workshop, what heat and light?

[drum]

I believe they come up quite frequently.

This is the anniversary of one I had years ago so maybe the system works that way.

 

If you need anything then let me know as there is an online code!

Tickman, are you able to order online with a discount? I'm going to be buying the Kielder cordless grinder to go with the Kielder batteries etc I already have. Vat free is always nice!

[cros]

My workshop is an old tin-roofed farm shed with solid brick walls that would hold 4 cars if it wasn't an shitty mess. I picked up some 25mm thick foil backed polyurethane sheets cheap and put them under the roof. Though way below the recommended thickness it makes a huge difference and eliminates those times when you get a change of temperature and everything metal is wringing wet.

I don't try to heat the whole place, just use an infrared electric fire that I was told only heats people. If the temperature becomes so low that I can no longer function I go to the pub and no longer function there instead.

Lights are anything I've picked up that's bright- 12v led tapes work well if you buy decent quality efficient ones, stick them along a knackered fluorescent is easy fix.

[Tickman]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far, I think I have decided what I will start with.

I will get one of those infra red heaters as it is when I first start that is the problem.

If this does not make a noticeable difference then a woodburner will be next on the look out for cheap!

 

Anyone have any links to changing fluorescent tubes to LEDs?

It cannot be that hard.

[michael1703]

My workshop is 100ft long,22ft wide and about 5 metre head hight.

 

The last couple of winters have been ok without heat but I bought one of these in 2010 when we had cold weather for months.

 

 

it was about £1200 and the most cumbersome lump to manoeuvre about, it's got two stages which was about 20kw and 45kw.

 

I sold it in the end as it drank so much red diesel, it was doing about £20-£30 a day.

[forddeliveryboy]

Unless you do a good insulation job, the amount of heat needed to raise the air temp by just a degree or so is enormous so I'd suggest a small room made inside the workshop which you can heat to 20C and which will soon warm you through if you get cold doing less physical work - wiring, for example.

 

The heaters which blow warm air in or something like the one above are ok for emergencies but cost too much to use for a couple of months, the doors have to be left open wide if you don't want poisoning.

 

Unless you're always working in the same little area then a heat sourceneeds to be portable and heat you, not the air. I've used one of these before, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Propane-Gas-Bottle-Mounted-Space-Heater-Warmer-10-250-15-354-Btu-hr-LP13-/370454781223?hash=item5640d35d27:g:OX0AAOSwmUdUWffb, very effective and doesn't use stupid amounts of gas. 

 

I also made a sawdust burner like this one, it's very efficient, silent and runs all day without restoking. I've no picture, but heated the boxed-off space as needed by blowing air over the stove and into a large pipe which led into the room. 

 

[cros]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far, I think I have decided what I will start with.

I will get one of those infra red heaters as it is when I first start that is the problem.

If this does not make a noticeable difference then a woodburner will be next on the look out for cheap!

 

Anyone have any links to changing fluorescent tubes to LEDs?

It cannot be that hard.

You can buy expensive led tubes, but I buy the self adhesive led tape and after removing the tube stick it on the underside of the fitting. Lots of choice of led drivers about, should be possible to pick out the ones that won't catch fire after 5 minutes, I've had one cheap one fail.

Is your workshop an old ww2 Nissan hut? When I was a boy there was an American Airbase behind my house and many of the buildings looked like those in your pic.

After the war squatters moved in and a new community known as 'Tintown' was born which lasted for 15 years until the council finally built proper houses for them.

It can't have been pleasant living in them- no insulation at all, just a layer of ceiling board over the corrugated sheeting. Wiring was via 2 thin cotton sheathed wires (no earth) which were carried on porcelain insulators to keep it from touching anything as the current escaped through the skimpy covering originally provided for a 110v supply. Really, all I've told you is how not to sort your electricity.

[AMC Rebel]

Is your workshop an old ww2 Nissan hut?

 

 

<pedant> Nissen hut </pedant>

 

Originally designed during World War I by engineer and inventor Major Peter Norman Nissen, 

[LC Torana]

In winter, I use a lot of 200W and 300W incandescent bulbs*.

 

Heat and light.

 

I know it's never anywhere near as cold as you experience, but it's a start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*I swap them out for big CFLs in summer.

[LC Torana]

<pedant> Nissen hut </pedant>

 

Originally designed during World War I by engineer and inventor Major Peter Norman Nissen, 

Fun fact:  I have a 1950s Kolster-Brandes radio, with a wooden cabinet made by Nissen.

[richardthestag]

you think you have problems! my workshop don't even have doors Tin roof and open on 1 1/2 sides, nice concrete floor. 

 

BUT I really like the idea of using the small lockup / Tool store as a heat refuge.

 

To be honest I am planning the jobs I need to do around the seasons. Interior refurb can be done inside, as can loom rebuild. Brake calipers can be done in the lock up with IR Heat lamps focused on me

 

Axle rebuilds will need to be done in the Barn when the sun shines and with extra layers of clothing.

 

Just need to get the body repairs done in the next week or so.. 110hours done and maybe 30 to go Yay

[Tickman]

I know I am mega lucky with the workshop which is why I am trying to sort out the bits that make it less inviting.

If I manage this I might actually make some progress with all the jobs on the ever increasing list!

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

Back in the day I used to work in an aircraft hanger put up in WW2.

Steel frame and crinkly tin and a concrete floor.

In one corner we had a wooden Hut about 10 by 8 foot that we had electric heating in to go and get "warm" in

- (it was often warmer to stand outside in the weather).

 

AnyHo,

At the work benches we had duck-boards to stand on - they made quite a difference.

A friend is using off cuts of vinyl floor covering in his workshop.

I have some old rubber mats in mine.

 

What I'm saying is insulation beneath you helps.

[Timewaster]

Long johns, several layers of clothes and a hat.

 

Sorted.

[Mally]

I use thermals, fleece with big coat on top of it, hat and gloves, the thin ones, sort of cotton on the back and coated on the front.

After a few minutes you forget you have the gloves on. No good for welding though!

[PhillipM]

you think you have problems! my workshop don't even have doors Tin roof and open on 1 1/2 sides, nice concrete floor.

 

A concrete floor is posh, we spent years on some raked gravel over the mud!