ZX 1.9td - Farewell faithfull steed!

[D Spares & Tyres]

Easy job! No idea about hbols

[forddeliveryboy]

Only just seen this thread, I seem to remember after reading my suggestions that up to 10% petrol in serious sub-zero weather keeps the fuel thin you'd tipped in about 25% petrol. This was a few weeks ago, so I doubt you'd still be on this mix - but some of the symptoms you've described match with excess petrol and vapourising fuel. 

 

If the filter wasn't plugged with solid fat and muck, then those bits on top of it will be high melting point esters (HMPE) which melt into liquid the moment you rub them between thumb and forefinger. They usually drop out when excess petrol is added to poor oil, which is why if anyone's planning on adding 10% petrol for any length of time, add it outside the tank and allow containers to stand for 24hours to allow drop out.

 

HMPEs are weird, they seem to form on cool metal bits in the fuel system. Heat soon sorts them, so no worries inside the IP. I associate them with crap oil which has had cheap nasty meat cooked in it, cheap meat fat seems to be lethal stuff, whether it's a vehicle or human which ingests it!

 

 

 

Despite the cost savings I just couldn't bring myself to run veg in a car I needed to be reliable .

 

Use rapeseed oil, make sure it's dry and clean and you'll have no bother at all if you mix with 15% diesel year round, unless the engine/injectors are badly worn or the thing is unsuitable for veg (although this mix would work in a surprising number of cars which weren't officially suitable, esp in warmer months).

 

Despite all the info out there, I'm amazed how people still seem to think they know better. I 'borrowed' a few litres of rso from a mate recently and found it was damp - not cloudy damp, but not crystal clear. Ambient was 12C, so you couldn't blame it on the weather. Will have to have a little word, injector pumps really don't do water whether in suspension or free.

[beko1987]

Yep, it was your words in the original post that made me think that it was the issue! Hopefully it's not 25% still, and will go down quickly. Lesson learnt, don't fuck about with pez and veg! Plus I had put the petrol in assuming the weather was going to drop and get bastard cold, which didn't happen, it warmed up!

 

I'll run it down until it's neat derv and run a tank through just to clear all the lines, and use teh veg neat in warmer months.

[Arthur Foxhake]

I'm not sure you are understanding what is being said.

10% petrol is fine, even recommended, in cold temperature, to keep the viscosity right.

I don't think petrolz have caused the issue.

I have a feeling that a fair content of animal fat is causing the issue.

Petrol will help with this problem and a further 10% diesel will see it off completely.

I would always carry spare filters in case, mind you.

[beko1987]

Aaaah. So I could be running the right ratio at the moment then? It certainly runs better with a fresh fuel filter. I think I'm just shit at maths to work out that 10l of pez to 40l of veg wasn't 10%. What can I do with all the veg that's left? run it 50/50 with derv rather than 100% or less?

 

 

Just got the random voltage issues to look at. Whilst changing down/coasting the volts drop, then go back up when I put the gas back on. Turning the steering when stationary makes it jump about too but it always did that to a lesser degree.

[Arthur Foxhake]

It's fucked mate.

Weigh it in.

Or drop it off to mine for scrap money.

(other reasonable solutions are available)

[Dave_Q]

Its got to be a good idea to mix outside the tank, chucking 10L of this and 10L of that in on top of an unknown amount already in isn't an exact science.

 

Try getting some pez in a can and put 10% pez in some veg in a clear container, leave it outside for a while to check for lumps, and check the gloopiness on a cold morning, should be closer to water than maccys milkshake.

[beko1987]

Well, she seems to be running OK again.

 

So now, my thoughts turn to the future. I have been getting a little bit disheartened by the old girl, she isn't running right, and is making many random noises. However, Lord Sterling was almost thrilled to have a ride in her, and this spurred me on to think I should have a look at spending a bit of money after spending about £50 all last year on it (excluding the MOT and other normal stuff that can't be avoided.)

 

So.

