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No gameshow Bin or buy anymore. more tinker time with added renault teaser


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Posted

Back for a wee update,

I trial fitted ancillaries and conected engine to box to see if everything mated without much problem, everything looked good enough so time to order a new clutch,

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Now onto the sump and time to stick it back onto the engine stand and whip the sump off.

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then I had to remove old gasket from the face for a good seal so I used this bladed scraper as it makes it an easy job,

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after some more cleaning I started to see something strange so got out the thinners and a rag and scrubbed the mating surfaces, whats that strange marking down the bottom left side above the oil pump? 

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 a bit of archaeology later so lets take a closer look shall we WTF?

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After a strange find like that which I have never come across even after pulling to bits loads of engines I got back to the job in hand, 

The modified sump and pick up pipe, I was going to do it myself but since this didn't cost much I thought it better to use my time up on more time consuming matters,

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and after a new sump gasket and a smidge blue hylomar job done,

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pause for breath

Posted

More goodies delivered then and fitted, I've never used a clutch alignment tool I just fit pressure plate with the bolts lightly tightened and set it by eye before tightening, never failed yet.

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Engine lowered into the hole and then fitted the new starter LHD one doesn't fit,

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decided to raid the spares bin yet again and pop the four branch on instead of the cast manifold,  not much room in there now,

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then time to fit the carb manifold.

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After fitting the master cylinder I fitted the previously made brake pipes and now the brakes are ready for bleeding at a later date.

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update again later.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So more goodies delivered time for an update,  electronic magic to light up these chavy gold plugs,

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It was then time to feed the engine bay wiring back into the engine bay, plenty of masking tape labels to make life easier on the refit, I fed the loom round and under the battery tray and it all went together better than expected, as the loom is upside down I need to find the two indicator wires and swap them or it will cause mayhem on the roads.  

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Then onto the alternator and another problem arises, the split adjuster that slides in the back hole decided to split the alloy tab off when I tried to adjust it to fit the bracket, I was just about to throw out some curse words when I thought I would check the cross flow one, bingo its nearly the same just mounts to the other side of the engine block.

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Posted

Time to strip the alternator.

Out came the trusty impact gun to remove the spindle nut and the pulley and fan, I wish the manufacturers used hex bolts to bolt the alternator together instead of slotted heads as it would make life easier, I resort to the old screwdriver and an adjustable spanner to break them free after soaking with wd40, then after talking nicely to them they simply fall out ish.

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out comes the copper mallet and a few swift blows has the front section off ready for the swap, then move onto alternator number two and do the same.

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time for rebuild with correct mounting not forgetting the woodruff key or all hell will break free when the alternator tries to throw some electricity at the battery,

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refit pulley and job done simples

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bingo bongo it now fits so onto the next job.

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  • Like 2
Posted

More new bits delivered and ready to fit and a whole lot easier than trying to source individual hoses one at a time.

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And some of this heat wrap which I always vowed never to try again after a serious incident which saw an xr2 manifold exit the garage through the window prior to opening.  

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I didn't stop to take pics as I just got my head down and used all live brain cells to complete the job this time, I started at the top and after winding the heat wrap followed it down with wire,

After winding I then tie wired it both at the top and bottom with potato bag ties then it was a straight forward fit to the car,

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I must have mellowed with age as it did seem easier and with less temper this time.

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Time for a new toy,

I have fancied one of these for yonks but always talked myself out of it due to my inner stinginess shining,

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first jack car up remove wheel and fit the hub mount, then fit the curved part with two pins and R clips.

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Let jack down and repeat with the rear wheel and bolt cross bar in place. don't panic I removed the bonnet of the roof first.

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Jack up opposite side as high as possible then I enlisted the help of the misses and pushed it over, a couple of axle stands under the short cross bars and job done,

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Posted

In the last picture you can just see that the fuel line and the exhaust both run on the wrong sides so this was the reason for hauling the old gal on its side,

I started by bolting the prop shaft back in place then moved onto the exhaust, I hung it with wire to get it sitting in a decent place with plenty clearance, even though it was from a two litre scrote it just didn't fit without some modification,

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After tacking it in place I removed it again and full welded before refitting to the car.

