Bren Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Having done the n/s rear brakes on my SD1 (shoes and cylinders), I have a problem with the o/s in that the screw which holds the copper pipe in the rear of the cylinder is mullered - despite using shock and unlock and plus gas it wont budge - it just rounds off more. The only thing I have heat wise is my trusty MIG - I was thinking of trying to get a bit of weld on to the rear of the cylinder to make it expand, the pipes themselves look like they are made from Kunifer, so care will be needed. Assuming I get it free I will need to borrow a flaring tool as it will certainly need a new screw. Does any body have any other ideas?
dollywobbler Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 The usual trick of 'hammer a smaller socket on it' won't work, but you might be able to hammer a smaller spanner onto it. I used this technique to successfully remove a rusted bleed nipple from a brake caliper last year. The shock of the spanner being forced on may help loosen things up too.
meggersdog Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Small stilsons or molegrips.Once you have the end moving you could undo the wheel cylinder from the backplate then unscrew it from the pipe
M'coli Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 The only thing I have heat wise is my trusty MIG Any meths/aftershave? Wrap a small bit of rag around a screwdriver of something and soak it in something flammible, then light it!
Des Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Cut the pipe out of the way and you will be able to perform the hammer and socket procedure.
Richard Posted February 24, 2013 Posted February 24, 2013 Chop the pipe off and MIG weld a nut on, this heats things up nicely and gives you something to put a spanner on.
Bren Posted February 25, 2013 Author Posted February 25, 2013 I tried laying some tacks down on the back of the cylinder with my MIG - even the heat would not help matters. In the end I had to saw through the port on the rear of the cylinder where the pipe fits - once cut through I wound the remainder of the cylinder away. The screw was solid on the pipe - two hacksaw cuts down the length of the screw were required to get it off. Now I need a flaring tool to put a flare on the pipe so I can refit it to the cylinder. Deffo a stubborn bugger.
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