 

Exhaust - I'm going to splash out £50 on a new one. I reckon 70% of all the random noises it makes are the exhaust vibrating and rattling on stuff, and it's a bit pointless to chase issues that may not be there when it could just be the exhaust. So a new centre section (the correct one this time!) and a new seal and fitting bolts will be procured next payday (hopefully)

 

Then there is the random new drone that happens at speed. There is a chance it could be the exhaust, and I'm going to wait and see if it lives until a new exhaust to see if it goes. If not, would I be right to have a look at the wheel bearings? The fronts seem nice and cheap, and even brand new hubs are only £30 each, and that would fix the wheel bolt issues it has almost instantly. However, are the bearings something I can do on my own, or is a press/puller needed to remove them?

 

Brakes. Again, the droning noise could be related to the brakes, it's been a fair while since I last looked at them in anger, so new discs and pads all round may be prudent (I've done over 20k on the front pads that were on the car when I got it, and they have not worn at all, which is a bit suspect). The front discs are starting to look a bit peaky too, and their so cheap I don't mind throwing a pair on just in case. The rears are well fucking worn, they need changing regardless tbh. There is a slight wobble under medium/hard braking too.

 

Need to properly fix the front arch liner too, incase that's making some noises. And by fix I mean cabletie the bastard until its solid, not just push random bits of wood I find in the gutter into the hole where the clips used to go...

 

Also need to investigate the oil leak, I'll look at the rocker cover first and change the gasket. New dipstick would be wise as well

 

I'll also get the tank strainer out just to rule it out of any issues, can use my funky clip remover/replacer too then! Rear seats need to come out though, and that's a bastard job as their heavy!

 

Hopefully, the above will cure alot of ills. But then I will have a car that still rattles and squeaks, and leaks, with a dented wing. It's still leaking, I lifted the front carpets yesterday and the passenger footwell is still underwater, so it's looking like it isnt the sunroof, unless the water was sat elsewhere and is draining out. For now, I've decided not to care too much about that.

 

Should I look to spend £100/£130 on her? Or bin it off and get another car/enter some roffles? I could spend all this, get her running nicely again then the rear axle could shit itself, or the engine could let go. Or she could carry on for another 50k

 

On the plus side, yesterday morning whilst waiting for chuggington to bring Mo south I:

 

Replaced the broken live terminal. The voltage seems much better now, doesn't fluctuate and charges higher too

 

The power steering seems better, possibly partly because the voltage is more even, partly because I sucked all the old fluid out of the reservoir, and refilled it with the fluid/conditioner I bought, used nearly a litre in it. Then went for a long drive to work it through the system. I'll buy another bottle next month and do the same again.

 

Sorry for rambling, but writing it down helps me think it through in my head! Hopefully all the parts DodgyTom is finding will restore a bit of mojo too!

[320touring]

Pretty much where I am at with the 306 tbh.

 

spend a bit and end up with it spot on, or a new car?!?!

 

the 306 needs the front end sorting and rear dampers

[beko1987]

My front and rear shocks are ancient! The strut tops in the front are looking a bit manky too, the rubber coating is peeling off revealing a rusty plate underneath. Not going to think about that yet, I don't want to scare myself!

 

The rear shocks are cruddy, and I do actually have new shocks but need to chop the ends of the inner bolt tube out as they protrude out either side, as they are not the correct shocks, although are the same length as the old ones. They have been in the boot for over a year now!

[beko1987]

Plus, I suppose I could look on it that should I spunk a load of new parts on it and it dies, I buy an unloved ZX 1.9td, broken in ways mine isnt and have a mass parts swapping sesh and bin off the rest...

 

Does anyone know of the parts that are not interchangable between a volcane and normal ZX? Thinks like shocks and springs etc. I include Volcane in my parts searches, but its always a doubt in my mind that they may not fit...

[320touring]

Pug needs:

front wishbones

front dampers

rear dampers

bosch pump conversion

Handbrake

 

plus a bastarding leak!