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the fuel line was a doddle as all the clips easily removed and where reusable, I ran the pipe down the axle tunnel and along the passenger side chassis leg using all original clips with the addition of two cable ties for good measure.

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After a couple of exhaust clamps the car was ready to come back down to earth,

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The car tilter is fairly well balanced and with a small amount of effort the axle stands can be removed then its a simple gentle roll back down onto its wheels, I don't think I could do it myself with as much control but I may try it on this old blingo next.

 

Posted

Like the new toy, every shiter should have one.

Posted

Like the new toy, every shiter should have one.

 

I agree and wish I had bought it years ago now that I've used one, I have a part share in a lift but its 15 miles away so this will hopefully end up a better tool.

Posted

Now that I had the exhaust on and pretty much everything to make it run I thought it was about time to start it for the first time, a bit of petrol in the tank a check for none pouring out and a few turns to fill the carb the engine burst into life and sat at tick over,  a quick couple of squirts of throttle the crisp sounding engine was shut of as I had not fitted the rad yet. 

The slam panel was sitting flush with the cooling fan so there was no way a radiator would fit, a quick measure up and out came the grinder,

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the silicone hoses did not fit this radiator so I pulled out the hose box of many breakers and knocked up a couple of hoses and stuck the rad in its hole, balls the bottom hose fouls the fan belt dam drat and shit, two steps forward one back.

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Back to the stores and I what I think is a Cortina rad is the same width just a little longer so that will do nicely,

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I cut of the front mounting tabs as the rad now has to sit inside the housing rather than in front, then welded them onto the back side.

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Then it sat inside the front panel perfectly until you look down at the bottom rad hose shitsticks it fowls due to the 90 degree outlet.

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Posted

That roll over thing looks really useful I've never seen that before. The car looks great

Posted

Since I had already chopped the rad and had nothing to loose I got his out and set to the outlet pipe,

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I heated it until I saw a bit of smoke rising then with pliers a quick twist and out it popped,

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I then did the same to the rad with the 90 degree bend.

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Time to clean up ready for the refit,

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Plenty of flux then back to the fire gun,

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Fitted it back in the car and now all the silicone hoses fit so filled with plain water first and now the car can be ran up to temp without worry although it doesn't rise much on the gauge.

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Posted

Another update if no one is bored shitless by my slaverin

 

It was time to haul its ass up in the air so I could bleed the brakes,

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Off with the wheels and plenty wd40 sprayed on the three bleed nipples before attempting loosening.post-3747-0-27355300-1437677637_thumb.jpg

for all fords get slated I have never had trouble with bleed nipples, fords common sense approach to making them big enough and strong so they don't snap of in the callipers the moment you stick a socket on them, after enlisting the daughter to do pedal duties we had a firm brake pedal within 15 mins,

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More new bits so straight onto next job.

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I took the grinder to the u bolts to speed up removal then a jack under the axle raised it up to fit the lowering blocks in place, would you believe it they don't fit over the location pegs, 

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Not to be beaten I popped them in the vice and honed them out and now they do fit,

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I used this to ream out the whole a mill or two,

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Then buffed the rubber of the locating peg and it all fitted together perfectly.

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The rear shocks must have been original as they where seized solid and required drastic action to remove, plasma discs are great for this sort of job.

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The bushing also had to be cut so back to the grinder and gentle cutting then a chisel and of pops the bushing, a quick buff up with a file and back to clean shiny new metal.

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Then I got the munchies.

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I slapped some pc grease on then bolted the whole shebang together and adjusted the shocks 5 clicks each and now ready for a good raggin to settle the whole lot in,

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  • Like 4
Posted

After adding some carpet and seats then some gearstick it was time for her maiden flight which was a quick once round the block with instructions left with the misses to come get me if I don't get back in 10 mins,

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After parking up and checking oil and water for the fifth time I noticed a puddle forming on the floor, this was coolant and it was coming from the water pump cock and balls.

