Help needed. Not free help... Cash paid...

[Bobthebeard]

If anyone is anywhere near to Dalbeattie in SW Scotland and is willing to help me out for actual money I would be grateful!

I have started the cambelt(s) change on my MG ZT KV6 and got as far as removing stuff and supporting the engine on a jack, but am royally struggling now. Bit out of my depth TBH. The car is at our static caravan and I will be there for a while during October. I have most of the tools needed and the parts, but limited knowledge/self confidence is now rearing it's head!

Car is on gravel next to the caravan so no garage facilities available but I do have the kit of Rover locking tools etc for the job.

[AMC Rebel]

Can't come (too far away) but having just done this on my ZT KV6, happy to chat about it.

[AMC Rebel]

Oh and not asking for any cash to talk obvs

[Bobthebeard]

Can't come (too far away) but having just done this on my ZT KV6, happy to chat about it.

Thanks! If no actual help is available then I will need your advice!

[AMC Rebel]

First tip is check you have the right locking tools - most kits are fine for the lower powered 2.0 and 2.5 V6 but the 190 needs different settings as it has different cams.

[AMC Rebel]

Also you should really use new bolts on the cam sprockets as they are single use stretch ones. Lots of good background on the 75zt forum.

[Bobthebeard]

First tip is check you have the right locking tools - most kits are fine for the lower powered 2.0 and 2.5 V6 but the 190 needs different settings as it has different cams.

They are the correct locking tools for the car, 2.5 V6 160. I read that the cam sprocket bolts can safely be re used if loctite 243 is applied.??

[Matt]

According to Google Maps I'm a nine minute drive away but if you are out of your depth, then I would be too. I can however offer a full plethora of my tools and if you need to order anything and have no address to use at the camp site you can have stuff sent here.

[AMC Rebel]

They are the correct locking tools for the car, 2.5 V6 160. I read that the cam sprocket bolts can safely be re used if loctite 243 is applied.??

Well I was just going by the book - have you seen this?

 

[Bobthebeard]

Well I was just going by the book - have you seen this?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fFx8SPiTSc

Thanks, yes have seen that, but it is based on the engine being out of the car. Mine is still in the car, so a tad more difficult really.

[Bobthebeard]

According to Google Maps I'm a nine minute drive away but if you are out of your depth, then I would be too. I can however offer a full plethora of my tools and if you need to order anything and have no address to use at the camp site you can have stuff sent here.

Thanks for that! Contact details would be appreciated.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I need to do the belts on my 45 V6 soon. Is there a crankshaft locking tool available? I always struggle to get the crankshaft pulley bolts undone on these cam belt jobs.

[Bobthebeard]

I need to do the belts on my 45 V6 soon. Is there a crankshaft locking tool available? I always struggle to get the crankshaft pulley bolts undone on these cam belt jobs.

Piss taking possibly?

😄

[5speedracer]

Mate told me this...

Plugs out and get a sharp Stanley knife. Turn engine using crank pulley and cut old belt lengthwise,ie in half. Cut front half off.

Loosen adjuster a bit and slide new belt onto front of pulleys until it meets old belt. Cut second half of old belt off. Slide new belt fully on and adjust tension. Voila!

 

Sent from my X17 using Tapatalk

[Matt]

Thanks for that! Contact details would be appreciated.

 

Dropped you a PM.

[r.welfare]

Mate told me this...

Plugs out and get a sharp Stanley knife. Turn engine using crank pulley and cut old belt lengthwise,ie in half. Cut front half off.

Loosen adjuster a bit and slide new belt onto front of pulleys until it meets old belt. Cut second half of old belt off. Slide new belt fully on and adjust tension. Voila!

 

Sent from my X17 using Tapatalk

Great idea if you're reusing the tensioners and idler pulleys, which you generally don't any more because it's made of chocolate.

[5speedracer]

Still could, tiewrap belt to other pulleys so timing remains correct.

 

Sent from my X17 using Tapatalk

[rainagain]

I think I've mentioned before what I normally do. Set the timing up, then mark each pulley with tipex and also mark the cambelt in the same place. Transfer the marks from the old cambelt to the new one. Then slip on the new one lining up all the marks. If the marks line up and you can't go wrong

[purplebargeken]

This is autoshite. It can ALWAYS go wrong.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Piss taking possibly?

 

 

No, it wasn't a piss take Bob!

[rainagain]

I used this method on my S80, it worked well as I didn't have the locking kit, the inlet cam rotated back a tooth as I removed the old belt, but I noticed it straight away as the marks on the new belt didn't line up.

[Guest Hooli]

I used this method on my S80, it worked well as I didn't have the locking kit, the inlet cam rotated back a tooth as I removed the old belt, but I noticed it straight away as the marks on the new belt didn't line up.

 

Wouldn't work on a newish ford, interferance fit pullies don't have keyways so the pulley bears no reference to the camshaft position.

[twosmoke300]

Or renaults , some peugeots and prob many more

[rainagain]

Wouldn't work on a newish ford, interferance fit pullies don't have keyways so the pulley bears no reference to the camshaft position.

Volvo was the same, I just didn't loosen them, I know you're supposed to, to correctly set the tension. I tie wrapped the belt onto both cam pulleys, then I rotated the crank back half a tooth to get the belt on the crank pulley then rotated it back again, this put slight tension on the belt. I then fed the slack round the tensioner. I figure the new belt and the old belt should be pretty much the same length so if there were X teeth between the two cam pulleys and Y teeth between the inlet cam pulley and crank pulley, this should be true of the new belt. I think the whole moving the cam pulleys independently of the cams is just there to make fitting the belt easier (if you have all the locking tools), as the belt will have even tension on it as you install it as apart from the crank pulley it is feel to move. i.e. one run won't have more tension that another giving a false reading on the tensioner. However once it's installed using either method it's easy enough to rotate the engine round a couple of times and adjust the tensioner.

[AMC Rebel]

Tippex method can work but presupposes it was done right last time.

 

The sprockets "float" on the KV6 too, but obvoiusly they won't move if you don't loosen em.

[AMC Rebel]

For Mr B and others, the offical(ish) crank pulley tool. I can't lend this to anyone as it isn't mine and it's overdue for return. A bloke on the Rover forum made his own.

 

 

 

[twosmoke300]

That looks very similar to a Honda crank locking tool

[AMC Rebel]

That looks very similar to a Honda crank locking tool

<ted> oh well now I woudln't know about that sir </ted>

 

I can measure this one before it goes back I guess

 

It might be handy if they are the same size.

[lisbon_road]

I always undo the crank bolt on the starter.  I thought it sounded dodgy, but when I tried it, it worked so well, I was convinced.  Put a bit of wood under a breaker bar.  And certainly do not (as I have seen!) hold onto the bar!  Just stand well back, tough the starter, job done.

 

There is a crank locking tool for my Astra engine which works if the engine is out.  

[rainagain]

I had to do this on the S80 as the crank nut was not for undoing, I'd read some people resorting to grinding it off. A quick flick of the starter, which made a horrible noise and it was loose. I just rested the breaker bar against the garage floor. Some people advise leaving a gap between the breaker bar and the floor to allow the crank to build up a bit of momentum before the bar makes contact.