 

Near 4ton in parts, plus hiring a lifeguard for the swimming pool

[beko1987]

 

Mine comes in at £200, although not all at once, and some parts I'll try to get cheaper, IE there's NOS brake pads for £10 on ebay etc, but I'll look at that when I come to buy it, plus alot of those parts are from ECP and they sometimes have a sale on I hear.

[320touring]

If I did all thr work to the pug I'd be shelling out on new tyres so I can benefit from actuals suspenshuns!hence mine is up near 4 ton.

 

I could do an actual part pricing similar to yourseldf and see if I can get the cost down

[beko1987]

It helped me get it clear in my head, but I didn't want to link to the £10 set of lucas brake pads etc incase they weren't there when I come to buy them, as is always the way with ebay.

 

Would scrapyard parts help with yours? But then your putting unknown quantity parts on I suppose. Are OMGLOWERING stuff cheaper? Only problem there is it'll be OMGLOWERED and ride worse than it does now!

 

I'm wondering if my droning noise is the front arch liner pushing itself towards the wheel at speed. There's lots of wear marks, and a hole where it really rubbed one night, so it's tricky to see. Will try and get out there with the drill and some cable ties at the weekend and make it solid, as it does move about very much! Getting a new arch liner is probably going to be quite tricky though, would be a prick to post!

[Lacquer Peel]

You can't do the front wheel bearings without a press but you can take the hub to a garage and they might replace the bearing for a tenner.

[beko1987]

You can't do the front wheel bearings without a press but you can take the hub to a garage and they might replace the bearing for a tenner.

I've just been reading that on various FCF threads. Will leave that job until last, if it's still got the drone after replacing everything else, then I'll have a look.

 

i then thought that second hand hubs/whatever the bearings sit in may be the way forward, then I can clean them up, get the bearings fitted at leisure/ask the local good garage by work to fit the bearings, then just swap everything around.

 

However, reading the FCF threads, people say that turning the wheels whilst at speed should change the sound as weight is passed on and off the bad bearings, and I've not noticed that. May try a bit of lane swapping this week on the m40 and see.

[320touring]

It helped me get it clear in my head, but I didn't want to link to the £10 set of lucas brake pads etc incase they weren't there when I come to buy them, as is always the way with ebay.

 

Would scrapyard parts help with yours? But then your putting unknown quantity parts on I suppose. Are OMGLOWERING stuff cheaper? Only problem there is it'll be OMGLOWERED and ride worse than it does now!

 

I'm wondering if my droning noise is the front arch liner pushing itself towards the wheel at speed. There's lots of wear marks, and a hole where it really rubbed one night, so it's tricky to see. Will try and get out there with the drill and some cable ties at the weekend and make it solid, as it does move about very much! Getting a new arch liner is probably going to be quite tricky though, would be a prick to post!

I'll only fit new stuff for suspension really-s/h can be an unknown quantity.

 

Part of my issue is wanting to fit good stuff-the dampers are about 160 for Bilstein b4s

[beko1987]

Ah well what do you expect! Although I looked on ECP at front shocks and they had L and R as 2 seperate makes at 2 different prices...

 

Although to make a GLF veg machine the bilsteins seem good... Can't you buy one every month, then come summer, when it's nice to be outside fit the lot?

[beko1987]

LP, by Hub, do you mean this part?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WHEEL-HUB-FOR-BEARING-FRONT-AXLE-CITROEN-BERLINGO-96-C4-COUPE-04-BX-ZX-/371452717637?hash=item567c4eaa45:g:7WcAAOSw4HVWC5Cn

 

So I would need to get any new bearings pressed onto this part before fitting...

 

Say I got that done, would I need all that pressed into this part

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-ZX-306-FRONT-LEFT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-GENUINE-NEW-PSA-OE-364662-/262266511360?hash=item3d104d6000:g:JocAAOSwNphWW11Z

 

or does it just push in? I could do with new hubs to sort the threaded wheel bolt issue, but if I wont be able to fit them myself then its a bit of a non starter really! I just don't quite understand how it all works inside there!

