MG TF

[JohnK]

What's the gen on these guys?

 

I'm off to view one tomorrow as I've always liked the MGF, but I've been struggling to find one that I actually want to buy. A TF has popped up locally which looks okay - I haven't really looked at them before, not sure why.

 

I'm right in thinking the major difference aside from a bit of a facelift is the TF has coil springs as opposed to Hydragas on the F?

 

This one is the 135 which seems peppy enough from what I have read, I'm more than up to speed on assessing a K series so that's fine.

 

There does seem to be some evidence of them rotting a bit as well - subframes it seems and running this one through the MOT checker, it's had a bit of welding done for its MOT around 3 years ago.

 

What are they like to live with and how do they drive? Car reviews suggest the F was a smoother ride than the TF but I've driven neither so I wouldn't know. Is it likely to be a car I can have a bit of a B road blast in with the roof down, or am I going to be left uninspired with a soggy old Rover?

[twosmoke300]

Subframe mounts rot out too . Little round brackets At the front of each subframe . Not cheap either

[purplebargeken]

Check out the buyers guide on the MGF register forum. TF's are better on track but F's are a bit comfier ride-wise. TF's slightly jazzed up interior. 

 

F and TF are ace cars and everyone should at least have a go in one. What colour?

[Station]

I think only the Trophy TF has springs. 1.8 non-VVC is fast enough with that nice low end grunt, 135 would be brilliant.

The handling is top notch, especially if the hydragas hasn't been filled to spec. If it sits with about 3 inches between the wheels, let some out if you prefer it.

From experience, even with a slightly leaky roof, the car didn't rust, especially the interior. Little things like spots on the rear arches and the sills got a bit, but nothing massive. I reckon they didn't because they don't rust from the inside out, which MR2's and MX5's did. The subframes do get rusty, but the metal is 2 - 3mm thick.

Engine is easy to take out underneath if you lift the car up. I did -everything- on the missus' MGF (engine, gearbox, interior, hood, electrics, looms, pipes, exhaust), and found it easier than pretty much every other car I've had. Clutch is fine, you just split the box and move it a couple of inches to the left. I did it twice when I forget to tighten up the cover plate bolts.

The rear calipers handbrake mech seizes. They are easy to rebuild rather than buying a new one for £100 or whatever. Same as the rear calipers on Rover 800's/Honda Legend, etc.

 

Worst thing I did on them: Changing the handbrake cables after one snapped. There is a metal grommet bolted onto the bulkhead. The bolts are behind the subframe. The bolts will probably be rusted stuck. The space is about 2cm.

 

Also, don't use MGRover forum for advice. They are mostly clueless.

 

 

 

I say buy one while they are still cheap. My car had 140,000 miles before the engine overheated - which was due to the no antifreeze froze and cracked the block in winter 2010 (water pump was leaking).

[scaryoldcortina]

I've driven both and there is very little difference. Coil sprung cars break coils, and hydrolastic cars go down overnight and leave a puddle.

 

Correct about subframe rot though - TF subframes tend to look like they got finished by leaving them in the north sea for a couple of months where the earlier cars don't seem to suffer as badly.

[purplebargeken]

Just do it.

[Station]

Here's the subframe - it's held in with about 6 - 8 long bolts.

 

 

I stripped and painted it with 2PK:

 

 

But when I checked it before sale, I noticed it had gotten a little bit rusty again.

 

They're very similar to the Metro subframes apart from the aluminium mount. I reckon they had a load of Metro ones left over and used them through the 90's.

[Justin Case]

Actually had a good look and test drive in one this morning I've had a look at a few private ones, but they all had something that put me off so I called in at a local MG specialist before spring arrives and prices go up. According to him problem areas are head gasket (can be replaced with MLS one like Freelander's)  rear calipers,  coolant pipes can rot but stainless replacements are reasonably priced. Also look for cambelt replacement within living memory.  Cars are of course dearer this way but I've come round to thinking it might be better in the long run.

As for driving, I was grinning like a Cheshire cat. In theory it isn't all that fast, but you want to put your foot down it feels eager to accelerate, especially with the noise just behind your left ear (induction as well as exhaust?). Steering is precise and handling seemed like on rails (although this is only on the basis of two roundabouts The later ones  (2005 on and LE500) have slightly softer suspension and definitely ride better over uneven roads.

[purplebargeken]

Tons of them in breakers with stainless coolant pipes

[Jim Bell]

F's<TF's.

 

VVC or GTFO

[Station]

Stainless under floor pipes are only about £50 new. Also check the metal pipes for the heater in the central tunnel. They can rust and burst and fill the cabin with hot steam, as it did on mine.

Interior plastics are awkward to refit and will probably break the clips, especially centre heater panel and speaker panel.

New OEM parts are cheap on eBay.

If the car has had a previous overheating failure, find one that hasn't.

[JohnK]

Cool, cheers guys.

 

The AS bike 220 is going today, picking Scotty up at lunchtime so I've arranged to venture over and view this TF after that.

