Advice on outdoor painting / rustproofing products on a budget!

[Burnside]

Right then,

 

Hopefully after me moaning alot previously about the lack of coinage etc to get my beloved Cavalier fixed ! I'm finally getting it welded shortly. So it's with Al Bundy awaiting a serious battle to address the rust issues that have been keeping it off the road.

 

Now the car will need some money spending on the brake pipes and any other issues from possibly been stood for 18 months so by time all the above is sorted for a Mot there a good chance there won't be enough left to paint the car professionally where needed.

 

So as I don't want all the new metal work to rust away again. What would you recommended is my best option for a temporary paint protection for outer body panels say 6- 12 mths max as the car will be used daily again including winter on a sub £100 budget? 

 

An also there a few scabs underneath that could do with addressing before winter as well as some underbody welding repairs that will be carried out so as mentioned the car may have to be driven through all the dreaded salt / crap so again whats best to use and protect my car underneath? 

 

All this will have to be done outside on a driveway and I have no access to spraying equipment so this will have to be all applied with brushes or spray cans.

 

Cheers and no I don't want to rat look / matt black my Cav! 

 

[steveo3002]

big tin of jotun jotamastic ....good as it gets

[Burnside]

big tin of jotun jotamastic ....good as it gets

 

 

Had originally thought a big tin red oxide = sorted. 

[mrbenn]

I'd suggest Bilt Hamber for the underneath. Decent stuff, lasts well and comes in a spray can with long hose attachment to get to sills etc.

 

Glad to hear the Cav is returning to the road, one of my all time favourite cars

[Burnside]

I'd suggest Bilt Hamber for the underneath. Decent stuff, lasts well and comes in a spray can with long hose attachment to get to sills etc.

 

Glad to hear the Cav is returning to the road, one of my all time favourite cars

 

Thank's for the suggestion mrbenn and thank's again for the kind comments. Memories of other people having Cav MK2/3's growing up is one of reasons I brought this one in the first place. 

[sierraman]

Aldi has Hammerite in at £5 a tin for sills etc.

[Vince70]

Our local pound shop has tins of fake hammerite for obviously a quid and I painted my gates with the stuff and it works a treat.

Also for rust protection you can use boiled linseed oil mixed with white spirit and spray the underside with it and just pour the stuff into an old cleaning spray bottle and it works as well as any waxoyl, it just take that bit longer to dry.

[Burnside]

Aldi has Hammerite in at £5 a tin for sills etc.

 

 

 

 

Our local pound shop has tins of fake hammerite for obviously a quid and I painted my gates with the stuff and it works a treat.

Also for rust protection you can use boiled linseed oil mixed with white spirit and spray the underside with it and just pour the stuff into an old cleaning spray bottle and it works as well as any waxoyl, it just take that bit longer to dry.

 

Thanks all, I'm quite liking the idea of driving round for a bit in a car with patchwork paint / primer patches etc. Family and neighbours will love it! Takes me back to the 90's when I was a kid, you used to see various Metro's, Fiesta's etc with various new panels fitted in primer awaiting payday so they could get a d.i.y or back street paintjob. 

[Tamworthbay]

Another vote for bilthamber stuff, not the cheapest but superb and cheaper than welding!

[Burnside]

Another vote for bilthamber stuff, not the cheapest but superb and cheaper than welding!

 

Thanks for suggesting there products too, I had tried to look on there site but had trouble accessing the page earlier in the week. 

 

It's gotta last now as can't afford to get it welded again in a hurry if it did! 

[Tamworthbay]

Thanks for suggesting there products too, I had tried to look on there site but had trouble accessing the page earlier in the week. 

 

It's gotta last now as can't afford to get it welded again in a hurry if it did!

 

One of the guys who set it up is called Peter Hamber and he cut his teeth in the North Sea oil industry. He is a top bloke and massively enthusiastic about keeping old cars rust free. I have spoken to him on a couple of occasions and his depth of knowledge is extensive to say the least.

[Burnside]

Hi all, thanks for all the advice on what best to use! Since having the car back from being welded last Friday eve I've had a go at tidying it up with mixed success! 

 

First off AS member Al Bundy who has carried out all the much needed weldage [Thanks  ] had applied red oxide over the welded areas on the outer bodywork for me. So I cleared it off to bare metal. Then appplied some Bilt Hamber Electrox to all the bare surface. Sadly it rained after that so had to wait a few days and in the meantime a few flash spots of rust appeared on the arch joins. So again these were cleaned up prior to me applying some filler to try and 'blend' the repairs togther. 

 

Now filler work and tbh car bodywork isn't my forte unfortantly so despite my best efforts or so I thought after applying a coat of black to protect my work so far it's clear that I'm miles off getting it looking in my view decent after spending 3 afternoons on it. Then to add insult while peeling masking tape off the offside rear door last night a nice strip of lacquer peeled off with it! 

 

So with that now needing spraying too it's getting way beyond my limited capabilitys and budget with a rattle can on the drive. Question is, should I just spray the rest in black and leave well alone till I can afford to pay someone else to do it right, or should I just try and carry on and paint it Metalic to try and blend it better to the car? 

 

Other thing is there no access to the inner arches from inside the car so looks like I'll have to drill into the wheelarch tubs from inside the boot to apply any rust protection from the welding to the new arch panels. 

 

Can anyone suggest maybe a kit or somthing where you have a drill bit with some matching sized bungs to seal the holes up with afterwards? 

 

Other thing is the underbody repairs have also been painted in red oxide followed by underseal. I've was going to strip that off but it's just clogging up my wire brush attachments for the drill plus I'm getting covered in the shite which isn't nice either working on a driveway so thinking I'm best off just applying more underseal as it's going to be alot easier. 

 

What you reckon people? 

[Split_Pin]

Dinitrol is good, 2 pack of cans with a long lance is about 25 quid from eBay.

[PhillipM]

I'd use Dynax S50 in the inner cavities - it comes with a long flexible spraying wand so you only need to drill a small hole to feed it through and it sprays 360* around the end of the wand so will get everywhere inside.
 You'll probably only need a 3-4mm hole, you could just leave that open, or a dab of polyurethane.

[mercrocker]

You'll see how far S50 goes when you withdraw the lance with your finger still on the button.   Also how resistant it is to water.....

[sierraman]

How long are you wanting it to last? I'd say the underseal stuff with added Waxoyl in the tins that cost about £6 would do the job. I know a lot of people say underseal will crack and peel off, but if you inspect it every year - as you should with any treatment, then it should last several years. Internally I'd use Waxoyl - £20 for 5 litres, again a lot of people complain about it but I don't know what they are doing, either putting it on wrong or giving the car an occasional bath in the Thames.

[alf892]

Owatrol is good stuff.......straight onto rust.......my pickup is about to get thoroughly coated.

 

I'd never under seal anything.....it is amazing how far water will travel under it and everything looks fine.

[Burnside]

Thanks everyone again for all the advice regarding the underseal in the arch cavities. I'll have to do some investigation on where best to drill in the boot to reach the inner arch areas once I've got the outside sorted and cleared out the boot. Only want to put a hole in each side if poss.

 

Also looks like I need to add some drainage / wax holes to the new sill as there none in there either. Just scared of making a cock up by drilling in the wrong place!

 

The other thing I want to check with is I left the outside repairs covered in Satin Black over the primer. Is that porous though as somebody I've spoke to reckons it is?

[Honey Badger]

The Bilt Hambler is great stuff, good adhesion and long lasting. Avoid Waxoyl like the plauge it's just not up to the job, water gets underneath it quickly and its bloody awful to use.