Somerset Suffolk Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 10 hours ago, Mally said: My dad bought a Gold seal engine for a Minor 1000, in the 60's. Cost £50 from a main dealers, owned by Harry Ratciffe's dad iirc. (Google him if unaware). I fitted it. Mally - funnily enough I've a 4 door Minor with a gold seal engine in it - waiting to be restored along with a 2 door - both should be 1098cc but the gold seal in the 4 door is a 950cc - there a lovely smooth engine but not sure how it will cope with moving a 1098 diff up hill 🤔
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 On 20/10/2025 at 19:35, stuboy said: looks good, what getting in and out like? Stuboy - its not too bad to get in and out of - doors don't open that wide but not as bad as my MGA - that feels like I need to roll out onto the floor if I'm a bit knackered 😄
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 23 hours ago, Dj_efk said: Oh wow, you've basically stolen it at that price - its a really high spec for one of those and was obviously cherished - also is that a stainless exhaust? cheers Dj_efk - its been a bit of a chod bastard up until now - but making progress at last - exhaust is mild steel but looks in good condition 👍
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 soooo back to August -remove spark plugs, turn engine over by hand, clean points in distributor, disconnect fuel pipe to purge old fuel, turn ignition key (its a bit tired and doesn't seem to spring back from start to run - decided to ignore this for moment - big bastard mistake ... no ticking from fuel pump look at fuel pump - bodgery its cabled tied on and missing the large rubber doughnut - remove fuel pump clean points and refit with rubber mounting ring - old fuel very stale but no bits or crap in it (there is a fuel filter fitted) - use a auxiliary fuel tank and try and start engine - starter motor doesn't seem to be engaging and front carb leaking badly from base gasket, so remove carbs and starter motor carbs seem OK other than fair bit of crud in float bowls - fit new gaskets and refit carbs Lucas starter motor also looks new (turns out to be reconditioned ) but solenoid isn't throwing out pinion - order new Rollco starter motor and start faffing with new seat covers, fitting new brake pipes and flexis and suspension stuff JMotor, Wibble, Westbay and 2 others 5
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 seat stuff - order these from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334781314450 dirt cheap but actually quite well made - very happy with them - will post a few pics later - seat frames in good nick as is the foam and webbing etc - seat covers with the car were the original style but drives had a few rips in it - shame as the passengers and rear were in good nick Dj_efk, chodweaver, Westbay and 3 others 6
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 Brake stuff - brake shields have dissolved, replace all flexis and make up new pipes as most of the originals are crusty and wont undo without snapping - the long metal pipe that runs from front to back was particularly bad - snaps in half when I remove it (bastard oily job working on my back ) wonder what MOT tester was looking at when GT was last tested ? Got a lovely Pickavant flaring tool given to me by a lovely friend and neighbour who was in the motor trade all his life - he died recently at age 90 - will be much missed - its the dogs bollocks and I really enjoy using it - proper old school tools - fit new wheel bearings whilst the hubs are off - new rear wheel cylinders - hand brake cables look ok - calipers good and pistons were pushed right back in as pads look new and meaty - hoping to bleed the brakes tomorrow ...... jim89, Peter C, Wibble and 10 others 13
comfortablynumb Posted October 22 Posted October 22 @Somerset Suffolk, I've had two of those brake flares tools, hopefully I'm preaching to the converted, but make sure you have the pipe seated and the tapers in fully before you tighten the large wingnut, both of mine have (eventually) stripped the thread from the inside of the nut😕 Admittedly that's after many uses, and they weren't new when I got hold of them, but just something to be aware of. The instructions do say don't use the wingnut to pull the tapers home, which does seem a bit strange, how else are you supposed to get clamping force? Anyway, like I said, I bet you already know that 👍
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 48 minutes ago, comfortablynumb said: @Somerset Suffolk, I've had two of those brake flares tools, hopefully I'm preaching to the converted, but make sure you have the pipe seated and the tapers in fully before you tighten the large wingnut, both of mine have (eventually) stripped the thread from the inside of the nut😕 Admittedly that's after many uses, and they weren't new when I got hold of them, but just something to be aware of. The instructions do say don't use the wingnut to pull the tapers home, which does seem a bit strange, how else are you supposed to get clamping force? Anyway, like I said, I bet you already know that 👍 @comfortablynumb thanks - the flaring tool can be a bit fiddly to use and I would agree about seating the tapers - hoping it will out last me ! comfortablynumb 1
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 Bit of suspension stuff - bushes etc were pretty tired and perished (mentioned in MOT ) took a bit of work to get it all apart but no too bad - used a "Autobush" kit from MG owners club - comes with pouches of grease so no arguments about what grease to use.... Cleaned the wish pans in a little parts cleaner and gave them a coat of paint - fitted new ball joint covers as ball joints themselves were in good condition - new bushes in anti roll bar - again a bit of heat and hammering got them in and a vice helped and careful bashing get the new ones back in MVX11V, Dan302, JMotor and 3 others 6
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 back together ... and then apart again on offside because I fitted the top trunnion back to front ... 🤔 - looks a bit cleaner but no idea what it will feel like handling and ride wise as I've not driven the GT prior to the suspension rebuild - hopefully will feel OK adw1977, Andyrew, JMotor and 7 others 10
