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A Valiant effort....


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Posted

Mines a generic screwfix 90 quid bag of arse with whatever wire I can find, it's utterly terrible. Constant live torch too, gr8++++100 for accidentally spot welding the engine block

Posted

On the 'grade, he can't catch you on the 'grade.

I thought Dennis Weaver shouts "you can't beat me on the drag" as in drag racing away from the lights.

Posted

Kicked off at 8.30 this morning and managed to get nearly all day on it. Works always dead at the end of Feb so trying to use my time wisely!

 

Enigine bay now the satin black has cured.

 

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Massive chunks of fibreglass pulled out of the boot floor, pigeon patches firmly in place now

 

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Gave the floor a good scrub , recoat the whole lot in waxoyl and painted the inside of the boot lid satin black

 

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Poked more holes in the floorpans

 

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Bunged some more scruffy patches in , once I'm more flush I'll be buying new floor pans, inner wings and stuff and get it done properly. Panels are 30-40 quid each.

 

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Posted

Your floor pans could be worse, this is what I'm neglecting to address on my 67 convertible. I have new floor pans for both sides but haven't found the time to get stuck in.

 

Passenger (Right hand side) front

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Passenger rear

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Trunk

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Here's my engine bay for reference

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and if you have any electrical problems then this should be your first port of call. Mopar's notoriously unreliable bulkhead connector.

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  • Like 9
Posted

In other news, Rewired the tailight earths, fitted a number plate light (from the spares pile, GM stamped part on a mopar... lol) 

Posted

EEK! Now THATS corrosion! Will check the bulkhead connector , have lost the 12v down to the oil pressure switch so the light doesn't come on. 

Posted

Feeding the pigeons again today....

Also made a new trunk lid support bracket (American yo!)

 

 

Once I'd finished "welding", all the surfaces have been treated to a thick coat of FLAG rust convertor paint. Brilliant product from toolstation , it's left nice shiny metal and a protective skin to paint over.

 

 

 

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Arrggh my eyes!!! Yeehah cowboy!!!

 

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In other news , ordered a new screnwash pump for £5 from the states. And the indicators are flashing pure white at the front, so I need twin filament orange bulbs.

Posted

Coming along nicely.

 

Not intended as a criticism, but when your welding the two steel surfaces to be joined must be as clean and shiny as possible. If there's even surface rust still there the weld won't penetrate well or 'flow' properly. It'll also spatter and fart as your going along. The rust doesn't conduct very well when the arc is struck and it contaminates the weld pool.

In the pics it looks like your trying to weld straight onto the rusty floor pan surface.

Posted

All advice welcome, I've never worked with anyone who could weld so it's all self taught through trial and (mostly) error. Its hard to see because of all the crap around it but I'd ground a border around the hole to stick the patch too, even welded a stud to the plate do the earth and that didn't take either just a pile of slag. Hate welding!!

  • Like 1
Posted

This ace. Absolutely ace. The finest in dull motoring from across the pond.

Posted

All advice welcome, I've never worked with anyone who could weld so it's all self taught through trial and (mostly) error. Its hard to see because of all the crap around it but I'd ground a border around the hole to stick the patch too, even welded a stud to the plate do the earth and that didn't take either just a pile of slag. Hate welding!!

Once you have picked it up a bit better Dave you won't look back.

  • Like 1
Posted

All advice welcome, I've never worked with anyone who could weld so it's all self taught through trial and (mostly) error. Its hard to see because of all the crap around it but I'd ground a border around the hole to stick the patch too, even welded a stud to the plate do the earth and that didn't take either just a pile of slag. Hate welding!!

It is just a case of plenty of practice and cleanliness.

As long as the welder is set up properly, and you have clean rust free surfaces it should get better with practice.

 

Speaking from personal experience, I'd recommend using gas instead of gas less wire. I've tried gas less and didn't get on with it. Once I started using a small regulator and disposable Co2 bottles I found my welding improved massively. The bottles and regulator aren't expensive and most gas less mig welders have the ability to run with gas if required.

