For Sale Less modern laguna.. For SALE! Terrible price, £200, you have until monday at 9am to stake a claim!

[beko1987]

That's both cars that are worse than before I started... Maybe it's a sign.

 

Hopefully I've put a pad in skew, or moving the pistons reminded it that it hates life. Or since one caliper is a replacement this one is now due.. Its having its arse dragged to marlow and back tomorrow regardless!

[beko1987]

A whole second hand caliper is £20 posted from ebay, so if a quick fettle doesn't fix it ill just put a new one on!

[Kiltox]

It's probably confused at being shown some love rather than being flogged to death with no water in

[Guest Hooli]

A whole second hand caliper is £20 posted from ebay, so if a quick fettle doesn't fix it ill just put a new one on!

 

With a bit of shopping around you can get a whole spare goona for that!

[Kiltox]

With a bit of shopping around you can get a whole spare goona for that!

With knackered rear bushes and about half a tonne of dirt on the weird metallic beige-green paint, I heard

[Guest Hooli]

With knackered rear bushes and about half a tonne of dirt on the weird metallic beige-green paint, I heard

 

Top of the range that! most don't have the power to move that much dirt.

[beko1987]

I pulled over just before the motorway and checked the wheel, it was quite hot. So I deployed my caliper unseizing kit much to the odd looks of 3 people walking by, and carried on. 17 miles later at mums it was almost cold! I'll keep an eye on it, I do have all the tools I need to strip it down at the side of the road just in case, will try and have a look one evening this week.

 

I took the handbrake off at mums so it can sit off for the day, it didn't like that, beeping loudly and flashing the dash until I shut the door...

[beko1987]

Just ordered a second hand caliper to get back on the road reliably. Then I'll strip the old caliper down just because I've always fancied stripping a caliper down, and without the fear of HAVING to get it back together, it'll be fun! I reckon either the piston is shitted up, or the handbrake lever is seized, been reading some threads on the subject.

 

If it all comes apart nicely then I may even buy a rebuild kit and re-fit it to the car, would be worth £20 to be able to drive to work for the next week or so.

[beko1987]

Fugging £100 from ECP with discount for Lemforder inner tie rods and cheapy ocap track rod ends. Lemforder TRE's take it to near £160... Plus a tenner for the tool

 

Hate to say it guys but it might be the £35 cheapy ebay set for now, then when I am a bit more flush/it goes again I'll upgrade them. I can't loose sight that this is a 2.2dci with the reliable* autobox... And even cheap parts will improve it's chances of an MOT pass. Plus the job is always easier the second time round. The ZX had cheap bushes and parts all round and it was always fine (bar me replacing a ball joint again to diagnose the steering which turned out to be the steering column UJ)

 

Otherwise I'll have no money for fuel, which would defeat the object of replacing it all then not being able to drive it/come to SF

[SiC]

Is the caliper for the 2.2dci? IIRC, the v6 and 2.2dci share similar parts which are different to other models. Probably because they're bigger and beefier due to the added weight.

[SiC]

Worn/play in inner tie rods is very much a Renault thing of this era. All the models suffer from it.

[beko1987]

Is the caliper for the 2.2dci? IIRC, the v6 and 2.2dci share similar parts which are different to other models. Probably because they're bigger and beefier due to the added weight.

The listing says so, plus it looks identical. The rears are smaller than the fronts too so maybe the rears are all one standard size? It's from ebay, so the roulette wheel is spinning!

[beko1987]

Well that hasn't gone well! No caliper change has happened mainly because I can't get the handbrake cable out of the current caliper, despite beating it as much as I dared. Plus the new caliper is possibly more seized than what's fitted, I couldn't move the piston at all!

 

So I cleaned it up, worked it a bit more and it's still sticking. However a smack with a hammer loosened it up every time. Not sure what it's problem is really, but short of fitting a new handbrake cable so I can rip the old one with it I'm not sure what plan b is.

 

Hopefully general driving will shock it loose every time, ill keep the hammer in the boot... I also sprayed up the shock absorber top bolts for when I change the rear bushes in a few months...

[Hendry]

And thats why I take my car to a garage for stuff like this, yes it costs a lot more and theres no sense of achievement like when you repair something yourself, but unless its a simple fix, garage it is, the cost is worth it for the lack of stress, getting wound up and the risk of kicking a huge dent in the bodywork in sheer frustration or ending up in a straitjacket. Some things are so stupidly awkwardly designed and fitted you wonder how the fuck they actually managed to build them in the factory!

