Reliant Rialto

[Eddie Honda]

Use what you have to hand to secure the plate. The rivet counters won't be around.

[oldcars]

New clutch cable has arrived. Will try and make a start on it tomorrow.

[oldcars]

Sorry for the gumtree pic but need some help. Clutch cable is not an easy job. You will see a arm from the gearbox with a bit of the old cable and rusted up adjustment bolts. I bent this trying to free it up. How does it come off?

[plasticvandan]

you cant remove the arm without removing the gearbox.

you dont need to remove the arm.

the pivot pin that the cable goes through needs to be lubed and free moving,usually they are siezed (which can cause cable breakage) Im not sure what you are trying to say,if youve bent the arm,bend it back.To get the pin out use a large screwdriver that fits through the hole and a blowtorch to heat it up to free it off.

if the nuts etc are siezed just cut the cable,your changing it anyway.

[oldcars]

Sorry Dan its hard to explain. The arm is fine. In the pivot pin is a threaded bit with the adjustment nuts on it. They are all siezed up with a bit of the cable in. I need to get this all out of the arm to fit the new stuff but have no idea how to.

[plasticvandan]

cut the cable the other side and pull it out!

The pivot pin is NOT threaded.(or at least shouldnt be)

[Eddie Honda]

At least Sparesman had the decency to use a flash...

 

[oldcars]

Good photo. New phone, no idea how flash works on it yet 

[oldcars]

Well that was simple   Hammer, WD40 bleed. hammer WD40 bleed, repeat for a long time.

End result is that the new cable is on, but needs adjusted as it wont select the gears. Need to adjust it up but had had enough last night 

[Eddie Honda]

This is when you find out that the roll pins are now bollocksed.

[oldcars]

I did think that. Hopefully its just me not adjusting in correctly.

[oldcars]

Adjusted clutch and it seems to be working fine. Now sidelight to fix thats rusted solid and the front wheel bearing to adjust. Cap looks rusted solid too.

[oldcars]

We Rialto have been running fine. Still got the light to sort not had the time, but this morning when reversing the rear brakes seem to have bound on. Should be a fun run home. Never done any work on brakes before, what can cause the binding?

[RayMK]

Hand brake cables can partially seize, leaving the rear linings in contact with the drum.  Also, if parked unused for a week or two the brakes can bind when you try to drive again.  This is worse if parked up after a wet drive - rust and dust fuses to stick the linings to the drums.  It is best to park with the hand brake off and leave it in gear or use chocks.

 

Working on the brakes is easy enough.  They probably need a good clean with brake cleaner aerosol.  I can't remember how the drums  are attached on Rialtos.  If you are lucky, they won't be the pain in the arse type which come off with the wheel bearing after fiddling with split pins or staked nuts (the French seem to like the latter).   Most older cars, including my Stellar, have the hub and drum as seperate components, the drum retained by a couple of smallish screws into the hub.  If and when you get the drum off to take a peek, remember to release the handbrake first and resist the temptation to 'try' the brakes when the drum is off.  You could end up with brake fluid everywhere and more bleeding work than you wanted.

[oldcars]

Hand brake cables can partially seize, leaving the rear linings in contact with the drum.  Also, if parked unused for a week or two the brakes can bind when you try to drive again.  This is worse if parked up after a wet drive - rust and dust fuses to stick the linings to the drums.  It is best to park with the hand brake off and leave it in gear or use chocks.

 

Working on the brakes is easy enough.  They probably need a good clean with brake cleaner aerosol.  I can't remember how the drums  are attached on Rialtos.  If you are lucky, they won't be the pain in the arse type which come off with the wheel bearing after fiddling with split pins or staked nuts (the French seem to like the latter).   Most older cars, including my Stellar, have the hub and drum as seperate components, the drum retained by a couple of smallish screws into the hub.  If and when you get the drum off to take a peek, remember to release the handbrake first and resist the temptation to 'try' the brakes when the drum is off.  You could end up with brake fluid everywhere and more bleeding work than you wanted.

