Reliant Rialto

[oldcars]

Cheers, enjoying it so far. I was wanting to get the head off as i thought it would be hard work. Now for the rebuild.

 

The head is away at a friend of a friends machine shop. He was saying head bolts being a different tightness is a classic sign that the engine has overheated. It has only once in my ownership, and that was on the run home from buying it 18 months back.

 

Need to get stuff cleaned up while its away, rocker painted and that engine mount changed.

[plasticvandan]

i would say its a classic sign that it wasnt retorqued properly.the fact you got it off so easy says to me that its been changed not that long ago.

 

change all 4 mounts,not just one,easy enough to do using a jack and some wood.the hardest problem you might have is if the rubber has sheared off the metal stud and the nuts are siezed,they can be an absolute arse to get out.

[oldcars]

i would say its a classic sign that it wasnt retorqued properly.the fact you got it off so easy says to me that its been changed not that long ago.

 

change all 4 mounts,not just one,easy enough to do using a jack and some wood.the hardest problem you might have is if the rubber has sheared off the metal stud and the nuts are siezed,they can be an absolute arse to get out.

Thanks, thats what i though too. The back ones are harder to get to and i get the feeling they were just left.

 

Engine mount looks like the bolt is still in the rubber and its broken at the bottom into whatever is screws into. You can see a rusty ring mark where it was sitting and its moved about 5mm to the right.

[Eddie Honda]

Remind me Dan, but do the two rear ones not sit in a cradle which is bolted to the chassis flange? (which also has an earth strap). Also do the front ones from (original) Robin era onwards always (well meant to) have metal hats? Or did they get cheap and delete them?

[plasticvandan]

yes the rear two are screwed into the gearbox,the lower studs sitting in slots in a cradle.

the fronts should have metal hats on,which are meant to stop oil getting on them.

from the 90s onwards reliant just fitted whatever they could find lying around so no two are the same.

dont get mounts from reliant pratsworld,they are too soft.

[oldcars]

No metal hats on my 83 Rialto just rubber. Normally get stuff from Brook Road garage i think, the guy there are been great.

[plasticvandan]

brg is good.ask for some hats if he has some

[plasticvandan]

or upgrade to landrover front mounts,last forever and much much stronger

[oldcars]

or upgrade to landrover front mounts,last forever and much much stronger

I had read about that on a Reliant webpage. 

[oldcars]

Was watching wheeler dealers last night. Edd was doing the head gasket on a TR6. He was using a torque wrench to tighten the head down. Got me thinking, how am i going to get a torque wrench on the driver side head bolts as there is no room? Had to undo them them with a spanner.

[plasticvandan]

you dont need to worry about the three smaller nuts,its the main bigger nuts on top of the head that are important,just make sure they are tight,they just clamp up around the tappets.

[oldcars]

Sorry i don't follow. Do the ones around the side have to be at the correct torque, or is it just the middle ones?

[plasticvandan]

there are three nuts along where the spark plugs are,these arent important.all the nuts on top of the head itself (think its 12) are the ones that need proper torquing

[oldcars]

Cheers Dan makes sense now as all the others can fit a socket set, spanner on the ones near the spark plugs. Just for interest why is it not so critical what torque is on these ones?

[plasticvandan]

its all in the manuals, the actual head gasketery is all done around the main nuts,the side part is just surrounding the pushrods,so long as done up tight at same time they are fine

[oldcars]

Cheers, might getting a loan of a manual if the chap can find it. Hope so think i need it 

[groovylee]

I have a copy of the Haynes manual somewhere, I could scan the relevant pages for you, but I wont be near a scanner till Monday.

[Richard]

I have a copy of the Haynes manual somewhere, I could scan the relevant pages for you, but I wont be near a scanner till Monday.

 

I don't bother with a scanner these days. I mostly use my DSLR on a tripod but even the phone camera does a passable job.

[oldcars]

I have a copy of the Haynes manual somewhere, I could scan the relevant pages for you, but I wont be near a scanner till Monday.

Cheers very good of you. I will let you know, might be getting a loan of one.

[oldcars]

Got a manual so cracking on tonight. Ordered engine mounts and a few bits that will be here next week so going to do a bit of cleaning and painting tonight.

 

Head should be back soon too.

[oldcars]

Head back, all machines and new stem seals fitted. Last night i cleaned up the block and did a bit of general cleaning of the block. Still waiting on some parts.

 

Those that have done these before once the head is torqued up how long do you wait to check it?

[plasticvandan]

as soon as its been run and cooled down again.