[Lacquer Peel]

I would just get the hub and carrier (bottom link) from a scrap car, maybe the whole strut + hub assembly off a lower mileage car.

I take it your ZX has ABS, being a posh model? That might complicate things, I know on 405s the hub carrier on non-ABS cars doesn't have the slot for carrying the speed sensor.

 

It's all nuts and bolts and quite easy, apart from pressing the bearing in.

[beko1987]

Ooooh, possible mojo boost - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-ZX-1-9-DIESEL-BREAKING-FOR-SPARES/272120728475?_trksid=p5411.c100170.m2943&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123831%26meid%3De5fe68ef693a496e8aeb78903bb7d053%26pid%3D100170%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D272120728475

 

Message sent re arch liner, rear light cover and rear wiper motor, as their the bits that REALLY bug me, if their cheap I might enquire about the wing and look at getting it sprayed, and the wing mirrors

[oldcars]

Get the wing and paint it yourself, then you can go all detailing world on it 

[beko1987]

Even if I left it white I'd probably still polish it up!

 

I'm wondering if it would be better to get it and fit it anyway, so the arch liner sits properly, as it's all bashed in where it should sit, so a new liner would be a bastard to fit regardless.

 

I'll see what price he comes back with for the bits I've asked for, he said they are cheap on the listing, but how cheap... Happy to grab the bosch pump bits if anyone wants to message him for a price, then either SF relay or post them for whatever it costs to post (unless his postage costs are cheap anyway) (neil, do you have a bosch pump yet?)

[scdan4]

does it not depend more on if you a) fancy a change or want to see just how far you can make the car go.

 

I've never had a "droney" wheel bearing so I don't believe they exist; droning at noise has always been exhaust or diff for me, and your exhaust is fucked, and you ain't got a diff. 

 

Brakes you say work and have meat on the pads, so happy days. If it ain't broke and all that.

 

Liner - that'll be a lot of rattles. Zip tie and silicon to buggery.

 

Cheap way is to minimally fix what you got. Spending time not money on killing rattles and chase the leak down and worry about the roundy roundy bits later.

 

But if you fancy a change then that's all a waste of time, and you should just change rather than making yourself go "oooof, i'm bored of this one" every time you sit in the driving seat.

[beko1987]

Cheers for the info RE bearings, I'll get the exhaust fixed and arch liner sorted first them before chasing that around!

 

The rear brakes need changing, the pads are nearly down to the metal, and I'll do the fronts to remove the vibration under braking, for the cost it would be rude not to

 

I offered matey with the white ZX £15 for the rear wiper motor, arch liner and rear light lens, plus another £10 for the front wing, not heard back yet though.

 

I don't really fancy a change, well, no more than usual... I would like it to see 300k, but won't spend shit loads of money to get there!

 

I'll start with the exhaust and arch liners first, then re-evaluate! I would have asked about the exhaust on the white one, but I think it might actually be a D (lucas too...), so will have the wrong exhaust anyway!

 

Fuck knows where its leaking from now, I've never seen water enter via the door seals. I'll keep an eye on it, CBA chasing it too much, it'll make itself apparent one day, and it's not in the drivers side so sod it!

[Noel Tidybeard]

why does the back seat need to come out? shirley just tipping the base forward will expose the hatch

[beko1987]

It's got the sliding rear bench, and being a volcane, the seat squab doesnt lift up, it all needs to be unbolted and removed. Serves me right for buying a posh car I suppose... The Old ZX (Aura) would have been a simple seat tipped up job!

 

Matey said £30 for the wing, rear light, arch liner and wiper motor. Happy with that! Wonder if Halfords do anything similar to my green in a spray can? Never sprayed before, Trigger, you coming to SF?

[oldcars]

Thats a good price.

Here is paint made up to your paint code.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/spray-paint-Lacquer-mix-colour-code-mixed-custom-car-AEROSOL-/300573273139?hash=item45fb902c33:g:~JcAAOSwcdBWRGD-

[beko1987]

wow thats a good price for the paint! will that be enough for the wing?