[Guest Hooli]

Plan B sounds like a proper recon calliper. You might as well strip down the 'new' one you've got n have a go, worst that happens is you bodge it back together as the one to hand in against the recon.

[twosmoke300]

At least you have another caliper to send back as exchange now if you get a new one . You can cut the bit that holds the handbrake cable now .

[beko1987]

I messaged the ebay seller, and to their credit their sending another caliper out! So that's cool. Twosmoke, I didn't think of cutting the old caliper to get the handbrake cable out, that's genius! I'll wait for the new one to come and check its ok, then bite the bullet and get the hacksaw out

[beko1987]

After having a mild sulk that the estimated arrival of my parts was next tuesday, leaving no time to fit them before SF, the inner tie rods and TRE's were at work waiting for me when I arrived! Hopefully the removal tool will turn up tomorrow, if not I'll have a go with mole grips and a hammer...

 

I tried to bend the parts over my knee and they did not move, so hopefully they will be fine, even if it's just for the short term, as long as it's an improvement for SF and holiday later in the month that's fine by me! For £34 delivered for the lot I'll take the risk. The parts are in an APH Automotive box... I just need to be careful to not piss the tracking about, do I just count threads? I might try and leave the old TRE's on so I can use them as a guide, but I don't know how in the way they will get removing the inner, so counting might have to do.

 

The rear wheel was only slightly warmer than the rest when I got to work, hopefully that will behave until the new new caliper arrives.

[Sir Snipes]

What tool do I need for these inner tie rods then? I've found a few types on ebay:

 

1 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-inch-Tie-Rod-Wrench-27-42mm-Universal-Steering-Track-Rod-Removal-Garage-Tool-/252030027444?hash=item3aae2906b4:g:JpwAAOSw4CFY4eb9

 

2 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Steering-Rack-Tie-Rod-Knuckle-End-Track-Axial-Joint-Removal-Tool-28-35mm-/361899566849?hash=item5442e52701:g:l3EAAOSwu4BVlqDx

 

or none of the above? Still working on parts, I called Renault Slough, my local dealer but got bored if it ringing for 10 minutes so sent them an email instead.

It just depends on access. I'm assuming the inner rod has a straight edge at the ballpoint so you can turn it with a spanner or grips, in which case that's all you need, if you can get them on there.

Manufacturers pretend you need all sorts of special tools but 9 times out of 10 it isn't necessary.

[beko1987]

It just depends on access. I'm assuming the inner rod has a straight edge at the ballpoint so you can turn it with a spanner or grips, in which case that's all you need, if you can get them on there.

Manufacturers pretend you need all sorts of special tools but 9 times out of 10 it isn't necessary.

I dunno, reading around lots of forums, there are flats on the inner tie rod (and there are on the new ones) but access is impossible, and their narrow flats so normal spanners may not work. I bought something that slides over the inner rod down to the end, then with an extension bar inserted as you turn it part of it rotates and clamps it, then cracks it off.

[Guest Hooli]

Counting the turns should work, but double check by measuring from a fixed point further up the steering to the ball joint if you can.

 

Do they have a nut to lock them against? if so you can do the new one up to the nut & it should be correct if you don't move the nut.

[beko1987]

Huzzah, another caliper has arrived, and straight away it looks better, the main piston boot isn't held on with rust, nor does it have a massive tear. Moving the handbrake lever with my fingers also gives a glimmer of piston movement too... Promising, I won't get excited yet though. Time to purchase a hacksaw

 

AND, it has the anti rattle spring with the pad carrier, which is good as I snapped mine, one end was seized in...

[beko1987]

Huzzah, another caliper has arrived, and straight away it looks better, the main piston boot isn't held on with rust, nor does it have a massive tear. Moving the handbrake lever with my fingers also gives a glimmer of piston movement too... Promising, I won't get excited yet though. Time to purchase a hacksaw

 

AND, it has the anti rattle spring with the pad carrier, which is good as I snapped mine, one end was seized in...

 

Counting the turns should work, but double check by measuring from a fixed point further up the steering to the ball joint if you can.

 

Do they have a nut to lock them against? if so you can do the new one up to the nut & it should be correct if you don't move the nut.