Ah, now you say hand brake. I had just used the hand brake in the carpark as its on a hill, could be that its sticking. I take it to look at this i need to take the drums apart?

I always leave it in gear and hand brake off as last winter they bound up big time 

[RayMK]

I would jack the car up each side in turn and apply thin oil to the cable where it enters the Bowden bit (i.e. the outer) or if it's an exposed cable running on guides and pulleys (again, my memory fails me) then clean and grease all the moving bits.  Obviously, don't drench the end near the brake drums in oil.  With the car still jacked up, exercise the handbrake on and off a few times to work the lubricant in, then try spinning the wheel.  If it doesn't ease the binding then take the wheel and drum off and clean the innards, checking for any wet looking bits whilst you are at it.  

[oldcars]

Thanks Ray, will have a look and try the above first before taking things to bits.

[Barry Cade]

Job from the other night. It fell over.

 

[Eddie Honda]

Did it fall? Or was it pushed?

[oldcars]

Job from the other night. It fell over.

 

IMG_20160816_204134345 1.jpg

Shame, looks a nice wee Robin under the trotters tat. I have only ever seen one other Reliant three wheeler in my area since i got mine 2 years ago. Was this one in Fife?

[Barry Cade]

Yes, still quite a few tootling about- guy in Cupar has quite a few I believe.

[plasticvandan]

Brake drums at worst will have one cross head screw holding them on,may have nothing.hammer the face to free them off.sounds like the handbrake mech has siezed,these need greasing often.I never used the handbrake for parking,just left it in first gear,if left for more than a few days they lock up.

[oldcars]

Cheers Dan, will get a look over the weekend.

[oldcars]

Greased and cleaned up the hand brake linkage and its helped a bit but one drum still seems to bind a bit.

Want to take the drum off to have a look inside, do i have to take off the bolt in the middle of the hub? Looks like the whole hub will come off if i do. Rear drums on the Kia has two screws and the front come off easily this looks different.

[Asimo]

A google search for images of Reliant axle found this.

 

So no: centre nut holds the hub to the half shaft.

Drum probably just needs a tap with hammer to free it (or a massive struggle with a puller.)

Probably neccessary to wind brake adjusters in first because of the usual rusty lip at the inside of the drum.

 

(No Reliant knowledge here, just generic brakedrum stuff)

[oldcars]

Thanks for the picture, makes it easier to understand how it works. Just need to see how i get the drum off.

[oldcars]

Just found this on youtube. Its for a bond bug but looks like Edd takes off the middle section, not sure if i need to or nor as he puts it on first when rebuilding then the other bit after.

 

[RayMK]

As others have mentioned, there is no need to touch the centre nut or remove the hub.  The drum has probably rusted on to the hub, so it will need a bit of persuasion to release.  A drop of PlusGas on the join will help (i.e. the slight step towards the centre nut), then gentle tapping with a mallet.  If the drum releases a bit then feels springy, the shoes are catching on the wear lip.  Back off the adjusters to allow the shoes to clear the drum.  The adjusters are little square section protrusions on the backplate.  If everything is re-usable after cleaning and inspection, remember to adjust the shoes after reassembly of the drum.  Usual procedure is to wind the adjuster until the wheel is too stiff to turn, back off the adjuster a bit until the wheel turns with only the tiniest amount of binding, and assuming the other drum is still on the hub, press the brake pedal a few times to centralise the shoes then readjust as before.  Same for the other side, of course.  If the shoes or brake cylinders need replacement, photograph everything before removal, particularly the placement of the springs.  The springs can be a bit of a fiddle to get back on.  I find that shouting and cursing helps that task.

[oldcars]

Thanks again Ray, fingers crossed i can get this looked at tonight.

[Eddie Honda]

All else fails, bigger hammer.