2001 Woever or Rover 75

[purplebargeken]

Right, I accessed the diagnostic bit. I turned on the engine, the temp guage sat at normal - 90 degrees.

 

After a few minutes it rose to 112 degrees and the fan came on. A few minutes later the needle jumped to midway between normal and the next marked point at 116 degrees.

A couple of minutes later it moved to the next proper mark at 118 degrees.  I then turned the car off. 

 

The fan stopped running when I turned the car off. 

 

There was no fan noise from the front of the car when I hit the demist button. 

[Split_Pin]

Isnt there some kind of coolant control module for this car that governs everything of that nature? I don't know Rovers but its a guess?

[Junkman]

Right, I accessed the diagnostic bit. I turned on the engine, the temp guage sat at normal - 90 degrees.

 

After a few minutes it rose to 112 degrees and the fan came on. A few minutes later the needle jumped to midway between normal and the next marked point at 116 degrees.

A couple of minutes later it moved to the next proper mark at 118 degrees. I then turned the car off.

At 118 degrees, it should have boiled like a kettle. If it didn't, the computer gets wrong readings from the temp sensor.

 

 

 

The fan stopped running when I turned the car off. 

 

There was no fan noise from the front of the car when I hit the demist button.

 

That's normal. Not sure why you'd expect anything else to happen.

[MarvinsMom]

on the rover 75 when you put the demist button on the atc air conditioning the rad fan is supposed to come straight on.

 

rover in their wisdom decided to use the one fan for both the air con and the cooling rad. 

 

as it is coming on when the engine is getting warm perhaps there is a fault on the fan. how old is the car? i ask as the early ones have a 3 speed fan, and later models have a 2 speed one. if the fan is a 3 speed one then there is a replacement rovotech one which requires some chopping about to fit but works fab once it is in. i've got one of those on mine. which is a 51 plate diesel estate, so that it had a 3 speed fan originally.

 

for a later 2 speed fan there is a replacement gold coloured resistor that is a direct replacement for the hopeless factory one.

[Junkman]

on the rover 75 when you put the demist button on the atc air conditioning the rad fan is supposed to come straight on.

 

Only if the air condition in fact comes on, i.e. the A/C compressor clutch engages and the compressor is driven.

This is often not happening due to not enough R134a being left in the system.

 

rover in their wisdom decided to use the one fan for both the air con and the cooling rad.

 

This is common practice and industry standard.

[purplebargeken]

It is an X reg car. 

[MarvinsMom]

so that would be a 3 speed fan, i wonder if the lower speeds are working properly?

 

does it sound shit (grindy or rattling) when its running?

[purplebargeken]

When it is running it sounds ok but I am guessing it should have come on sooner than when it actually does. 

[MarvinsMom]

with mine, which ok is a diesel so its different, on normal running i wasn't getting anything out of the fan. 

 

when forced to run though the t4, i didn't have any low speed  or intermediate speed, but did have high speed. it wasnt i think running that quick then and the fan sounded terrible. 

 

on the road i didn't see or hear anything a miss, though with the a/c running i would when stood or moving slowly get the occasional whale whoop as the a/c got too hot.

 

it was through reading various threads on the 75 forum that i found out any of this, and actually was able to make contact with someone mechanically competent enough to put the car right.

[red5]

 

Only if the air condition in fact comes on, i.e. the A/C compressor clutch engages and the compressor is driven.

This is often not happening due to not enough R134a being left in the system.

 

 

This is common practice and industry standard.

 

Not true in the case of the R75/ZT - the low speed fan will come on if demist is selected irrespective of a/con gas pressure or lack of. It's how you test low speed fan operation. it also throws interior blower on to full speed, but you can turn it down manually.

 

So, selected demist, look through grill and see if fan is turning.

 

You need to peer through radiator grill and see if you can spot a silver resistor attached to the fan motor bracket at about 2'o'clock. if no resistor it's a early 3 speed fan, if it does have a resistor its a later 2 speed fan - fixable with a new resistor normally (do NOT buy the cheap eBay ones).

 

Do this 1st (the Demist test)

 

118 degrees is ok(ish) for short periods on that motor - the failsafe is set to 112-119 for later fan type.

[purplebargeken]

Cheers. Will check again tomorrow. From what I have heard thus far it does seem to be a low speed fan issue. As said, just need to check which type it is. Bet it is the earlier 3 speed

[EssDeeWon]

^I can almost guarantee you it will be a 3 speed fan on a 2001/X plate (Probably built in 2000)

[purplebargeken]

No worries if it is. Research has shown that even if it is the earlier type, a straight swap is possible for the later 2 speed type with upgraded resistor. Phew! I'll probably have to modify the cowling to take it of without disturbing the air con pipework.

 

Ok, breathing easier as long as the engine is ok. There are no untoward noises, shakes, EML light on and no white smoke, so might be ok. 

 

The damn thing won't get started now until I get this fixed. 

