Tetroseal Wax Oil

[sierraman]

Anyone tried this stuff? In same sort of tin as Waxoyl but much thinner and easy to use. It's called Wax Oil as opposed to Waxoyl. Same colour etc but seems much more runny. Just emptied half a tin into the Focus Suspension mounts. So time will tell!!!

[Rocket88]

Tetroseal stuff is supposed to be pretty good...................

[Timewaster]

Really?

 

I've not tried wax oil but I found most tetrosyl stuff to be crap.

[forddeliveryboy]

It used to be good stuff at a reasonable price, seem to remember they altered the brew a while back and it went all milky from a darkish brown, not as good as was.

[themildbunch]

Don't you have to thin it with white spirit and only do it when it's warm?

 

I used the original stuff on my old saab and hated the smell... the Bilt Hamber stuff is much nicer / easier to use, is rated higher in tests and smells much nicer..

[sierraman]

70:30 with white spirit I used. Just sprayed on brilliant, left enough of the actual product on after the solvent evaporated. Focus had an advisory for the brake pipes and the fuel filler pipe, wire brushed down, 2 coats of Kurust and a coat of this should see it good. Whilst at it pumped it into the box sections under boot floor, strut tops and the inner arches. Also did key rust spots on mk2 Mondeo. Inner arches from boot side round the filler neck spot welds.

[Split_Pin]

I used it once but Dinitrol is 100% better.

 

2 cans with a BFO bendy 2 foot long lance for 25 quid or so from eBay does me nicely.

[PiperCub]

+1 For Dinitrol, that's what I use now - smell goes away after a couple of days unlike Waxoyl. 

[Bear]

My trick with this - I use Waxoyl clear - is to use rattlecans for surface areas like inner wings. You do heat 'em - but what I found worked really well was to spray, don't worry about it being all lumpy & stuff, just get lumps into the seams - then use a hairdryer to heat it and blow it into the seams and spaces. You get a smooth, shell-like finish like the old factory wax on VW Audi back in the '80s (remember the underbonnet waxing they did?) and it works well, but holds all the crap. I wash off and reapply after winter. Same under the arches and so forth - the SLK gathered all the crap on it, then one jetwash and boom, all gone - that's on top of the factory underseal & paint though. Could leave it with no harm at all, but it looked grotty

[The_Equalizer]

+1 For Dinitrol, that's what I use now - smell goes away after a couple of days unlike Waxoyl. 

 

Same for me after years with Waxoyl. It's more expensive, but far better.

[sierraman]

I've never Waxoyled an area and it go rusty afterwards, so it must work. These days I tend to just apply it thoroughly to the parts that are prone to rust, cars these days rarely rust the floors out or the inside of the bottoms of the doors. It's in the water traps, subframes and suspension mounts etc.

[PiperCub]

^^ Oh it works OK no question (though not as good as more modern products such as Dinitrol) but you do have to keep re-applying it every couple of years so the smell never really goes away in my experience. This was the case with my MGB GT, Vitesse & Midget (did that 3 or 4 times in my long ownership). 

 

Rather than thin it with white spirit, it's better to put the sprayer in a bucket of very hot water and spray it warm so it flows into all the gaps, it then cools and solidifies quickly. Prefer Dinitrol products as there's no real smell and application is way less of a faff with a proper sprayer/applicator (cost about £50 but worth every penny). 

 

I'd still use Waxoyl (still got some 'in stock'!) on sills etc on a hack but not inside doors where it'll stink out the interior. 

[stripped fred]

There are a few different types of dinitrol listed on eBay. Which one do people use?

[Tamworthbay]

Dynax s50 for cavities, dynax ub for underbody.

[jonny69]

Fred RERVYVAL

 

(I could have chosen the 2012 edition of this as an alternative. Thanks Google)

 

The aerosol cans of Waxoyl, do they have a spray nozzle like spray paint or a squirty tube like WD40? I'm thinking of doing the inside of a bike frame and a squirty tube affair would be good for shooting it down the tubes. I need to do the Anglia sills at some point as well and thinking I can cut a couple of holes in the door plates (as it would've had originally) and shoot a load down there.

[Split_Pin]

I get 2 aerosol cans of Dinitrol from ebay with a metre long flexible lance for about 25 quid. Did a whole car with those.

[jonny69]

^ That's the sort of thing I'm looking for. I can always extend the tube a bit.

[mercrocker]

 

The aerosol cans of Waxoyl, do they have a spray nozzle like spray paint or a squirty tube like WD40? I'm thinking of doing the inside of a bike frame and a squirty tube affair would be good for shooting it down the tubes. I need to do the Anglia sills at some point as well and thinking I can cut a couple of holes in the door plates (as it would've had originally) and shoot a load down there.

 

Everything Waxoyl supply to "apply" the product is rendered a complete waste of time by this product's refusal to flow under anything less than volcanic temperature.   The standard aerosol cans come with a laughable straw taped to the side like WD40.   Their spray applicator is basically a bit of old Eezi-Bleed with a nail in the end.....

 

If it were me I would get a can of Dynax D50 directly from them, order the applicator which is a long bendy tube with a proper outlet and if you run out get another can.   The tubes are re-useable after a white-spirit dousing.

 

I have found Dynax will spray in almost any ambient temperature (and creep visibly) as long as the can is immersed in hot water beforehand.   Honestly, don't waste your time with Waxoyl.....

[Des]

I've found that the procedure I follow yields identical results regardless of which product I buy, from the very cheapest to whatever fancily packaged overpriced offering is the current flavour. The first thing I do is place the can in a damp shed for around six to eight years by which time it will have began leaking where it's rusted around the base, I'll then invert it, and at some point in the following five years get pissed off with its continual toppling over / sticky mess and fuck it at a skip. To save time, I usually keep at least three cans staggered at varied stages of the process.