 

There is a nut on the new ones, only spun onto the ends of the threads though. I'll measure everything and work to that, that's a good idea! The tracking is slightly out as it is, which I need to get done but as long as it's close enough that will be fine for now!

[Guest Hooli]

I couldn't think where the nuts where or which bit was male/female tbh.

 

I have a tendency to tweak tracking myself anyway based on...

 

too much self centering = excessive toe in

not enough self centering = lack of toe in

 

never seems to be far out when I finally get it checked.

[beko1987]

We could have a go at tracking it up at SF if you like! I've never messed with tracking tbh. The steering wheel points slightly to the right, and it does pull right slightly too, but not enough to truly bother me. Tyres are wearing evenly. As long as I can get it to as it is now that's fine by me!

[Guest Hooli]

Wheel slightly to right - shorten the RH track rod & lengthen the LH one (by the same amount) UNLESS the steering is in front of the wheel's pivot, then reverse it.. Most cars seem to be about 1/2" of wheel per turn if memory serves, but I've not done it since I had a Jag about four years ago.

[beko1987]

Well what have I learnt today? That I'm fucking awful at setting tracking, and an ESP fault causes the gearbox to not change out of 2nd...

 

So what have I been doing today? Well, first I fitted the new new rear caliper,which went quite well. The bloke next door helped me bleed it, and braking was restored. Except it still stuck on... I got a bit angry, and smacked it several times as hard as my swing could manage. Clouds of shite came off, and after 4 rounds of brake, stick on, SHAMCK THE CUNT, brake, stick on etc it seems to be a bit better now...

 

That job done, I decided to tackle the front tie rods. The gaitor is held on with a metal band deep behind the engine, so I got a long screwdriver and twatted it hard until it snapped. The tie rod and track rod came out as one, because the track rods were well seized on, so I hacksawed them in half to get the gaitors off, as my kit did not come with new ones. Doing the passenger side, I had the steering hard right to push the box out as far as it would. Water pump pliers cracked off the UJ easily, and off it spun, and my fuck was it floppy! New tie rod in, then the track rod end. I even took a photo of this, but CBA to upload it comparing the nut position, and copied it exactly. Job done, wheel back on, full lock to the other side, same again. Ace!

 

Except it wasn't. I packed everything away, got cleaned up then went for a test drive. The steering felt proper odd, wouldn't self centre and just fucked up. I got onto the bypass outside our estate and after 30mph the ESP fault message came up and boom, limp mode! Fucksticks. Turned into the other end of our estate and back home. Upon centring the steering wheel, I noticed that the wheels were pointing properly on the piss, noticable from standing infront of the flipping car... So back off with them one at a time, and tweaked (drivers side had to come out, passenger side in) until it looked OK by eye. Another test drive confirmed that the ESP fault buggared off, and I had only slightly fucked up the position of the steering wheel, but having driven the ZX for 3 years with a pissed wheel, that doesn't bother me too much, tracking will be done next month. 

 

But what's that massive clonking from the front passenger side? Ah yes, the bottom ball joint is fucked... Which will need a grinder cos it's the original... How hard is a gooner2 wishbone to take out? Hopefully it's at the slight movement stage atm and not the falling off stage...

 

So, not a terribly successful day, made even worse by the fact it's my brother in laws birthday today, and he's having a bbq this afternoon, with much booze. Amy went at 2.30 to pick her mum up, just as I was calling the passenger side wheel a cunt. So now I have to drive myself and not drink. Still, at least I can check nothing falls off before I get on the M40 tomorrow morning. I'll keep the AA card handy...

 

And the fucking caramel interior is a prick when your working, I need to clean it all with a baby wipe or 9 before i go anywhere, the steering wheel, start button, shifter and handbrake lever are all black.

 

ARSE

[Guest Hooli]

Sounds a typically successful* day when working on shite.

 

Sort the ball joint before the tracking won't ya.

[beko1987]

No chance, it's almost undrivable at the moment, and won't get the ball joint done before sf or holiday. Infact my shitefest money is being spent tomorrow on tracking...

[Kiltox]

National tyres used to have a voucher on their website for £15 tracking if it helps - assume they will do still (you need to sign up for their email newsletter)

 

Don't fuck about with knackered ball joints though - not pretty when they let go.