Bear's bangers: one batch of secondhand paint for the SLK

[Bear]

How it started:

How it's going:

How it got there:

Nearly done, I think I could do it in an hour if I had tea made and behaving ADHD.

[Schaefft]

Big improvement!

[Bear]

Adjustment and leak check

[Bear]

So, for anyone thinking of doing this:

Stage 1: Remove the headlining and side trims.

1. Open the roof half way
2. Undo the three screws per side that hold the side trims on
3. Yes, there are three
4. The other one is near the hinge
5. Yes. That one. Don't break it like the person I got my roof from did
6. They are held by a grabby metal clip as well, but it's not fierce
7. Remove the three screws at the front of the roof headlining. Don't lose the cup washers
8. Unclip five spring clips at the back inside the plastic edge trim
9. Notice four have unclipped and the other fell off
10. That's the rattling sound traced then

This is a metal guide for the bowden cables

Stage 2: Remove the roof panel

1. Close the roof
2. Yes, close it
3. You need two torx bits, the smaller one does the fittings, the bigger one holds the roof to the arms
4. Unclip the bowden cables from the roof latches
5. Note the number of threads they are secured at on each metal bracket
6. Release the clip and withdraw them, detaching the metal spring clips from the roof and then removing the bowden cable from the clips
7. Remove the metal guides (black metal bracket with eye for the bowden cable)
8. Feed the bowden cables past the latches and out of the roof skin
9. Disconnect the guides from the roof mounted clips that hold them near the hinges
10. Get the bigger torx bit
11. Undo the four bolts per side holding the roof to the arms
12. Look out for the shim plates that adjust clearance
13. Detach the spring clips and cable guides holding the wires and hydraulic lines to the roof skin
14. Undo the three torx bits holding the hydraulic cylinder and latch mechanism in the centre of the roof
15. It won't fall or move
16. Undo three screws per latch. A couple are captive, the ones near the switches have metal shields on
17. Assuming all 9 front components screws, all 8 roof to arm screws, and any associated clips have been detached and you fed the bowden cables out, the roof skin should just lift up and off the car
18. Admire the targa-top SLK with roof latches, pipes and wires hanging in mid-air from the header rail
19. Take the rubber buffers and any stray metal clips off the old roof and transfer them to the new roof
20. Those metal clips halfway up the frame at the back of the roof hold the cant rail trims, you want them

Stage 3: Fit the new roof panel

1. Sneak up on the car in case it tries running away
2. Drop the new roof panel over the gap between the front and back windows
3. Ideally with the shiny side up
4. And really, with the bolt holes for the roof arms at the back
5. That's it. Now loosely fit the 8 screws holding the roof to the arms
6. Don't forget about those shim plates
7. Put the bowden cables back through the roof skin, clip then in as before, refit the brackets and make sure the bowden cable adjustment is the same as it was before
8. Yes, the bowden cables go to the opposite side latches
9. Wiggle the roof panel if needed to line up the latch screws
10. Refit the latch screws loosely
11. Secure the mechanism in the middle, securely
12. Clip the metal carriers for the switch wires and hydraulic lines back on the roof
13. Does the roof look like it is sitting right? Chances are it is
14. Tighten the rear screws up
15. Did you remember the shim plates?
16. Double check the sensors, wires and bowden cables are routed correctly and clipped correctly.
17. Tighten the latch screws a bit then open the roof
18. Nothing went bang? Excellent
19. Start closing it, stop before it fully shuts
20. Tighten the latch screws
21. Fully close the roof
22. Nothing went bang? How does it look?
23. At the back of the roof does the rear side window engage with the cant rail seal on the roof panel?
24. Does the front edge look snug?
25. Does the back end look like the gap is even?
26. Everything tight?
27. Too tight? Did you remember the shims?
28. Operate the roof fully listening for snags, horrid noises or other worrying things
29. Switch off Radio 4 News
30. Still hearing worrying things? Check you did everything up
31. Roof not moving? Did you reattach the bowden cables properly?
32. All working? Tighten things properly (ideally should have loctite), I don't have torque specs but common sense applies
33. Try it again, if it all opens and closes as it should it's time to run a tap
34. Yes. A cup of tea is a good idea
35. Afterwards, spray a hose and look to see if water gets in
36. More than usual
37. Stop powerwashing the A-pillars
38. Okay, it's dry. Open the roof half way again
39. Refit the centre screw of the headlining, then clip the five clips (four and broken bit of trim) in to hold it
40. Now refit the side trims. Start by carefully lining up and sliding the tab for the rear bow into the edge
41. Now align the headliner edge with the guides
42. Fit the plastic trim fully, remembering to feed the seal
43. Once the aquatic mammal is fed, also put the cant rail seal over the plastic
44. If there's a gap make sure the rear floating piece goes between the roof and the hinge, not in the middle of the hinge
45. If there's a bulge make sure the floating guide is in the metal clip that holds it against the roof edge
46. You did remember to swap the clip, right?
47. Now do up the screws holding the side trim
48. Now do the last two screws on the headlining front edge
49. What's that on the passenger seat?
50. Is it a roof shim?

Congratulations, you have swapped an SLK roof.

There are some adjustment points and on mine the roof is now a snug fit with better alignment of the window surround trim, but the passenger window looks like it might need tilting in slightly to seal properly.

[robt100]

Looks very good!

What is the plan for the old panel, paint it up as a spare, or just leave it to consider its own poor cosmetic condition in the corner?

[MrBig]

48 minutes ago, robt100 said:

Looks very good!

What is the plan for the old panel, paint it up as a spare, or just leave it to consider its own poor cosmetic condition in the corner?

Make a good sledge if we get any snow this winter!

[Bear]

2 hours ago, robt100 said:

Looks very good!

What is the plan for the old panel, paint it up as a spare, or just leave it to consider its own poor cosmetic condition in the corner?

Maybe repaint, maybe practice welding, maybe use as a shield against zombies...

[EyesWeldedShut]

3 hours ago, Bear said:

Congratulations, you have swapped an SLK roof.

Looking at that list I hope I never have to but, should I ever, now I know where to come for the guide.
Black SLK looks much better now - top job.

One thing though - shouldn't the second #15 go right at the end as #45?  
 

[Bear]

15 minutes ago, EyesWeldedShut said:

Looking at that list I hope I never have to but, should I ever, now I know where to come for the guide.
Black SLK looks much better now - top job.

One thing though - shouldn't the second #15 go right at the end as #45?  
 

A third one

They are hard to lose really but if you forgot them it would be very annoying