have sidelights and they do work. Thanks to Barrett for messaging me that pic because this took a lot of head scratching. The reason they didn't 'work' was the headlight bulbs were in upside down. Thus the filaments were upside down, thus the stalk had to be in the wrong position for high/low beam. I thought they looked a bit bright on low beam for 6V lights... Anyway, now it clicks correctly on the switch from sidelight to dipped beam, then between low and high beam if the stalk is moved fore/aft.

[dollywobbler]

Ok, it does have sidelights and they do work. Thanks to Barrett for messaging me that pic because this took a lot of head scratching. The reason they didn't 'work' was the headlight bulbs were in upside down. Thus the filaments were upside down, thus the stalk had to be in the wrong position for high/low beam. I thought they looked a bit bright on low beam for 6V lights... Anyway, now it clicks correctly on the switch from sidelight to dipped beam, then between low and high beam if the stalk is moved fore/aft.

 

It is confusing. Not many cars have two different stalk positions for dipped beam. Just to confirm - V up is sidelights, down (ie away from you) is dipped beam. R up is main beam, down is dipped beam. Thought I'd mention it as other might be baffled by it too!

[jonny69]

The stalk has got 0-V-R on the rocker. With the stalk pulled towards me it goes from off to sidelights to high beam. With it away from me it drops them to dipped beam in both V and R positions.

 

Now I've re-read what you said it makes more sense. It does what you said, basically*.

 

Stupid French lolwtflightswitch.

[barrett]

So why isn't it MoT'd yet????????