[oldcars]

as soon as its been run and cooled down again.

Thanks, so can i just rebuild it, start it up and let it get up to temp and then leave it overnight and check next day?

[plasticvandan]

Yes I would recommend doing that 2 or 3 times,you will get movement on the torque wrench each time.only pita us having to adjust the tappets each time.to save time,screw the adjuster in until the rocker stops rocking,then back off 1/8 a turn,that's 6 thou.

[twosmoke300]

That's a good tip that , allow for wear in the rockers etc too . That's the metro I use on Ktm four strokes cos it's a pain to get the feeler gauges on

[coalnotdole]

Thanks for the tips. I have been reading up, some folk run them with no coolant for 2 mins or so, it this what you do? Don't like the sound of it to be fare.

 

 

I strongly advise you not to do this, You wouldnt run your engine without putting oil in it would you? Running without coolant You risk warping the head, damaging the new gasket, damaging water pump barings etc.

 

Running the engine dry is bad advice trotted out by idiots who have at best limited mechanical sympathy and really should know better. I Hate to see this bad advice run out time and again.

 

You should do the following:

 

• Choose a good quality gasket, (not a reliant pratsworld one) - I can point you in the right direction if you get stuck.
• Have the Cylinder Head checked and skimmed if needed, a Light skim should only cost £30 and will be money well spent,
• Make sure the block is as clean as you can get it, I prefer to use a razorblade, followed by wiping down with meths or petrol.
• When fitting the new gasket smear a little grease around the fire ring on both sides of the gasket,
• Ensure all The plain washers and Spring washers are present and in good condition,
• Follow the factory torque sequence and torque down in stages. to 15 ft lb, 20 ft lb, and finally to 25ft lb.  Use a decent click type torque wrench, Norbar, britool or similar,
• Torque the 3 bolts on the spark plug side of the head to 15ft lb only. Do these last.
• Refill engine with coolant/ water / oil before restarting,
• Its ok to check the torque after running the engine a few times, but strictly speaking it should not be needed. When overchecking use the factroy sequence and don't exceed the maximum figure. You should not need to go higher than this.

 

 

 

[Edit - I missed the bit where you said you had it all back together. ] Hope it goes well for you when you restart.

[plasticvandan]

This advise originally came through established members of the Scimitar owners club.Since doing so myself ive never had one blow again,and have done so for the last 12 years. i retorque after around 4-5 hot and cold cycles,no driving. You can of course,do it however you want.

[oldcars]

I strongly advise you not to do this, You wouldnt run your engine without putting oil in it would you? Running without coolant You risk warping the head, damaging the new gasket, damaging water pump barings etc.

 

Running the engine dry is bad advice trotted out by idiots who have at best limited mechanical sympathy and really should know better. I Hate to see this bad advice run out time and again.

 

You should do the following:

 

• Choose a good quality gasket, (not a reliant pratsworld one) - I can point you in the right direction if you get stuck.
• Have the Cylinder Head checked and skimmed if needed, a Light skim should only cost £30 and will be money well spent,
• Make sure the block is as clean as you can get it, I prefer to use a razorblade, followed by wiping down with meths or petrol.
• When fitting the new gasket smear a little grease around the fire ring on both sides of the gasket,
• Ensure all The plain washers and Spring washers are present and in good condition,
• Follow the factory torque sequence and torque down in stages. to 15 ft lb, 20 ft lb, and finally to 25ft lb.  Use a decent click type torque wrench, Norbar, britool or similar,
• Torque the 3 bolts on the spark plug side of the head to 15ft lb only. Do these last.
• Refill engine with coolant/ water / oil before restarting,
• Its ok to check the torque after running the engine a few times, but strictly speaking it should not be needed. When overchecking use the factroy sequence and don't exceed the maximum figure. You should not need to go higher than this.

 

 

 

[Edit - I missed the bit where you said you had it all back together. ] Hope it goes well for you when you restart.

Hi, thanks for the info. Its not back together yet, i just have had the head back from the machine place. Lots was done to it. Did a bit more last night but noticed one of the studs in the manifold is thin in the middle after i had attached it to the head so took it off again and this is to be replaced. I will start the big rebuild next week.

[oldcars]

My pile of bits arrived. Engine mounts to be done tomorrow then the big rebuild. New thermostat to go in, heater cable as it had siezed solid, new plugs too. Comma oil ready too.

[oldcars]

Spent 3 non productive hours last night. Got bottom nut off the well rusted engine mount but cannot get the top one off. Looking in the manual confused me a bit. Is the top one a nut too? Any ideas on getting it off?