beko1987 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Posted March 24, 2017 That's the one (I'm pretty sure). I'll change the coolant too whilst changing the stat since I'll be halfway there, and preventative maintenance and all that. Is there a drain tap on the radiator does anyone know?
SiC Posted March 24, 2017 Posted March 24, 2017 Just checked the coolant and not a drop used. Which is nice. Queuing up for fuel earlier the needle went to the normal mark and the heaters got hot! It held that all the way home too. I also took advantage of my shitty hoover videos putting me back in the black by going £68.69 back into the red for 58l of fuel.(get paid Thursday so I'm only borrowing it from myself) After reaching the heady heights of 1,132 miles of range after I reset the computer it settled down to 670,which would be nice!Nice! I have the same sized tank and it usually tells me (an optimistic) 350 miles range. beko1987 1
beko1987 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Posted March 24, 2017 I have no idea what the actual range is, will try not to drive it unusually fast and see what it does! Xantia used to do 550/600 miles to 50 litres, and I don't think that was much more economical real world (goona showed 37mpg over the last few days. Showing 44 atm but I wafted home and haven't driven it again yet, so I'm ignoring that)
beko1987 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Posted March 24, 2017 Just moved my car ready to try and out our old bed in it to take it to the tip tomorrow (parked behind the gate whilst it was clear) and encountered the brake thing for the first time. It's quite strange. Takes a heavy shove on the pedal to slow. Reverse was fine though.
SiC Posted March 24, 2017 Posted March 24, 2017 Does it happen from repeated heavy usage of the brake boost in a short period?
Kiltox Posted March 24, 2017 Posted March 24, 2017 Does it happen from repeated heavy usage of the brake boost in a short period?Yes. Never a problem in stop start traffic, only parking. Can consistently recreate it by pumping the pedal when stationary
SiC Posted March 24, 2017 Posted March 24, 2017 It's gotta surely be either a vac leak or vac pump not pumping strongly enough?
beko1987 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Posted March 24, 2017 It's never ever done it yet, but ive always driven off before braking. Tonight, I fired it up, moved 3 spaces with no throttle then stopped. It seems fixable, but if it only happens rarely, then meh.
Guest Hooli Posted March 24, 2017 Posted March 24, 2017 Just to back up what SiC said, the Saab does the same about revs dropping right down at 40ish when you lift off. most newer autos I've driven do much the same. If you want engine braking just pop it in M & flick the switches on the wheel, I've been using that a lot the last couple of days for engine braking down hill.
beko1987 Posted March 25, 2017 Author Posted March 25, 2017 Just popped our old bed to the tip, and had a tinker whilst putting the seats back up. Switched the switched and perm live around on the head unit to see if that made it remember stuff, it didn't. Not sure if it's the rubbish head unit or car wiring. Had a quick shufty underneath too, it's very very clean, which is nice. Did spot an undertray though, never had a car with one of those before Also had a look and failed to spot a fuse by the obd port.
Kiltox Posted March 25, 2017 Posted March 25, 2017 The head unit was remembering radio presets so you've probably made it not do that now It is a rubbish unit though
beko1987 Posted March 25, 2017 Author Posted March 25, 2017 Still remembers those. Myself and a colleague sat in it earlier waiting for our work pissup with the sunshine roof open smoking fags and drinking beer, it was lovely! Off to get very very drunk now, bye bye car
beko1987 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 Well this is still going well. Despite it scaring the shit out of me earlier by beeping for me to put the handbrake on as I pulled away from home (door was open...). However, I thought I would take precautions and treat myself... This is probably the only time I'll ever say that I spent £120 and hope to never have to use it! Also bought a cheap centre console trim as it came with a good hazard switch and cupholder which I'll fit to my cream one.
oldcars Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 AA membership and a new hazard switch, the goona owners best friends Pillock, purplebargeken and beko1987 3
Kiltox Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 Should've went with Autoaid, true shiter cover egg, Rusty_Rocket, barefoot and 1 other 4
beko1987 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 Should've went with Autoaid, true shiter coverYea but they require payment as it happens, which I will never have on me, so it's a gamble I did not want to take.
Kiltox Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 I've been recovered several times without paying but I get what you're saying barefoot 1
beko1987 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 I've killed the head unit I think... With my phone holder screwed to the faceplate, the head unit rattles forward over time. Never an issue. Until on the way home, when I pushed it back and it turned off... It's not blown the fuse, and I don't think it's shorted out the wiring, but I'm stumped! I thought I'd do fault finding, so had the wiring out to check, and I can't find 12v anywhere, although I think I was probing the wrong wires The fuse on the head unit is fine, so I've either killed it or killed the car... But everything works fine on the car. One thing I found is this Which apparently should have a fuse in it. But I'm scared to fit one, so probably won't for now... Anyone know where to prod to get 12v out of a wire? Once I see that I'll be happier that it's the radio and not the car. Going to be a quiet drive to somerset if I don't get it fixed!
beko1987 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 Or, what's the earth wire colour, so I can hook one side of the meter uo to that and just find 12v
SiC Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 I took this picture the other day. The fuse holder looks awfully like the fuse holder you found above.
SiC Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 One of those bullet connectors on the iso adapter should be 12v live and the other 12v switch.
Pillock Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 Them ISO connections are standard, the wire colours in your picture looks standard too.The connectors look the same but one has an offset release arm.
SiC Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 Or, what's the earth wire colour, so I can hook one side of the meter uo to that and just find 12vUse the car body? Usually a bolt in the door jam should be usable. beko1987 1
SiC Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 Them ISO connections are standard, the wire colours in your picture looks standard too.The connectors look the same but one has an offset release arm. Some car manufacturers (forget which...) need the constant live and ignition/switched over.
Pillock Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 Yeah, Beko has done that - the red and yellow go to yellow and red. There's some weird stuff going off with the red from the car side, it looks like it feeds back off the plug towards the car loom to a bullet splitter? Might be worth putting it all back - yellow to yellow, red to red, and make sure there's nothing plugged back into itself.
beko1987 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 I've tried all combinations of the connectors, it worked both ways before too. Bloody good shout on using a random bolt for Earth, didn't think of that! I'll have a probe over the weekend and see! I'd imagine whatever fuse runs the wires runs a million other things, and ive not found anything that doesn't work yet... None of the fuses under the drivers side of the dash is broken though. Not sure I have the balls to fit a fuse to the ashtray bit though, maybe that's why the obd doesn't work...
SiC Posted March 30, 2017 Posted March 30, 2017 99% sure that fuse holder is for the OBD port. Continuity check between the OBD power pin and the pin on the fuse holder that isn't live.
beko1987 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 Well, I feel a little bit silly The fuse with the picture of the telephone had gone pop. Replaced it and voila, one working radio! I did take some pictures but none have come out, so we shall re visit that, bit there is no permanent live in that bit of loom... There's one chopped wire that emits about 2v with the ignition off, apart from that, it's all switched. Where can I take a perm live to feed a radio from? What's alive all the time and beefy enough? I extended the short red wire that caused all this issue with some crimps and 1960's hoover supressor cable, and put it all together. Then I took a deep breath and fitted a fuse to the obd fuse... And it works! My obd reader doesnt like oh no renault, or I didn't do the insert cars, hold start for 10 seconds thing right, but torque found a fault code... The cars never said there was an issue, so I cleared it and packed up. Job jobbed, but I need a perm live to make the radio work properly... Eddie Honda 1
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