purplebargeken Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 Don't think that the coils have a specific habit of going bleh, might just be time for it to be replaced like any other coil based item.
Pillock Posted January 3, 2015 Author Posted January 3, 2015 Whilst it's still working, the rules are "don't mess". Coil and leads are next, even it it turns out not to need them I don't see the harm in throwing a few new parts at it every so often. Might be the placebo effect but it seems to go better with just the cap and arm. Also didn't have the hiccup it always had around 100yards from the garage, first time you give it a bit of mild right foot.
Taff Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 hi-jacked thread alert. How hard is it to change the power steering/column on these? Absolute piece of piss or surgery need to add U/Js to both elbows & wrists?
Barry Cade Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 It's a POP. Easy enough to fit PAS to non PAS too.
Pillock Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 ^^^ WHS. Glad I could help. Since the thread has bubbled to the top, newest news is that as demonstrated at the last Cannock meet, the starter engages slightly less than is ideal. It spins, but sounds like it's not throwing the coggy bit out (stop me if I get too techy) sometimes so there's all manner of grating and grinding before it catches. Hours of looking at forums have let me to believe that this means either The battery is too ill to spin the starter with enough gustoThe starter shaft is gunkyAll the teeth have fallen off the flywheel I'm hoping one or two, so I'll be off to raid the F in Looms for a starter, and pick up a battery whilst there. If it turns out to be just gunky, I'll sell the starter on at MASSIVE PROFIT.
Taff Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251811265657?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT not far from me, and could do the 50 mile round trip to work fairly easily. WCPGW? (I'm off to see it tomorrow. Looks like the midlife crisis is back on)
Pillock Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 Oooh, a VVC.Back window looks rubbish although might be condensation. If it's gone opaque, £75 postal replacement. They're a hoot to drive, if you can grab that cheap and fix it then you're onto a winner. I don't find non-pas an issue at all, it's heavy but only if you steer like a lazy person. Keep it rolling and it's fine.
purplebargeken Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Taff, if you win it I have a spare steering wheel in the garage with the MG badge in full colour. Much nicer than the black one. Yours if you wish it.
Taff Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Taff, if you win it I have a spare steering wheel in the garage with the MG badge in full colour. Much nicer than the black one. Yours if you wish it. I'm off to view it tomorrow. A bit of me hopes that the fact that the PS is goosed will put off lesser men than I
Taff Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Oooh, a VVC.Back window looks rubbish although might be condensation. If it's gone opaque, £75 postal replacement. They're a hoot to drive, if you can grab that cheap and fix it then you're onto a winner. I don't find non-pas an issue at all, it's heavy but only if you steer like a lazy person. Keep it rolling and it's fine. driveable without the PS? as in, can it be driven with the electric PS not working? I'm not going to fuck it up any further?
Barry Cade Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Yup, the PAS is just an assisted collumn, so reverts to normal if not working. Many hardy types fit a switch to turn it off to get a workout in Lidl's car park. Taff 1
Pillock Posted February 9, 2015 Author Posted February 9, 2015 Starter motor. Best way in? I took the one off a MGZR absolutely fine, it was down at the front and the head was off (aren't they all?) so three bolts and wiggle it off.Some bellend however has put the engine in the MG F back-to-front. Well, right way around actually but the car is on back to front. Sort of. Essentially, I can't even see the bloody starter motor let alone get to the fixings from above. Should I: a) take all the crap off that's above it, but that looks like the clutch slave and some brakey stuff and that'll all need bleedin' bleeding, or go at it from underneath? This is a problem in itself, I've parked the thing against a wall and if I roll it out the garage I can't get it back in without a working starter. I suppose I could rig up some sort of ramp affair to keep the car level as the ground drops off away from the garage, but that seems a bit heath robinson. How would a competent mechanic approach the starter on the F? I'll start from there and put my own spin on it.
Taff Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 Speaking with all the wealth and depth of knowledge that 4 days ownership brings, can I just say that I haven't a clue? Is it hidden by the undertray?
Pillock Posted February 9, 2015 Author Posted February 9, 2015 Can't you go and take the starter off yours and report back how you did it? Taff 1
Station Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 Have you taken the engine cover off (behind the seats)? Starter motor was really easy. In fact, I found the MGF to be really easy to do any work on. Barry Cade 1
Pillock Posted February 11, 2015 Author Posted February 11, 2015 Yes I have, but the only light was being provided by my Astra parked six foot away. I left the cover off, so in about ten minutes I'll scoot up there with my new* battery, see if that makes it all work, and then have another look for the starter. I'm sure it's under the clutch Gubbins though.
