405 Starting issue help?

[Jim Bell]

Sorry to start a brand new thread for this, but I thought it would get the most eyes/knowledge on the problem.

 

 

I parked up the 405 and locked the door with the key (drivers door lock, central locking).

 

The central locking made noises like it was locking and unlocking loads of times, which freaked me out, so I unlocked it again.  Noise stopped.

 

I got in and tried to start it and it wouldnt turn over.  Loads of lights, and all the electrics worked but wouldnt turn over.  I had a meter with me (after previous Failure to Proceed and subsiquesnt new battery), so checked the battery, which seemed fine.  Tried to start in again but wouldnt turn over.

 

Tried locking the doors again (from the key, drivers door lock) and it made the same noises over and over again, so I unlocked it and went into McDonnalds and ordered a double cheeseburger and diet coke.

 

After lucky food had been consumed, I went back to the car (which was open) and tried locking it again.  It locked fine and only made a noise like the central locking operating once.

 

 

Hmmmmmm, I thought. And unlocked it.

 

Got in and it started fine.  Though the "water in fuel filter" light stayed on. Drove home fine, "water in fuel filter light went off after ten or so mins). Car started at the door 8 times when I got home fine.

Checked alternator output and that seems fine.

 

 

I never bother with the alarm because immobilisers are more trouble than help in my opinion, and I am at a loss as to what the fuck is going on here.

 

 

Can anyone shed any light on whats occuring here?

[pshome]

 

Can anyone shed any light on whats occuring here?

 

 

 

just standard Peugeot self healing as described on page 25 of the user manual. Happened to me many times.

Leave it alone, eat drink, sorted! Hint: works best with a baguette and a glas of wine instead of the burger.

[Bren]

Does it have an imobiliser?

[Jim Bell]

Does it have an imobiliser?

 

It does, but the manual says that it can only be activated by pressing the alarm button on the key. Which I never touch.

The manual also says the only way that the alarm/imobiliser can be deactivated it to press the button on the key again.

 

Out of interest, I pressed the alarm/imobiliser button when I got home.  Nothing happened (the doors are meant to lock and the indicators are meant to flash three times). I pressed it again, just in case.  Nothing again.  The red light on the key works, so I'm guessing the battery in there is good.

[Junkman]

I paid 30 quid to have that shit removed (took a car locksmith ten minutes). As a result, the central locking now works with the key as well as the blip, but there simply isn't an immobiliser anymore.

If you don't have the model with the keypad in the centre console storage bin, the immobiliser can only be activated with the key blip.

If the key blip stops working properly, you are basically stuffed, because Piggo doesn't service these anymore. And yes, the concept is, that you have to see your main dealer when the blip stops working, how clinically French is that?

So the sooner you get this sorted, the better it is for the longevity of the Piggo and your nerves.

[Jim Bell]

I fucking hate imobilisors. I have no keypad.  £30 to have the imobilisor stripped out completely JM?

 

I'd happily pay that to have it gone.  Especially if any auto sparky can manage it.

[Junkman]

That's what I paid. And he even came to my house to do it.

[Jim Bell]

Cheers for the advice fella. If I can find someone to do that, I'll be a happy fella.

[billyboy406v6]

Its knackered. Time to get rid ?

[PhillipM]

Sometimes if you have a sticking lock/solonoid (doors or boot) then that happens and the immobiliser won't disengage properly, so check they're all moving freely, failing that the connector to the immobiliser ecu sometimes gets corroded and causes the same issue, quick clean and some contact grease usually sorts it.

[HH-R]

Sounds like a poor earth if all the electrics were going haywire and there were spurious fault lights.

[Jim Bell]

Cheers man. The imobilsor shouldn't be going on though. Not unless you press the button. Which I don't. I wouldn't have a clue where the connector to the immobilisor ECU would be. If anyone can provide a brief description, I'll have a look and a clean up.

 

Toying with the idea of taking the battery out of the key (but keeping it handy). In theory, there should then be no way that the imobilsor can arm.

[Junkman]

A Peugeot is not reliant on external assistance to arm itself. But it can only be disarmed with the blip. How's this for living on the edge?

The receiver is above the rear view mirror. But the immobiliser itself is underneath the dashboard somewhere.

[Jim Bell]

It's the rise of the machines. They're becoming sentient.

[Jim Bell]

Also, better keep the battery in the key.

[The Moog]

I would suggest earth. Might be worth cleaning them up if you can.

[HH-R]

I reckon the immobiliser might be a red herring, I'm not familiar with PSA's setups but those old systems often just cut the fuelling rather than stopping the starter.

[Junkman]

Nah, in the 405 it cuts pretty much everything except the interior light.

[Bear]

Nah, in the 405 it cuts pretty much everything except the interior light.

 

So, presumably a potential miserable relay somewhere?

[carlo]

Mine has the coded keypad immobilisor so a bit different to yours, but I did do just as Junkman suggests by getting an electrician to completely disable the alarm.  Actually even if the key fails you can get hold of a key/interior remote receiver as a package and that would get the immobilisor working again.

 

Souns more like a central locking fault causing the issue here.

[PhillipM]

I reckon the immobiliser might be a red herring, I'm not familiar with PSA's setups but those old systems often just cut the fuelling rather than stopping the starter.

 

Had the same system on my early 306, cuts the the whole injection/ignition/starter relay out. Also did the exact same lock/unlock/lock/unlock thing.

[Jim Bell]

Sounds like a poor earth if all the electrics were going haywire and there were spurious fault lights.

 

No, nothing went haywire, I just meant that the correct dash lights came on with IGN and that there was plenty of power to run the blower/windows/radio etc.

[michael1703]

What age is the 405 in question?

[Jim Bell]

1993 man.

 

 

[PhillipM]

Same age as my 306, on the infrared remote with the 4 diodes in the top console?
 

[Jim Bell]

Same age as my 306, on the infrared remote with the 4 diodes in the top console?

 

 

Er.  No understand.

 

No remote, just key plipper thing.

 

 

The "Receiver thing" is on the headlining ahead of the sunroof but I have no idea regarding diodes.  Sorry for not being much help.

[michael1703]

Just had this bollocks on a 405 on an N plate, it's been stood for two years and he wanted me to mot it for him.

 

I've put off the misery until next week.

 

I'll steal your alarm fixing ideas as you discover them

[alf892]

Also worth checking the condition of the door loom........the bit from a post into door which sits inside a boot. It gets flexed every time you open and shut the door so the wires either break completely or the strands fail. I had a 306 that would sometimes lock and sometimes not........other times it would unlock itself. And you could hear it going batshit sometimes.

 

Never had the failing to start thing though........

[PhillipM]

Yeah, that's the IR system, if the solonoids/catches are all moving freely on the doors and boot, and the plug is clean of corrosion, then as above, check the door loom for any cracked wires or corroded pins.

It does go a bit batshit that system on occasion but generally it's an external issue, the reciever and immobiliser system themselves are pretty bombproof.

[Jim Bell]

Cheers everyone. That's all good infoknowledge.