MVX11V Posted October 22 Posted October 22 Good job. You've done it all in the right place too, not in your mother in laws kitchen like i did... Certainly tested the integrity of laminate flooring. Somerset Suffolk and mercedade 2
Andyrew Posted October 22 Posted October 22 Great work, I've found the B quite a nice thing to work on, parts availability is great and plenty of info. Most problems I've had have been previously bodged or butchered bits Somerset Suffolk 1
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 Rear suspension - decided to go for telescopic shock conversion DIY kit - fitted a similar thing to my sons Morris Minor when he was 17 and just passed his test - Minor was cheap to insure for him (apprentice brick layer) this was 14 years ago, and rear teles did help handling and ride so I'm happy giving this a go - it can be reversed and put back to Armstrong type shocks (which were fecked on my GT) "how to" details from here -https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-rear-shock-conversion.26 shocks were bought from Amazon and came all the way from the US of A - fasteners etc from ebay Peter C, Wibble, chodweaver and 1 other 4
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 Off topic - my sons first car aged 16 and 18 when we sold it (he bought a T4 as he's a keen surfer) with "just passed my test crash damage" 2 weeks after passing his test and the shock rear conversion - he did about 14000 miles in a year - only let him down once (fuel pump!) Minor was one of the last 2 door salons and is still on the road - where did that time go ! Dan302, Dick Cheeseburger, Wibble and 6 others 9
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 clutch hydraulics - despite the picture of the slave cylinder the bore looked ok once cleaned up and fitted new seal kit ... bollocks was it ok - leaked so fitted new replacement - had to fit new metal pipe as couldn't get it undone despite time and care - also had a braided hose spare from my MGA with same fittings as MGB but turned out to be too short - clevis pin and clutch rod very worn - I know some people re weld and drill this but just ordered new ones- pressure bled the system - tyre at 15 PSI but always seem to struggle with the rubber seals in the kit and fluid pissed out of the master and into the cockpit - luckily I'd removed the mats - now have clutch and fingers crossed, gearbox OK (not tried O/D and wiring looks a bit shite and O/D switch was a broken plastic item so will sort this first ) seems ok up on the stands but still not driven it yet. Rightnider, chodweaver, Dan302 and 1 other 4
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 made more progress today - but what has slowed this all down was the starter motor / ignition switch problem - as mentioned the original starter motor pinion didn't throw out - bought a new Rollco small unit thingy and fitted this - this turned the engine over and with a bit of coaxing, engine started and run OK, however the ignition switch is iffy and doesn't really spring back from "start" to "run" on the key/ignition switch - resulting in a few engage starter motor whilst engine turning - no real drama so I thought, but once auxiliary fuel tank runs empty and is refilled, new starter motor wont turn engine over at all - take off starter motor - bench test it but looks OK - re fit but nothing ? ! bit confused Do other stuff - clean old Lucas motor and pinion now throws out and seems OK - fit this but again fuck all - start worrying about ring gear - there a few light witness marks but doesn't look that bad - turn engine over a fill 360 of ring gear and it does look OK - MG and Triumph forums agree but no worried I'll have to take engine out to replace ring gear Remember that in my nearest town of Bridgwater there is a old fashion shop selling batteries and do starter motor and alternator repairs etc - its been there years - decide to take both starter motors to them - 2 old blokes in shop - both a bit taciturn but decent enough - plonk starter motors on bench - bloke spins pinion by hand any says there both knackered ! - the pinions are spinning clockwise and anti clockwise so no wonder there not turning engine over ! feel relived and stupid - £45 to repair Lucas starter motor - yes thanks ! - wait about a week and starter motor repaired - fitted and turns engine over - still not replaced ignition switch so replace this before attempting a proper start up - then have to take starter motor off to get to clutch slave cylinder - but now all good as per start up and running you tube video - ignition switch was £16 ...... Wibble, chodweaver, Westbay and 7 others 10
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 22 Author Posted October 22 Today I've been able to bleed the brakes - tried the pressure bleeder - opened tiny nipple on near side rear and a lot of bubbles and then fluid - close nipple but then hear air at master cylinder and fluid is by passing cap on master cylinder (tyre pressure at 15 PSI ?! ) big puddle of brake fluid in and under car - give up on pressure bleeder and use one man non return bleeder - their about £6 - use piece of wood to keep pedal down before closing off bleed nipple - go round all for corners and fuck me firm brake pedal - result and that's about where I am with this GT - few pics of re trimmed seats Going to take stock - need to fit/check split pins, torque settings on suspension , re fit seats properly etc - GT is insured so will work towards a test drive and sorting cosmetics etc thanks for reading so far Cheers Matt Asimo, Matty, vtec-e and 9 others 12
Asimo Posted October 22 Posted October 22 Wow, that upholstery piping is RED ! Peter C, Somerset Suffolk and adw1977 1 2
Peter C Posted October 22 Posted October 22 Dog dick red piping. tooSavvy, Somerset Suffolk and GagaStan 3
riek Posted October 24 Posted October 24 I left Bridgwater 23 years ago and that shop felt like a relic back then. Amazed to see it still going.
