97 civic Blower Flaps Fixated

[The Moog]

Missus moog has got a 97 1.6i civic. Been well behaved up until now.

Both the heated rear window, air con and blower have stopped.

I checked and the switches aren't getting power. Checked fuses and the ones in engine bay and drivers fuse box are fine.

Removed the centre console to see if there was anything obvious can see anything. Hbol dont seem to point to any shared circuits (with my basic understanding)

Any ideas what I could test or do?

[PiperCub]

Go backwards from the switch in this case and see at what point the power appears - if at all or forwards from the 12V end (ie: the 'input') of the relevent fuse. If the input to the fuse itself has no power then work backwards again (eff. towards the battery).

 

I suspect you may find there's corrosion on the fuse terminals stopping the full 12V flowing - seen this a number of times with blade fuses (which I assume is what you've got in the Civic).

[The Moog]

Fuses were cleaned with fibreglass pencil when I took them out as a matter of course.

 

Will try and trace it back. It seems weird that both circuits have stopped suddenly.

[PiperCub]

That's a good move but also check the bladed terminials the fuse actually fits into, sometimes they get crappy with age and make sure the wire that supplies the fuses hasn't been pushed out the back of the fusebox. (Had that fun with multipole connectors too!), the supply route may be common to both circuits.

 

Not having owned a Civic (or Honda car), do they suffer from any fusebox issues as per, say, old VW's tend to? (I doubt it but just asking).

[The Moog]

After poking some more the output of the fuse box is 12v but at the switches it is 0 for hrw switch and 0.08v at blower motor switch.

 

So logical conclusion is that the electricity is escaping between fuse box and switches. Issue is that it is wrapped and hidden away.

 

I guess I could just run replacement wires from back of fuse box to switches, would be fiddly but perhaps doable.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

EDIT: After a bit more of thought a d bit more of a poke I think I will have to find a professional.

[PiperCub]

Yes, if that's the case then it sounds like a breakage in the loom - pretty rare, it's usually the connections where the fault lays. Before you/cut do anything, check continuity between the various points down the cable run (disconnect the battery first as you'll appreciate) to confirm the breakage.

 

If the loom is unpickable (for want of a better phrase), then cut the original out of circuit and splice in a new length in it's place of a suitable rating. Poss cable tie it to the loom for neatness.

[320touring]

Hahahaha your lamp says Ring;)

 

Sorry to hear of the wiring issues-a competant auto elec should be able to sort it simply

[Timewaster]

Common earth point somewhere under the dash or maybe on the bulkhead?

[The Moog]

According to HBOL they go to different earths as that was my first thought.

[Barry Cade]

The HRW and blower should have relay,after the fuses-the air con won't work if the blower isn't running. Check to see if you are getting power to the relays and stick 12v down the feeds to see if wiring between relays and switches are OK.

[doobietoo]

This might help.... flow charts and everything....  http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/Civic5D/pdf/62st300.pdf

[Timewaster]

Does the HBOL diagram not just show everything going to "earth" rather than a Specified earthing point?

[The Moog]

Will check relays. I took them out and checked they worked and cleaned them. Didn't check for 12v

 

Hbol specifies the earths and their location which is good.

 

Cheers for the link. Will have a look on the computer at it.

[The Moog]

Auto sparky came out. Did same as me and couldn't find an issue. No power was getting to the relays so he pulled the box apart but no joy.

 

Then he pulled the drawer out above the fuse box which had layout on it. It is totally different to HBOL.

 

Boom, one fuse feeding engine cooling fan, hrw and blower motor. HBOL was totally wrong giving each circuit a different fuse which in turn in their index said should be empty.

 

Still at least it wasn't something I had fucked up. At £50 most expensive fuse evah!

[PiperCub]

Oh FFS! Thank you Haynes for all the years of enjoyment you've given us......................

 

For future reference, do you have the handbook for the car (or can you get hold of one)? Reason I ask is that sometimes the correct info is in there, I've been wrongfooted by HBOL in the past where they haven't updated things like fusebox layouts but was found to be correct in the handbook bizarrely enough. Sorry for not thinking of this before.

 

Glad you've got it sorted now though.

[The Moog]

Not got the handbook, but will think twice in future about blindly trusting the hbol.

 

All back together with zero spare screws so happy times. Although radio took 90minutes to get in place because of the connectors not quite fitting through the holes.

[twosmoke300]

Hbol , an resemblance to any vehicle on the road is purely coincidental .

[The Moog]

Jumped in today to take it for new mid section exhaust and the blower is not working again... Fucksticks..

 

If it is a car you love then working on it isn't too bad, but when you cant stand it it is a nightmare.

 

Its likely to be leaving in next couple of weeks as well so cba chasing electrical faults. Will have a cursory look over it otherwise will just change the fuse when needed

[twosmoke300]

prob heater fan tight or resistor blown and the wire shorting on another terminal

[The Moog]

Cool will have a look at that.

 

Might also be ABS as that is playing silly buggers. When slowing down to stop it kicks in every time. Light was on but then has disappeared.

[The Moog]

Twosmoke how would I check for those?

 

EDIT: Changed fuse and with nothing else but blower on it popped so pretty sure it is that.

[twosmoke300]

Usually a sensor on its way out or split pick up ring on the cv joint . Sensors should be in the region of 1000 ohms so go round them all and spot the odd one out .

[The Moog]

I meant for the resistor. Is it a case of pull it out and it will be obvious?

[twosmoke300]

Turn the fan straight to its max speed and see if it still pops . The power goes straight to the fan on max and not via the resistor

[The Moog]

Cheers chief, will try that tomorrow.

[The Moog]

Spent some time this morning playing cars.

 

First decided to check the resistor. Each photo shows the blower at each of the speeds. Checked ohms and they should be between 2 & 3 (2. so that's all good. Cleaned the connectors and put back together.

 

Changed fuse and car seemed happy. Left it running for a while and the fuse didn't blow. Success!

 

Took the time to have a look at abs issue. The light hadn't come on but when slowing to a stop it would kick in. Removing the sensor I think I know why.

 

Cleaned with small screwdriver and that seems to have cured that issue.

 

Took the car for a test drive and the blower fuse popped. Bugger.

 

I have removed the blower and it is a little stiff but not that bad. Is there anything I can do to check it or shall I just get another one?

[The Moog]

Bumhats

 

Took car out to warm the oil in it, with blower disconnected but hrw on it blew fuse.

 

Thought I had found the culprit so replaced the fuse again, but took off the hrw switch. Blower worked fine then blew the fuse.

 

Arghghhhh

 

It means that something after the fuse box but before the circuit splits is tripping the fuse.

[The Moog]

Small update

 

Tried pulling the heated rear relay out of the engine compartment and it made no difference.

 

What I have found is if you leave the car idling the fuse is fine, as soon as you start driving and go above about 15 mph it pops. Any ideas?

[TRW]

What's the alternator voltage, both at idle and when revved up?

[The Moog]

Idle is 14.6 same when revved. With load on such as lights drops to 14.1v