Jump to content

Jobs that garages wont take on


Recommended Posts

Posted

Not sure about the mk4 but mk3 mondeo struts aren't a nice job and are the reason I now have a £1700 spring compressing station .

You have to be careful removing the strut from the car not to bugger the lower arm Rear bush and most struts are seized solid in the knuckle these days .

Once the strut is off the spring has loads of preload and doubles in length when taken off . Just to make it even more fun the damper sucks back in all the time .

 

Another cunty spring is Citroen c3's . Again the preload is crazy and it's a curved spring .

 

Easiest springs - always vauxhalls . If you can undo the top nut ( Astra h I'm looking at you )

 

 

See also Citroen C4 and Peugeot 207. Same badly designed French shit, add rusty bolts and the strut that rusts solid into the hub. No ta.

 

See also BMW E46 where the hub to strut clamp bolts rusts and snaps off meaning removing the whole hub and trying to get the remains of the bolt out. Just rubbish.

Posted

Collected a written off 94/95 Ford Mustang GT today.  Owner wants the engine & driveline put in his 1970 Ford 15M which needs a ton of metalwork first. 

 

Find me a garage that'll do that and I'll happily pass this one on...

  • Like 1
Posted

Or covered in foil and left in a low temperature oven.

 

Or on top of a pan of simmering water with a plate upside down on top.

Posted

Collected a written off 94/95 Ford Mustang GT today.  Owner wants the engine & driveline put in his 1970 Ford 15M which needs a ton of metalwork first. 

 

Find me a garage that'll do that and I'll happily pass this one on...

 

I have no doubt whatever that you are the man for that job.

  • Like 1
Posted

Goona 2 pez clutch...

 

Something about 'shearing subframe bolts'

It's not the subframe bolts shearing. Renault in their wisdom make little alcoves in the body shell. Into these they put nuts tacked to shaped bits of metal that lock when the subframe bolts are screwed into them. Fast forward 8 years, when your friendly mechanic goes to do your clutch, these are rusty as fuck and just start spinning in the alcove as the tacks have broken. It is impossible to get any sort of locking device into the alcove, so you have to grind the bolts off. Usually all 4, then prize the nut combo out of the alcove. That adds £80 to the cost and another couple of hours labour. How do I know? Fuckin meganes are the same. Last time I had to drop a subframe, I seam welded around the whole nut on the replacement, to stop it happening again, even though it will never be replaced before being weighed in!

 

Sent from my HUAWEI M2-A01W using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Ford Mondeo mk3 fuel pump replacement, quotes to replace were more than the car is worth, due to what you have to do, did it myself in the end, but it has since developed a fuel starvation fault, so is now being SORN'd so I can work out the next plan of attack, which may involve scrapping the fucker!

  • Like 1
Posted

Used pump due to funds car will run fine for a while shen suddenly the pump gets louder, and the car coughs and splutters & cuts out, first run we managed about 2 & a bit miles, but had to be towed home, started fine again to park it up, a strange one

Posted

Used pump due to funds car will run fine for a while shen suddenly the pump gets louder, and the car coughs and splutters & cuts out, first run we managed about 2 & a bit miles, but had to be towed home, started fine again to park it up, a strange one

Very likely that’s your problem then. A new pumps £37 delivered so it’s hardly worth the risk on a used one.

Posted

I am well versed in Mondeo mk3 fuel pump woes, similar symptoms but not identical - mine would drive fine for a while and then the pump would get louder and heat up and the car would lose power above 4000 rpm - It would just hit a brick wall and refuse to rev above it. Eventually this would get worse until it would barely go above idle. Stop the engine for a few seconds or leave it overnight and it would go again for a while.

 

Had the first pump replaced, was fine for a few weeks and then it happened again with exactly the same symptoms, turns out garage #1 hadn't cleaned out the tank as I'd asked. Garage #2 replaced the pump again and did clean the tank and found no end of detritus in there, the fuel they drained out looked like real ale

 

My theory was/is that debris was collecting around the pickup gauze filter and gradually restricting flow, when you turned it off the debris dropped away and it was able to draw fuel through again. After the 2nd pump was fitted and the tank cleaned it has been fine for the last 30k miles.

 

Probably not what you want to hear because it means dropping the tank, which if I recall was what you tried to avoid in the first place.

Posted

Of course, I may have just had two faulty pumps, but the contamination theory seems to fit better with the fact that turning it off, even momentarily, would clear it for a short while.

 

Because the initial symptoms only happened high in the rev range it's possible you wouldn't notice them unless you were hooning it. There were no misfires, spluttering, engine management lights, it just would not rev above ~4000rpm.

Posted

It's not the subframe bolts shearing. Renault in their wisdom make little alcoves in the body shell. Into these they put nuts tacked to shaped bits of metal that lock when the subframe bolts are screwed into them. Fast forward 8 years, when your friendly mechanic goes to do your clutch, these are rusty as fuck and just start spinning in the alcove as the tacks have broken. It is impossible to get any sort of locking device into the alcove, so you have to grind the bolts off. Usually all 4, then prize the nut combo out of the alcove. That adds £80 to the cost and another couple of hours labour. How do I know? Fuckin meganes are the same. Last time I had to drop a subframe, I seam welded around the whole nut on the replacement, to stop it happening again, even though it will never be replaced before being weighed in!

 

Sent from my HUAWEI M2-A01W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

See also: Mark 4 Golf wishbone captive nuts.

Posted

It’s likely on something from a scrapyard it could have anything in there. When I’ve weighed stuff in I’ve slung all sorts of shit in the tank to get rid of it.

 

Wouldn’t go to the extreme of dropping the tank, I’d buy a new pump and filter, check there is no crap sat in there and I’d say you should be ok. I’d be mindful a severely blocked in line filter will burn out the pump over time, they’re only about £3-4 on trade anyway. Piece of piss to fit as well.

 

If you wanted to save a few bob you can buy overhaul kits for the pump.

Posted

It’s likely on something from a scrapyard it could have anything in there. When I’ve weighed stuff in I’ve slung all sorts of shit in the tank to get rid of it.

 

Wouldn’t go to the extreme of dropping the tank, I’d buy a new pump and filter, check there is no crap sat in there and I’d say you should be ok. I’d be mindful a severely blocked in line filter will burn out the pump over time, they’re only about £3-4 on trade anyway. Piece of piss to fit as well.

 

If you wanted to save a few bob you can buy overhaul kits for the pump.

 

It sounds like the pump, but as an aside, when there's any doubt I work from the back forwards. Rough running on a Jag MK2 I had was crap in the tank. The tank was removed, cleaned and resealed (using a kit from Frost) and it did the job.

Posted

Job's I wish I hadn't taken on is this poxy Scenic stuck on my ramp. It was borderline on getting repaired due to cost and now the supplied clutch is wrong and the correct one is 30 quid dearer which I am going to have to swallow. Still it keeps another Scenic on the roads as they are fast disappearing.

  • Like 1
Posted

Very likely that’s your problem then. A new pumps £37 delivered so it’s hardly worth the risk on a used one.

Cheapest I found was £42 delivered, but zero comeback if they send the wrong one, proper pumps are 3 figures, not the cheap Chinese ones that are on ebay

Posted

A new aftermarket pump is going to be better than some clapped out genuine pump from the breakers.

 

I’d just double check the part is correct and you should be fine. I don’t really see what your alternative is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...