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 24 Author Posted October 24 3 hours ago, riek said: I left Bridgwater 23 years ago and that shop felt like a relic back then. Amazed to see it still going. @riek Think I first went in there in 1993 when I lived in Pawlett - it's not changed since then - same 2 blokes as well - its like going back in time - nice really 👍 chodweaver and N Dentressangle 2
riek Posted October 24 Posted October 24 You might remember Amateurs DIY on st John Street too. Staffed by a seemingly impossible number of old boys in shop coats who knew exactly where the specific screw you needed was. Now long gone.
Somerset Suffolk Posted October 24 Author Posted October 24 3 hours ago, riek said: You might remember Amateurs DIY on st John Street too. Staffed by a seemingly impossible number of old boys in shop coats who knew exactly where the specific screw you needed was. Now long gone. Don't remember the name, but remember going into a hardware/DIY shop many years ago on St John St - the shop seemed to go back like a labyrinth and practically falling down ? the old boy in a brown coat patiently explained how a house ring mains worked to me - feeling old now ! N Dentressangle 1
Somerset Suffolk Posted November 3 Author Posted November 3 Little update - few little bits sorted/butchered - fitted a 12v socket and the original Goodmans stereo was non functioning and one of the speakers was knackered (looked OK but no connectivity when tested with a multimeter ) fitted new speakers and Sony head unit with red illumination - existing illumination on dials was poor to say the least so changed to bulbs in all the dials to red LEDs to match the head unit - dials now visible at night Wibble, chodweaver, tooSavvy and 1 other 4
Peter C Posted November 3 Posted November 3 @Somerset Suffolk Looks good. How did you reach the bulbs in the speedo and tacho? Round the back of the dashboard? How many cuts and bruises did you sustain? N Dentressangle 1
Somerset Suffolk Posted November 3 Author Posted November 3 Whilst fitting the stereo, it became clear that wiring at the fuse box, fuse box connections and fuses needed a clean up - gave them a clean up but still had intermittent power on the courtsey light - checked the fuse box again and turned out to be a dodgy fuse (loose metal cap end) now seems ok ... and the horn works, along with the hazards, lights, heater fan and indicators. Also stuck my finger in the rear diff - oil level good and oil very clean - checked the wiring to the overdrive unit which looks OK ...... I think I need to bolt in the drivers seat, put it back on its wheels, and take it for a test drive ...... chodweaver 1
Somerset Suffolk Posted November 3 Author Posted November 3 6 minutes ago, Peter C said: @Somerset Suffolk Looks good. How did you reach the bulbs in the speedo and tacho? Round the back of the dashboard? How many cuts and bruises did you sustain? Yep dials in situ - it was an absolute bastard of a job changing the bulbs Peter - the drivers seat was out which helped - along with a mirror and and a torch - still took what felt like forever - was able to straighten the rev counter in the dash for an OCD correction (it was loose and on the piss) chodweaver, N Dentressangle and Peter C 3
Peter C Posted November 3 Posted November 3 @Somerset Suffolk Congratulations. My B’s dimmer switch is buggered and consequently the dials don’t light up. I planned to remove the bulbs and wire them up to a separate switch but my attempts to reach the bulbs resulted in failure. My arms and fingers are too big. Fortunately, I don’t have to drive my B after dark. Somerset Suffolk 1
Somerset Suffolk Posted November 3 Author Posted November 3 Think you can bypass the dimmer switch ? (Dimmer switch offers a choice of illumination from very dim to a birthday candle in a jam jar 4 miles away bright) LED's deffo the way to go - my GT still has the sealed beam headlamps so driving at night should be fun packed experience ....
Peter C Posted November 3 Posted November 3 @Somerset Suffolk Yes, I planned on cutting the cables and connecting them via a switch to a +12V supply. However, I can’t cut and reconnect something that I can’t see or reach. Ditto my headlights, hence no driving after dark.
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