[red5]

 

 

 

 

 

From the 75 and ZT owners club site - top blokes/info on there.

 

 

 

 

 

Mine as i changed fan (just before i crunched it...)

 

[purplebargeken]

Thanks for that. Seems fairly straightforward. I helped my mate take the front bumper off his MGZT, so it should all be ok, just the reinforcer and electrical connectors as extra by the look of it. 

 

There is a Revotech fan upgrade available, so I might go for that.

 

Just a thought though, would the fan running and cold air wafting still be insufficient to bring the gauge/temp under control? Or is that too simplistic? Like I said, I have never had an overheating car so I am somewhat ignorant in this matter

 

Thanks

 

Ken

[red5]

Depends what speed the fan actually works at - i've seen ones that mid speed worked but not high. Do the test on demist 1st, then take it from there. if the low speed isn't working do nowt till you fix that.

 

Bumper off is the worst part - inner wing liners etc. There is a guide i can link parts to if it helps.

 

Sam

[EssDeeWon]

I would suggest that big fan is pivotal to keeping that rad cool.

 

Many years ago I was running an old MK2 Golf 1.8 GL Auto (paid £150 for it) when I was still living in London, however the bearings were going in the electric fan and it sounded like marbles in a food mixer - Well me being bit stoopid and much younger then thought it would be fine to just disconnect this annoying racket of a fan. In no time it overheated on the Euston Road, so I quickly pulled in and connected the fan switch again, and it never overheated again, so these fans do play a big part in engine cooling 

[purplebargeken]

If it is a 3 speeder, then only the high speed is coming on. If a 2 speed, again the same. Made no noise when the demist button was pressed. I even stood by the front of the car. 

 

The replacement wil be the 2 speeder due to the lack of bushes to die. 

[purplebargeken]

Cheers for all that. I helped a mate with his ZTT front bumper so it should be ok, he's going to give me a hand as well.

 

I checked the demist test again this morning and absolutely no movement from the fan. The fan is a 3 speed jobbie, no resistor present present 100% confirmed

 

Just awaiting news on the bits now. 

[purplebargeken]

Replacement fan arrived, Mate assisted spannering time scheduled for Saturday. 

 

Photos will follow........ honest.

[purplebargeken]

Fan removal done. Pretty easy really. All came apart and went back together without any trauma or broken things.

 

Fan works superbly. Car still overheats. Twat.

 

Diagnosis: bolloxed thermostat. I also fucked up the bleed screw on the top hose 'cos I am ham fisted moron.

 

Gripe: have emailed, texted and rang a so called recommended mobile specialist to come over and sort out the thermostat, housing and pipes, temp sensor, top hose and coolant.

 

Answered the phone once for about 20 seconds and hasn't bothered responding in any way shape or form. I know the guy is busy, I get that but FFS a response of some kind would be handy.

 

Getting pissed off now and am close to binning the fucker. I just need someone to fix the poxy thing so I can use it. 

 

Think I'll just save up and buy a fucking Daf. Getting a bit fed up with cars now TBH. Perhaps I should have bought a Volvo, or anything really. Pah.  

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Thermostats on these are a lot easier/more accessible than other K's, they have a remote stat hung off the front x-member.

[purplebargeken]

Thought it was some plastic housing bollocks deeper in?

 

Have sent the bloke a text with some available dates. I'll give him a couple of days and then decide what to do with the car. Am getting sick of seeing it just sitting there and I don't feel confident in doing it myself. Fuck it.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Hmm, you might be right actually, I was thinking of the 4-cyl ones

[purplebargeken]

Some good news - Rover thermostat tinkering should hopefully commence this evening. I will update!

[LC Torana]

The thermostat housing is half-metal, half plastic, glued together. The Australian experience with the 75 has shown this as THE Achilles' heel of the car. A bloke called Guido in South Africa makes a nice cast metal thermostat housing. I have one on order, and will have it put into my 75 when the belts & pulleys get done, purely as a precaution in my case.

[Skizzer]

THE Achilles' heel of the car

 

Lovely things, 75s, but between this, the plenum drains, head gaskets, sundry water leaks and the cost/effort involved in doing the cambelt, Achilles must have metamorphosed into some kind of insect.

 

Good luck Ken!

[purplebargeken]

Yes, the metal one would be best but I just want to get it sorted and use the bloody thing. If it cures the temp woes then I will save up for the belts and so on. 

 

Cars eh?

[purplebargeken]

Well, last night a super bloke called Andy from the R75 forum popped over and performed the keyhole method of thermostat/housing and pipework removal upon the Woever. He finished around 11.30pm and I am pleased to report that all seems well at the moment. None of that over heating malarky thus far. I will give the car a run over the weekend just to make sure. 

 

The housing was indeed leaky as there was a ring of dried coolant around the circumference. 

 

I will report back once driven.

 

 so far

[Split_Pin]

Fingers crossed. I love the 75 but I think finances and patience limit me to my 1/18 version for now!