Jump to content

Mk2 Mazda 6 2008-2013


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all . Any thoughts on the second generation Mazda 6. 2.0 litre petrol I'm thinking about. I've seen on on autotrader from a dealer. Good spec with 89k , no mention of rust in MOT. I had a previous generation that I took from 120k to 170k with no issues. Original clutch and exhuast too. I'm finding my mk2 1.4 i20 a little too loud and boomy, I miss the 2 litre waftyness. 

Posted

I think rust really is their biggest weakness, Im not sure if there is much else to look out for with these. They sure seem like a bargain. My only thought usually is, why not go with a Lexus instead?

Posted

This one is priced at £3000. 61 plate. Full leather and 1 owner. I'm.thinking it'll be more durable than my 70,000 mile 2015 plate i20. 

Posted

Fairly certain it’s a Ford engine and it’s pretty reliable if unremarkable. I would personally have a look underneath or get it seen to prior, they all rust, and can do quite badly. They do feel a bit lightweight compared to an equivalent Mondeo/Insignia though.

Posted

I've not long got rid of my 57 plate hatchback (2008, first of the GH generation) which we had been in the family since around 2012, along with a 60 plate estate owned by my grandparents .

Rust and rust again. They look good from the outside but check the boot floor when the jack is kept on the left and right hand side as water can leak in, get held in there and rot out. Sills are covered in plastic trim but my 57 plate was looking very rough underneath around the inner sill ends, boot floor and rear subframe mounts, hence why it was moved on.

Rear suspension arms are prone to failure around the bushes due to rust, the arm pulls out of the bush. I replaced mine as they were looking poor and you have to cut out the camber bolts as they seize to the arm. The old arms were scarily thin. Would probably budget getting these done if they have anything more than surface rust on them.

Both cars needed rear brake calipers and cables which seemed to be service items to get an acceptable handbrake for the MOT. Front caliper pins seize up easily too.

Other than the mentioned above it was service items only. Both were the 2 litre petrol and were faultless in terms of relability. My 57 plate was on just shy of 160k when I sold it and the 60 plate had done about 100k when it was sold. The 60 plate had to have a clutch which was a horrible job as its subframe off to get the gearbox out. Generally averaged mid to high 30s, with average performance. Firm ride but good cruisers.

Great cars, I've replaced it with 2014 of the next generation which I hope will give similar service.

20231031_110403.jpg.1944f985527ab7bf82ac2e7daa18f6c5.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Speaking from a Scotiish angle, where rot is accelerated due to the climate and our roads being salted about 9 months of the year, I wouldn't touch one with a bargepole.

Probably very decent cars when new, but they rot like no other 'modern', and whilst the petrols are probably ok, the diesels are self lunching garbage.

They were at one point quite common up here, and they seemed to vanish pretty much overnight about 5-6 years ago. Which usually tells its own tale. Mileage etc doesn't seem to matter, they just seem to disintegrate on age.

The few that remain and pop up for sale are always worth an MOT history check, they are almost always absolutely hilarious. Not unusual at all to see 10-12 entries for corrosion either being advised or failed. Don't think there's a single bit of the underside that isn't a weak point.

Posted

Thanks for thr replies. I suspected rust could be an issue. It was killing my 2007 example. Advisories at 10 years old!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...