The Ex-forum of several shiters 95 Mazda 323 coupé - for sale again!

[dougiefourspeed]

Looks good Mr. Egg.

 

I can’t remember the last time I saw one of those on the road, it’s only the occasional ‘F’ I spot from time to time.

[egg]

So, with all the costs in for the latest round of improvements. Let's look at total project costs.

 

Total project costs to date = £415 (purchase price + MOT and associated fixing)

Other Labour costs = £125

parts spend = £166.75

total costs = £706.75

Estimated value of car = £450   

 

High Priority

Entire new exhaust (looks like can source from Germany via ebay for at least the middle/rear box) - including a check on the manifold Partially done, Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe still needs changing
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt hamber wax on order (not added to costs)

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 (cost £35)
New Tyres
Cambelt and aux belt
New Rad/Coolant change

replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 (cost £0)
new wiper blades
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!)
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate
Refurbish/replace wheel trims
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter)
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5 (cost £3.25)
Underneath rust prevention

new captive nut for side light - done 21/6 (cost £2)

Paint battery clamp

PAS fluid (oil cooling will need replacing long term - twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Soundproofing....

[egg]

Here's the two worst areas where I've called on the Pope (Vatcan). My plan is to then cover in Bilt Hamber Dynax UC to maximise the chances of it getting through the winter.

 

I'd like to get it on a ramp and have a proper go underneath too.

 

What the longer term plans and role for this car are on the fleet remain unclear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Yoss]

I don't think you can be too upset at a couple of hundred quid running costs over four months. That seems fairly normal when you buy a new* car and work through its niggles. Once sorted the next four months would probably be cheaper. You could spend many times more on any car and you'd still have to spend more on it.

 

It's still looks like a bargain to me.

[egg]

This is very true Yoss, it is whether to also go for 2 x new tyres (£100ish), Cambelt change (£200 labour?) and change the rad. I could move this on and try and get my other broken Mondeo working that's becoming a bit of an albatross....

 

But the most important thing was to 'save this for the nation' (lol), and I think at least I've done that...

[egg]

I've just used this for the first time, spraying over the Vactan areas in a fine covering. Spray does work well at all angles. Very easy. So will let it dry for a bit and have a look. Couple of drips only.

 

[Sir Snipes]

I used that before, too. Seemed alright, though I've no idea about how well it does over the long term.

[egg]

I'm seeing it as extra winter protection, and applying now while there's a good chance of it drying.  But as can be seen from the pics above, ultimately at least one area will need cutting out and replacing if this is not to become the next AS Colt...

[Sir Snipes]

Pretty sure it stays tacky so it can "self heal".

[egg]

Yes, it does say 24-96 hours to cure. Obviously, what I really need to is get the car in the air and have a go underneath. The Mondeo will have a bit of this along the sills too.

[egg]

Bit annoying. Says you can 'drive after half an hour' after applying the wax - I left it just under 24. However, loads of mini stones have now attached themselves to it in the wheel well...

 

Umm. Might need to wash off with solvent and start again?

 

 

[Sir Snipes]

No it'll do that if it stays soft, same as putting too much grease on something inevitably attracts crud. I wouldn't worry about it.

[egg]

No it'll do that if it stays soft, same as putting too much grease on something inevitably attracts crud. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Thanks. After my initial annoyance, I thought about it a bit more, and you're right. I think it does show if I do the underside on a ramp and drive it home straight away what will happen!

 

On other matters, I looked up the performance figures, and it bears out my experience, 0-30 mph is very nippy, and 0-40 good too, but it does suffer more re: achieving higher speeds. To add, these aren't the official figures.

 

[egg]

Well, I couldn't put off a spare key with transponder any longer. The only key has a slight crack in it, and so, one over enthusiastic turn from snapping. Cost £35. Costs updated above over £700 now...

[egg]

New key means new keyring . Not the supplying dealer, but period correct. £4.

 

[500tops]

Lovely!

[Jim Bell]

Classy!

[egg]

Hopefully this down pipe is getting fitted in the next 24 hours, assuming it's the right part!

 

[oldcars]

I used that before, too. Seemed alright, though I've no idea about how well it does over the long term.

It lasts well. i used it on the bottom of the 75. Lasted a Scottish winter (6 months)

[oldcars]

Bit annoying. Says you can 'drive after half an hour' after applying the wax - I left it just under 24. However, loads of mini stones have now attached themselves to it in the wheel well...

 

Umm. Might need to wash off with solvent and start again?

 

DSCF9597.JPG

It does that, don't worry its still working.

[egg]

Bollocks.

 

The down pipe was the right one, but feedback from the mechanic says it's such poor quality, it won't fit, oh and the gaskets supplied are wrong too. So that's all got to go back, which will no doubt be a battle.

 

He's hopefully ordered a better one from my dad's old motor factor (probably should have just gone to them to start with).