I drained and removed the rad and then removed the water pump and it is covered in very fine metal filings,

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I took delivery of a water pump (not from the normal slated always get it wrong supplier)  which arrived the same afternoon, 10/10 for speed.

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Shock horror 0/10 for getting correct part I mean how many different water pumps can you get for a pinto? answer two and this one is none of them cocksticks,

Second time lucky and this one is right you can tell as soon as the box is opened

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It came with a new gasket so a smidge of blue hylomar and it was fitted along with the rad again and then filled with coolant as I was confident it would be fine this time,  a quick 20 miles later and job done and all that's now left to do is finish fitting the interior and enjoy.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Last night this was dropped in my lap as a deal with the blingo, just as the forum is inundated with rovers another joins the ranks.

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I shall give if a good check over this weekend as it has a couple of problems to sort.

  • Like 6
Posted

Another update if no one is bored shitless by my slaverin

 

Nope!  Entertaining and educational  :-D.

 

Also, Ford Emerald Green metallic - aaaaaahhhhhh.

Posted

Damn Gar! That is some work!!! I completely missed your thread on your journey to Belgium to pick up the Escort! Looks a lot like Woluwe in Brussels but I guess it isn't.

 

So you've now turned it into a right-hand drive and basically made it as mechanically robust as possible. Basically, it is as new.

 

My cap is duly doffed.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

I somehow missed this entirely. What a colour!

 

Yes threads drop down the pages quite quick these days, the colour is better in the flesh and I cant say I've ever seen one before,

 

.

Also, Ford Emerald Green metallic - aaaaaahhhhhh.

 

It is the one thing that everyone has been commenting on and really suits the car I think.

 

Damn Gar! That is some work!!! I completely missed your thread on your journey to Belgium to pick up the Escort! Looks a lot like Woluwe in Brussels but I guess it isn't.

 

So you've now turned it into a right-hand drive and basically made it as mechanically robust as possible. Basically, it is as new.

 

My cap is duly doffed.

 

It was Mannheim and the first of a few overseas missions,(its addictive)   I haven't done collection threads for the other 5 yet,

 

I had hoped it was robust but after fitting some sticky tyres it has decided it doesn't like Scotland and laid down in the huff, it was a decision made between two cogs in the box and the result has destroyed second gear while hooning  and only on the third tank of flowgo :-(

Posted

Great write up. Some really good stuff for reference here :)8)

  • 5 months later...
Posted

A little winter update.
After much thrashing and having to refit another gearbox due to a hungry cog,
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It was about time I sorted the little niggling rust spots and this rear sill patch as the bottom of the door is jammed hard against it when shut, it has been patched the same place as the other side I did and I'm willing to bet its down to the damn foam trapping moisture again.
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As can be seen its a pretty hashy bodge job.
I set to and cut out an exlorative small square which kept growing in size to see just what I was in for, the spiders nest of mig wire was quite funny,

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after the grinder was finished eating rust the small welding job was growing.

Posted

After much surgery all the cancer was cut out,
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then I set about rebuilding the hole since I was back to good strong metal.
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then I cut down a whole sill and stuck it in place,
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and the final job fill in the hole at the wheel arch sill end,
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a bit of primer and job jobbed

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  • Like 2
Posted

Im haveing trouble with posting tonight hence the atatched pics, after a while it just wont let me move the cursor,

 

anyhoo after the sill i had a bit poke and found another bit of rust, so a quick buff down with the flap wheel and it wasn't to bad,

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I cut it out and laid the square onto the remaining front section of sill as it had a nice curve similar to the spare wheel well.

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A quick scoot of primer a skim of filler and then paint the section and another job of the list.

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i forgot to take photos while adding the anti tramp brackets so you will just have to imagine them being fitted,

the grinder decided it was still hungry and attacked me so it was time to call it a day and gtf.

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Posted

That was Saturdays job and today i went and bought my third car of the year (well not exactly a car)

I also offered on some prime chod and the owner said he will let me know in due course,

Here is a welders dream.