 

Keep at it though, your cars fantastic and well worth the effort.

Posted

Hmm can't sit eating pies in it without someone taking a picture....hope its no one the wife knows....

Posted

New carpet for the front purchased from a mate who trims classic Jags and the like. £20 for a considerable amount. Will cut and fit tomorrow some time. Was hoping to get the seats done when we go on holiday, same mate has quoted £300 to retrim in black vinyl and restuff both benches, got to see how the £££ go.

 

Been driving it all over the area , any excuse!

  • Like 4
Posted

Today, my Mondeo did this during an mot:

 

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Which means it's got the usual Duratec 1800 issue of being terminally bollocksed.

 

So this happened (once I'd fitted* the carpet)

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Retro rush hour! Held its nerve very well in two hours of errand running. Treated it to a visit to Stateside auto parts for some amber turn signal bulbs and parked next to a c-body Fury. Poor Valiant looked lost, they are tiny for a yank!

  • Like 1
Posted

* all new coolant hoses fitted YET..... YKIMS!!

 

Epic hauliage

 

TS

Posted

Just pulled the old vinyl seat covers off, it's LIME GREEN cloth and black vinyl!! My god the original owner was either color* blind or so frickin' 70's he looked like Groove Champion from Interstate '76...epic mid 90's pc game..

Posted

Coolant hoses checked daily, apparently a weak point going up hills with a lorry behind! They are a bit nasty but it's sitting at 130F in 40 minute traffic jams so must be all good. The radiator is original Chrysler equipment and falling to bits so might get it recon'd.

Posted

Today, my Mondeo did this during an mot:

attachicon.gifIMAG0836.jpg

Which means it's got the usual Duratec 1800 issue of being terminally bollocksed.

So this happened (once I'd fitted* the carpet)

attachicon.gifIMAG0837.jpg

Retro rush hour! Held its nerve very well in two hours of errand running. Treated it to a visit to Stateside auto parts for some amber turn signal bulbs and parked next to a c-body Fury. Poor Valiant looked lost, they are tiny for a yank!

And people bang on about how good moderns are! Sell the Mondeo and run the Valiant I say!

Posted

Lime green cloth in an orange car is a BRILLIANT colour combination and cannot be faulted.  42/10

Posted

Bam! Amazon .com for the win. Pentronix electronic ignition kit from the 'states, chuck away the points etc and make it start/run better. £68 inc all shipping and duties.

 

In other news, finally cured all the leaks on the engine , turns out 32mm plumbing connector rubber seals are an exact fit for chrysler slant six spark plug tubes. Now it's retaining oil its time to change the gloop that's in there!

 

Had a nice run out to Dordon earlier, steady 50/60 all the way listening to the big 6.  

  • Like 4
Posted

Fitting those electronic ignition kits is a good idea. I fitted a Pertronix kit to my Mercury and it's made a big difference. And as another positive it means never having to try to find condensers that don't just screw up within a few miles!

They're a piece of piss to fit too, at least mine was anyway.

 

I'm so impressed I'm going to convert my other old shitters to electronic and bin the crappy points set up.

Posted

Took the rear over riders off to match the missing front ones, looks a bit neater. Also a shot of the 70's interior.

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Posted

Have I just seen you in Nuneaton? I gave you a toot in my Lorry, although I did have the strange urge to crash into you head on and drive off a cliff.

  • Like 3
Posted

Aha! Yes! I thought it was my mate who drives for Maritime but no , TWAS A SHITER SPOTTAGE!

Posted

Don't forget these need regular valve adjustment on them which you have to do with the engine running. It's a bit scary at first trying to measure and adjust the rocker arms while they bounce up and down but you soon get the hang of it. Details here

 

You can do 4 or 5 of these cycles in a leisurely 45 minutes. Spend the extra time—it's worth it.

Sounds like it could take a couple of gallons of fuel to adjust the valves. :)

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