Splitting Automatic gearbox from an engine

[cobblers]

I've got to change the engine in my T25 this weekend. I've never dealt with a slushbox before.

I realise there's a flexplate and a torque converter, these are bolted together.

 

Do I just take the engine-box bolts out and pull, and the torque converter pops out of the gearbox and spunks fluid everywhere?

 

Or is there a hidden hole for me to remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts?

 

[dollywobbler]

My entire knowledge of this is based on Roadkill, but I'm pretty sure they have to undo more than just engine bolts when they're mucking about with engine swaps. 

[BavarianRetro]

No, no, no don't do that.

 

You need to find the way to unbolt the torque convertor from the flex plate, then undothe bellhousing bolts and take the torque convertor out inside the gearbox.

[cobblers]

Righto! That's what I needed to know, seems obvious now.

[Asimo]

Usually the flexplate to torque converter bolts are accessible through the starter motor hole on older VW/Audi. Use a ratchet strap and a block of wood to stop the converter falling off the 'box.

 

Just had a look at the Haynes for the aircooled version ''79 - 82 and it refers to a grommet in the crankcase.

[cobblers]

I'll probably be doing most of the job on my own with trolley jacks and swearing and deep muscle damage, so the ratchet strap plan is a good one. I presume you split the engine/box just a few mm then slide the strap in before completely separating them?

[Pillock]

Last time I did this with some chap from Retro Rides on his massive great big American thing, it took me four days to get ATF out of my hair because I spent quite some time lying on the floor in a pool of it. We used three trolley jacks and a selection of 2x4 offcuts.

 

Last time I did this on something rear engined, it turns out T2 with slushboxes have a shaft between engine and box that feels like it's actually longer than the van, and if you just keep pulling the engine it'll be all the way out of the van, still on the shaft, and then you'll bend this shaft by bouncing the engine up and down on it and it'll muller the gearbox to death when you put it back together with a wonky shaft. I think I got ATF in my hair that time too.

 

I appreciate this isn't helpful. 

[Asimo]

Of course with the flat 4 the starter is on the gearbox side hence the access hole in the crankcase.

 

I'd strap the converter as soon as I could, there is enough to think about wiggling the engine out without worrying about expensive, delicate and surprisingly heavy torque converters full of oil rolling off down the street.

[Mally]

There is a pipe below the auto box, filler maybe? Can't remember.

Be careful not to damage it. Ours has been damaged and bodged repaired by someone.

 

Not saying this is how to do it but I've left the torque converter bolted up and dragged the box straight off on other models of autos.

Mind you some of them were scrap. As said, fluid everywhere.

[AMC Rebel]

Thanks for this thread - probably going to do this on my AMC soon so good to know that like everything I try it will be harder than I expected.