 

This is the car -

 

[purplebargeken]

Oh that IS nice! 

[JohnK]

Interior pic, just for you Ken

[Mr A Lawrence]

The main thing against TF's is project drive which means things were deleted/thinned out.

 

Example, one horn as opposed to two on the 'F , no plastic flaps on engine cover, solid subframe mounts as opposed to rubber ones and the rustproofing wasn't up to scratch.

 

Suspension wise, drive both and see for yourself.

 

TF's are a bit harsh and clattery

 

'F's are a nice ride but hydragas spheres aren't available new anymore (that's why the tf changed to coils) and are prone to leaking, that said, I'm on our 4th 'F and haven't had any suspension issues.

 

There's a grease gun type pump on eBay for around £40 to keep it topped up.

 

Stainless pipes are available for around £80 ish.

 

Roofs leak but not majorly, biggest problem is cracked plastic screens, fold down properly to eliminate the risk and don't fold down when frosty!! Putting it back up will lead to cracks.

 

Engine access isn't great but for day to day maintenance its adequate.

 

They do rust, rear of the sills rust from the inside due to blocked drain holes, front wings can go round the side repeater, front edge and where they meet the sill at the bottom.

 

Plenty available so don't worry about that

 

Also, it's better to buy one from an enthusiast, join the forums.

 

Www.the-t-bar.com www.mgroverforums.co.uk and www.mgregister.co.uk are the three biggest.

 

These are our cars

[Pillock]

I dare say 90% of original rear screens will be knackered by now, if you've got a MGR screen that's still see-through and in one piece it's probably a 10,000 mile car that's been garaged and never had the roof down.

£80 for a new one sewn in is what I paid and it transformed the car.

 

Can't recommend these enough. I like the fact you get all the hairdresser comments, means the prices are staying low - if you can have more fun for sub-£500 without it involving a professional team cleaning up a hotel room the morning after, I'd love to know.

 

And yeah, if you need spares you get a massive selection online. When I was looking for a front wing that had gone in exactly the places Andy describes, I could even do and ebay search including my paint code and see multiple pages of results.

 

Recommend a Lo-Larm - BTB had bought one but not fitted it to the HFHMGF, I spent half an hour slotting it in. It's just a floating magnet and a reed switch that fits below the expansion tank, if you do happen to lose all your coolant at speed this thing will buzz away loudly before you see the temperature gauge rise (which is way too late to save the head from going all bendy).

[JohnK]

JohnK in poser 2 seater convertible shocker.

 

Going back to get it this afternoon.

[purplebargeken]

Ace!!!!!!!!

[JohnK]

Off for a quick Sunday lunch and then I will be on the peasant wagon to posh old Yarm to pick this up. Looking forward to it actually, it's quite a nice drive. Reminds me of the SportKa I had for a bit last year.

 

I will probably get a bit of a ribbing tomorrow rocking into work with it and I will officially become one of THOSE KNOBBERS with the roof down despite the fact it's Baltic outside.

[purplebargeken]

Great stuff mate, really pleased for you. Now get a set of these straight away if not already fitted: 252089213584

[Mr A Lawrence]

Great stuff mate, really pleased for you. Now get a set of these straight away if not already fitted: 252089213584

TWENTY QUID?!?!

 

Try www.mgfmania.com

 

Lot less than that!!

[purplebargeken]

Other straps are available lol

[Station]

Oh yeah, those elasticated straps on the roof are all dead by now!

[purplebargeken]

The straps make it so easy to raise and lower the soft top. Best thing ever. 

 

I will now be living the TF dream through this purchase John. You know that, right?

[Mr A Lawrence]

I personally don't like them because when you throw the roof back when sat in the car you've no control over the rear screen folding funny.

 

At least when it "jams" you can sort out the rear screen then fold it down.

 

Ours has a glass screen in now so it's a bit academic as how it's folded.

[purplebargeken]

Screen was only an issue in really cold weather which can make them brittle. I guess I was lucky.

[JohnK]

 

Really enjoyed being a POSER YO with the top down when it is FUCKING BALTIC.

 

Heaters toasty though!

 

Bit of a blow from the exhaust to sort and that's about it.

[purplebargeken]

Fantastic mate, just fantastic!

[JohnK]

Is it likely to be a car I can have a bit of a B road blast in with the roof down, or am I going to be left uninspired with a soggy old Rover?

I can confirm, following my 30 mile, B road commute this morning that it is very much the former. Drives ace.

 

Exhaust needs to be sorted though, is buzzing away a bit and sending a bit of a stench into the cabin. It's 12 months old so I think it's more poor fitting than something needing replacing.

 

It's done less 800 miles in the last year!

[twosmoke300]

I can confirm, following my 30 mile, B road commute this morning that it is very much the former. Drives ace.

 

Exhaust needs to be sorted though, is buzzing away a bit and sending a bit of a stench into the cabin. It's 12 months old so I think it's more poor fitting than something needing replacing.

 

It's done less 800 miles in the last year!

ECP exhaust then - 12 months its done well