K series budget control loss

[Jikovron]

I though i might share my findings which no one ever might need to know, or already does 

 

Currently at my humble bungalow i'm rebuilding an 1800 i picked up cheap off ebay, as it was so cheap i took it straight to bits with a view to replacing the shells,liners and rings gaskets and fitting the fabled sooper doop oil rail 

 

 

so anyhow on ebay there is sets of shell bearings ungraded for little money however as i have come to understand the rods,caps,,block and ladder and even the crank journals are all machined to randomly different tolerances and as such there exists various online bearing calculators and matrixs to give an indication of which colour grades need to be specced for each position 

 

main bearing calculator

http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/the-engines/rover-k-series/main-bearing-calculator

the above clever bit of programming (by my knowledge) needs the below

 

5 digit crank code is this :11112 (flwheel end journal larger)

 

Ladder line bore code is this one of which is faded badly but is 5 Bs stacked upwards in this case 

 

The big end bearings are the same carry on in that each rod has a big end bore tolerance grouping to be matched to the journal grouping 

group size, weight letter and cylinder number is stamped on the rodcap to rod join in this case 6 E 2 

 

And the corresponding crank journal code is here

 

from the above codes i noted someone created a cross reference matrix to find the best fit bearings

 

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=180734

 

Seemingly the part numbers are all the same but have the colour code added onto the end IE LFB0000150BLU  or LFB0000150YEL

 

so after all the above hassle i determined to renew what ive got: i need for the big ends 4blue shells, 1 red and 3 yellow ones on the common LFB0000150 number and the mains need 6 blue,1green on the plain surface WAM4026 number and 3 grooved WAM4027 shells in green

 

so anyhow evidently that complicates any regrinding carry on massively and makes me wonder if using ungraded shell sets that apparently fit all 1800s would either spin or compress too much and bind the crank 

 

buying the graded OE gear add up £130 and the universal set is circa £40 but its hard to confirm that the fix all set would last mileage 

 

also whilst on this i spied that the A grade gkn liners are noticably worn so my initial idea was to replace those and the rings on the stock piston however yet again A and B grade liners are obsolete and a new single size has replaced them thus i believe the smaller a pistons might suffer slap in the intermediate bore 

 

further to this the sets of liners come with pistons and gudgeon pins but its nearly impossible to press the pins out the rods because there is no land to press against 

 

what is the options the collective would try? , it was a runner before so i could have a go at reusing the originals , or try the porridge grade set, or get another 1800bottom end to use with the head 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Asimo]

I can't help with your question but there is a really good article on the excellant K series here:-

 

http://www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/facts-and-figures/essays/essay-k-series-–-what-makes-it-tick/

 

which you could read whilst sat on that toilet.

 

Always good to see someone rebuilding an engine!

[Jim Bell]

You have more engines in your bathroom than you have pooptoilet seats.

 

Verdict= u r real man.

[spike60]

You have more engines in your bathroom than you have pooptoilet seats.

 

Verdict= u r real man.

A real man who lives alone, likely.

[Bren]

I though i might share my findings which no one ever might need to know, or already does 

 

Currently at my humble bungalow i'm rebuilding an 1800 i picked up cheap off ebay, as it was so cheap i took it straight to bits with a view to replacing the shells,liners and rings gaskets and fitting the fabled sooper doop oil rail 

 

 

so anyhow on ebay there is sets of shell bearings ungraded for little money however as i have come to understand the rods,caps,,block and ladder and even the crank journals are all machined to randomly different tolerances and as such there exists various online bearing calculators and matrixs to give an indication of which colour grades need to be specced for each position 

 

main bearing calculator

http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/the-engines/rover-k-series/main-bearing-calculator

the above clever bit of programming (by my knowledge) needs the below

 

5 digit crank code is this :11112 (flwheel end journal larger)

 

Ladder line bore code is this one of which is faded badly but is 5 Bs stacked upwards in this case 

 

The big end bearings are the same carry on in that each rod has a big end bore tolerance grouping to be matched to the journal grouping 

group size, weight letter and cylinder number is stamped on the rodcap to rod join in this case 6 E 2 

 

And the corresponding crank journal code is here

 

from the above codes i noted someone created a cross reference matrix to find the best fit bearings

 

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=180734

 

Seemingly the part numbers are all the same but have the colour code added onto the end IE LFB0000150BLU  or LFB0000150YEL

 

so after all the above hassle i determined to renew what ive got: i need for the big ends 4blue shells, 1 red and 3 yellow ones on the common LFB0000150 number and the mains need 6 blue,1green on the plain surface WAM4026 number and 3 grooved WAM4027 shells in green

 

so anyhow evidently that complicates any regrinding carry on massively and makes me wonder if using ungraded shell sets that apparently fit all 1800s would either spin or compress too much and bind the crank 

 

buying the graded OE gear add up £130 and the universal set is circa £40 but its hard to confirm that the fix all set would last mileage 

 

also whilst on this i spied that the A grade gkn liners are noticably worn so my initial idea was to replace those and the rings on the stock piston however yet again A and B grade liners are obsolete and a new single size has replaced them thus i believe the smaller a pistons might suffer slap in the intermediate bore 

 

further to this the sets of liners come with pistons and gudgeon pins but its nearly impossible to press the pins out the rods because there is no land to press against 

 

what is the options the collective would try? , it was a runner before so i could have a go at reusing the originals , or try the porridge grade set, or get another 1800bottom end to use with the head

 

 

A head gasket fabricated from shithouse paper would probably be more durable than the original.