 

Bloody cars!

[egg]

Well, I just left it with him after that, and eventually....it came back fixed this afternoon...

 

The good news

 

Damn, it's quite a bit quieter now!

The new downpipe was better quality, so I now have the shame of having my parts returned to me (I'll try to get my money back, but not hopeful).

The Lambda sensor broke, and it was £85 for a new one, he knows me better than that so he chopped off the old one, found a cheapo one knocking about and soldered the wires in, good stuff!

 

The not so good

 

Needs a new CV boot (small, but another trip back probably)

The Cat itself (now the only original part of the exhaust) has a slight crack in it, but not something he fancied welding because of possible damage...

 

Ok, so new tyres and tracking next £££££££

[sierraman]

CV boot isn’t a difficult job providing the pinch bolt comes out ok. Get a cone and stretch boot kit from J&R only about £4-5. Job done in an hour or so.

[egg]

Project* cost update...

 

Two new tyres under investigation for OMGIMPENDINGSNOKHAOS, we're having a great Autumn down here, has to be said.

 

Now the exhaust is (mainly) sealed, it really is nippy. It has the same power as my Mondeos,  but is around 15% lighter (1065kg approx v 1250kg approx). It is perfect for nipping about town. I do really enjoy driving it. And...Mrs Egg is ok with it to, apart from rear visibility....which Wobbler may have shown a solution to on Hubnut...

 

Total project costs to date = £415 (purchase price + MOT and associated fixing)

Other Labour costs = £175

parts spend = £236.75

total costs = £826.75

Estimated value of car = £450   

 

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch

New CV boot

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette)
New Rad/Coolant change

replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 (cost £0)
new wiper blades
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!)
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate
Refurbish/replace wheel trims
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter)
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5 (cost £3.25)
Underneath rust prevention

new captive nut for side light - done 21/6 (cost £2)

Paint battery clamp

PAS fluid (oil cooling will need replacing long term - twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Soundproofing.... not going to bother, it is mainly used for town driving, not many longer runs.

[egg]

This afternoon, this happened....a pair of Nexens Nblue HD plus (sounds like a TV!), which I know have some mixed reviews.

 

Alignment has also been done, and the CV boot.

 

 

The Transit is for sale, Maltese import - about £10k!

 

[egg]

Ok, so now updated, and there we go up to nearly a grand, and I wonder where my money goes. Anyway - consider this car 'saved' now. As long as rust doesn't kill it, or the auto box shits itself, we should be fine now until MOT until next May apart from minor consumables. Oh, the front washer fluid stinks - so that could do with a drain and flush/bleach.

 

I still wouldn't mind getting it on a ramp for some Vactan action. Still waiting on the dodgy down-pipe refund...

 

We can play cambelt roulette (non-interference) until then too, and also do the rad/coolant change after the MOT.

 

That's the plan, let's see how it plays out. This will be the WBOD.

 

Total project costs to date = £415 (purchase price + MOT and associated fixing)

Other Labour costs = £215

parts spend = £254.04

tyres spend = £120

total costs = £1005.05

Estimated value of car = £450    

 

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch

New CV boot Done 24/10

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking - done 24/9 (Cost £120), 2 x Nexens at £45 + £30 for the tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette)
New Rad/Coolant change

replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 (cost £0)
new wiper blades - done rear wiper blade changed 31/10, fronts changed 11/11
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!)
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate
Refurbish/replace wheel trims
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter)
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5 (cost £3.25)
Underneath rust prevention

new captive nut for side light - done 21/6 (cost £2)

Paint battery clamp

PAS fluid (oil cooling will need replacing long term - twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Soundproofing.... not going to bother, it is mainly used for town driving, not many longer runs.

Smelly (front) washer fluid - done 2/11 - flushed front fluid system and new screenwash (cost £0)

[egg]

So today, using my trusted pompe Chinese, I extracted the front washer fluid. Ewk.

 

 

Then I got fresh water - diluted some antibacterial fluid in it and refilled the reservoir, disconnected the washer pipe, and ran the pump until the fluid reservoir was empty. Did the same with diluted bleach mix.

 

Then topped up with fresh screen wash at winter concentration - and well, seems like the smell has gone.

 

If this is my last post for a while then I've got Legionnaires!!

[egg]

New fluid meant new wipers, yes I do need to paint the arms. Next year now...

 

[egg]

First full tank test for MPG, 271.3 miles and refilled with...41.94 litres, that doesn't sound good....

 

29.4 MPG

 

Worse than Wobbler's V6 Rover, and LS400's can match that on a run?

 

Methinks that new used Lambda sensor is duff...?

[mrbenn]

Figures I've seen for the 1.5 petrol give a combined figure of about 37mpg (if I'm looking at the right model), so that sounds a bit low. Auto though, and winter....

 

Is that on a run or around the doors?