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

The poor Renault could be doomed as the owner said he wanted an unrealistic £600 for it and after a lengthly chat I made him an offer but I am not holding my breath.

Collection thread would be good though as its a proper Fred flinstone spec.

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  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I wasn't successful with my old renno bid as the seller is under the impression its worth millions.

 

So now that the mk2 is finished and two tons of dinitrol pumped under it then i thought it was time to start on the next one,

rememeber this one, well it was another euro collection.

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It was a tad rusty around the front wings so it was filled with hairy bodge to get a ticket which it sailed through with only some brake adjustment required, then it could be registered,

Since it is now legal I stuck it into my garage and set to striping it down,

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you can see the whole rear section of the wing is filler and the strut top seem sealed to hide the rust .

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I found a very rare German drawing pin down by the battery so I shall stick it on ebay and make a fortune,

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I have to say the German cars seem to come to bits very easy with no seized bolts normally, but just as I said that then one of the bumper ones decided it would try to teach me a lesson,

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I wasn't having any of it so I enlisted my old friend G rinder and a quick disagreement later it was off,

  • Like 3
Posted

Not only is the back of the wing shot but so is the front and the front panel too,

I covered the windscreen and removed the headlight and called on the grinder to come and help.

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I cut the wing of and launched it in the garden, and the inner wing was looking a bit worse than expected but then don't they always, that's the thing about welding old cars you never ever cut a section out and notice less than you expected.

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the spot welded bits where left to remove so I hunted the spot weld drill bit and the cordless drill, a quick sesh and the welds where popping free leaving good steel for the next wing.

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On the front panel I couldn't get in with the drill so I used the grinder and kept slicing into the old wing small cuts at a time until just about through and prised the remaining bits of with a screwdriver, this leaves little stubs of metal from the spot weld which buffs of with a flap wheel leaving the front panel in good order.

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after the remaining bits of the wing where removed it was quite clear that I needed a front panel and wing rails because there was just nothing left to mount the new wings,  I'm not wanting them flapping around that's for sure.

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 As the door post was in pretty good order with only a minor hole a patch is all that's required here.

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  • Like 3
Posted

Before i cut out all the rot there was still enough left to see what the shape is ment to be so I stuck two pieces of strong flat bar in the vice and used them as a cheapskate folder.

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It is not really supposed to be this big I would rather trim it down at a later date.

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I then could trim out the rust.

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A quick coat of weld through primer and we are ready to go. so a small piece of metal cut to size and a nice curve to match the door pillar was stuck into place.

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Welded in and ground down.

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looks like I slam panel will also be required

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Now all I have to do is wait for some panels

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Panels ready so more more play time if any ones not fell asleep at the back yet.

 

The front panel was cut in half to save on delivery charges.

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I jacked the car up and put chocks under the chassis rails so that the front wheels where just touching the ground, the last thing I wanted was a banana shaped scrote, then started to investigate the strut top, after a bit of grinding it appears that this has just been a quick bodge as the plate has been welded straight over the top of the rusty holes.

I started to rebuild the top of the a panel and spot welded it all into place so I had a reference for the wing rail,

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I hacked away at the strut top until I realised it was going to need more removed than I had bargained on.

I cleaned up the side of the strut bucket or whatever its called and welded on the reinforcing brace that the sportier scrotes came with, this was to keep the wing rail line as I only had a couple of small bits left as a reference.

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tbc

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

By the time i had finished cutting out the rot i didnt have much of a strut top left, a quick wizz with the wire brush on the grinder some kurust then some weld through primer had it looking reasonably tidy,

spot the difference.

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Then it was time to trim up the repair section ready for welding into place, this included drilling holes in it to spot weld it to the strut bucket,

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After clamping the panel in place and jiggling to make me happy it was time for welding so out came the sticky gun.

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After full welding I buffed it down and that was part one of the strut repair.

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Then I drilled holes in the strut top reinforcing plates as per sportier models then welded that on after much tappy tapping I had it fitting flush all round.

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tbc

 

 

 

  • Like 3

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