1986 Saab 900 Turbo

[Rod/b]

I've just bought one, sight unseen, over the internet, from 3000 miles away, for 250 quid. I won't see it until September either.

 

Anyway, that said, is there anything especially troublesome to look out for on them? It's an 8 valve model.

[nigel bickle]

marvellous cars. Just about to offload my T16 flat front,sadly.

 

Gearbox. Check reverse (you have to put the car into reverse to get the key out- which wears) & front o/s chassis rail -beneath the battery.

 

But -they're pretty close to bulletproof.

[Rod/b]

I'll bear that in mind, cheers Nige. Are the reverse issues normally wear in the box, the linkages or the lever mech should we run into any issues?

[Station]

Why September?

[Rod/b]

That's when i'm next in the UK. I live in Qatar.

[dollywobbler]

Gearbox is the main weakness. I've driven one with completely shot bearings in it - still mobile, but sounded horrific!

 

Door bottoms fall off, rear arches rot and the headlining falls down. Smooth and rapid though.

[Richard]

Gearboxes are the main weakness. Jumping out of reverse and noisy mainshaft bearings are the common faults, both require a stripdown.

 

They can rust but 1986 is a good year.

[Rocket88]

Funnilly enough, I've always found headlining on most Swedish built stuff has a Bedoiun tent tendancy......................

[scooters]

all above is accurate - I had one and whilst I really liked it - it was terrifyingly quick and I could never get on with the delicate gears and the brutal turbo with lag - mind you I don't think I gave mine a huge amount of time to fall in love with

[wuvvum]

Front arches tend to rot worse than the rears on these. 8 valve turbos are usually pretty bulletproof though, and a good later (intercooled) 8 valve will be nearly as quick as a 16. For £250 you aren't going to go far wrong anyway...

[Rod/b]

For £250 you aren't going to go far wrong anyway...

 

You've said it now. Anything goes wrong with it, i'm blaming you!

[Rod/b]

Actually, now you mention it, there's something wrong with it already, which it will fail an MOT on. The driver's door won't open. I'm hoping the lock rods have detached themselves, and IIRC, you can get the door card off without opening the door on these, so it shouldn't be too hard a fix.

 

Anyone care to piss on my bonfire and tell me how I'll need to take a Stihl saw to door skin to get access, or something?

[nigel bickle]

You'll need to take a Stihl.......