Pillock Posted February 14, 2015 Author Posted February 14, 2015 Right. New battery fitted, starter now spins like a demon possessed..... But still intermittently it just Whirrs, doesn't engage with the flywheel. Turn key again and it starts. So it's not a low voltage issue, it's a buggered starter (or flywheel, but let's ignore that option) At least now I can get it moving, I can get it out of the garage, up on ramps, moved around to make it easier. I'll take the old one off, look at it like I know what I'm looking for, then ask questions again. Also took the back window out as it now has two cracks in, and the transparency of jizm. Most of the rivets just pulled out which was handy, I don't have a battery drill. I can now send it to someone who will put a new clear window in, and maybe I'll be a bit more diligent about unzipping the screen before dropping the hood.
purplebargeken Posted February 15, 2015 Posted February 15, 2015 I became much more diligent about unzipping the rear screen after I cracked the first one on a very cold day.
Pillock Posted February 15, 2015 Author Posted February 15, 2015 I never thought plastic could go from being "look at me, I'm all flexy" to "screw you, I shall crack and split!" in the space of 10° of ambient temperature. I'll probably also fit some of those stretchy bands to the centre hoop that stop it jamming, because they're cheap and fix the problem. I'd rather not wait till I've holed the hood to get around to it. beko1987 1
purplebargeken Posted February 15, 2015 Posted February 15, 2015 Those stretchy things make a huge difference, but only in relation to physically lowering and raising the hood. They really do make it a one handed affair. They won't make a blind bit of difference to the screen unzipping need. There are two types of stretchy thing, one with 2 metal rods, or one with velcro. Go with the rod type. A bit of a faff to fit but better all round once done.
Pillock Posted February 15, 2015 Author Posted February 15, 2015 Yeah, sorry my ADD kicked in (yo) and I was flitting from one train of thought to another. Oooh, squirrels. Hadn't seen the rod type. I'll go hunting. Cheers
Pillock Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 Got one bolt out (eventually) from the starter motor. The second one is being a PROPER TWAT. Two hours, no knuckles left, twatty twat. I think I need a massive long breaker bar but I can just see me shearing something. Pah. Currently soaking in penetrating fluid.
Pillock Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 Also, how is it passing emissions like this?
Pillock Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 Got longest breaker bar, not enough room to swing it. Took wheel off to get at 15mm bolt the other side, it needs two long extensions to get in through the wheelarch and I've only got one and a short one. Now it's dark and I'm annoyed that its taken all day to get one fucking bolt out!
Barry Cade Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 Also, how is it passing emissions like this?The exhaust is off a TF which had 2 Lambda's =pre and post cat. The MGF only needs the pre cat Lambda. If you look you'll see the vaccum operated noisy flap thingy too. TF's have round tailpipes and F's oval.
Pillock Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 Cool, mystery solved cheers vaccum operated noisy flap thingyReminds me of a girl I used to know. Jim Bell and Inspector Morose 2
Pillock Posted February 22, 2015 Author Posted February 22, 2015 OK, so I've been and purchased enough tools to cobble together to get the starter motor off, by going in through the wheelarch. Three extensions and a long socket, plus a breaker bar soon* had it off. (You'll remember that this is a job I started last week, and technically in that time I've removed two bolts in total) Now the starter isn't mashed up, it's not missing teeth, and aside from a healthy coating of dust it seems OK. The shaft isn't grotty. If I spin the little coggy wheel one way, it freewheels and if I spin it the other way, it doesn't. If I push it hard enough, it moves out along the shaft - and I can also move the cog along the shaft by levering it out with a screwdriver. Essentially, it doesn't seem knackered. When a new one from Euro Wrong Parts is £79, I don't want to just wang it on regardless - a scrapyard one is £20 but is an unknown quantity. Is there any way to test the one I have? If I hook it up with jump leads, screw terminal to + and body to - on a charged battery, will touching the only other spade terminal make it fire up?
Pillock Posted March 1, 2015 Author Posted March 1, 2015 On an offchance, I cleaned the old starter up - contacts, shaft etc. Stuck it back in which thankfully didn't take another three weeks to accomplish, exactly the same as before. Spins without engaging sometimes, other times fires the motor straight up.New* starter ordered from ebay, pick it up from Argos later this week - at least this time I know what I'm doing so it'll be a few minutes rather than weeks.
Pillock Posted March 2, 2015 Author Posted March 2, 2015 I should, it's a giggle to drive when it starts. I just fear turning it back off until it's in the garage. I reckon once the starter is sorted and the new rear window is in, it needs a road trip and then perhaps it's time to move it on
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