Jump to content

Advice needed - Transporting shite.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Right chaps, bit of advice if you would be so kind...Am in the process of acquiring something rather interesting (of which more later), trouble is the car is in SE London, has no MOT, unfunctioning rear brakes and been off the road since 2005, does run / drive though.I need to get it to Lancashire.My plan was to borrow a 4x4 with towbar, hire a trailer and go get it. However all the 4x4s we have at work are busy so I'm struggling to get one anytime soon. So, what i'm wondering is does anyone know how much it might cost me to get it picked up in London and brought up here, approx 250 miles North.Thanks for your helpz.

Posted

Usually you are looking at about £1 per mile (one way) so I would guess about £250. I have been quoted about £320 from Carlisle to London (depends where in London) this week by a contact of mine. Hope this helps.

Posted

Bear in mind the London low emissions zone and its RIDCULOUS fines if you bring your own shite to collect it, google is your friend :wink:

Posted

Right then.... can borrow a Toyota Hilux for the weekend and the seller has very kindly offered the use of his A frame to drag it back here.I've never used an A frame before so should I be worried. Any useful advice from our seasoned framers before I plunge into a 250 mile tow?

Posted

Its fairly straightforward -you'll soon know if its wrong. Try to get the tow car square on when connecting up. Wrap the chains around the wishbone and bring back outside of the hook -'manuals' tend to suggest inside but I find that problematical)Once connected, hitched, tightened pull it forward a few feet -tighten again, and 'cos its your first go -again 100 yards up the road.Remember to leave key in ignition so lock doesnt kick in!. ANY sideways movement of the car on tow will be immed noticeable -and means its still loose or you've got it wrong someplace.If its so old the 'towee' has a beam axle the steering may castor the opposite direction! Then you will need to strap the steering wheel straight ,and corner very slowly (r/bts -2 mph).Braking downhill bends or adverse camber are the points to 'beware' -as the force on the hitch can tend towards jacknife. Overall -its not difficult - but the first time can be a bit scary. Good luck -PM me if you want further detail

Posted

Should add- lighting board needs a long cable -or an extension!I carry a tyre pump & spare wheels -if poss- for the collected car. Its not important on a trailered car- but if the wheels have been flat for a while -they might 'let go'. Only happened to me 3 times- tiresome but uneventful.If its been sitting a VERY long time -a brake caliper might seize on. Carry a large water container. When its really hot/smoking drown it with cold water. Rust removal from the disc and cold water contraction shocks 90% free. However if that still fails -wheel off, caliper off and cable tie out of the way. Sort once home.Bit of weight in the back of the Hiace will help too -if its a heavy acquisition!

Posted

Sounds to me as if you would be much safer and less stressed with a trailer! I don't think I would be up for a 250 mile trip with those concerns and possibilities of problems. I guess I'm just not a risk taker!

Posted

On the plus side -a trailer reduces the issues of a problem with the towed cars tyres, brakes etc. On the minus side -250 miles attached to an a frame loosens them back up nicely -making it much easier to move -if dead -once home.On the minus side a trailer costs money, adds dead weight to the tow vehicle, raises the height of the load -with consequential rocking/wing issues, moves the wheels in from each corner to the centre so snaking can become an issue at much lower speeds.Its much wider -causing 'issues' on back roads -(central London) and is more obvious -raising the spectre of 'ol'Bill' involvement)With a dolly, it can be horrible to load, still snakes and always looks like it'll launch through the rear hatch.On balance- I prefer A frame every time -and I do a LOT of towing.By the way-I own all 3 -plus 2 harvey frosts- one on a Gypsy -one on its own wheels

Posted

Only time I've collected a dead vehicle and couldn't rely on a friend with a truck or trailer I hired a Transit recovery truck. Lovely and simple. But perhaps I was lucky in having a place nearby that rents them out?Worth looking into though. It's what I'd do again.

Posted

ANY sideways movement of the car on tow will be immed noticeable -and means its still loose or you've got it wrong someplace.

I've only ever A-framed a car once, and this happened to me 30 seconds down the road. Hadn't got the hooks the right way round and on overtaking a parked vehicle the towed car (taxless, MOT-less, uninsured)swung well to my offside nearly bouncing off an oncoming 4x4!Pulled up - checked the instructions - corrected the error - then it went like a dream for the rest of my 50 mile journey (mostly on the M1).Still never did get a watertight answer on the legality of it all though...
Posted

I have a friend whose A-Framing game is strong. He uses an arrangement with a lever that applies effort to the towed car's brake pedal at the same time as the brake pedal is pressed in the towing car. Which means the towed car effectively becomes a braked trailer and there's no need for a trailer board (assuming its brake lights function!). Don't ask me how it works - I think it's some kind of hydraulic/pneumatic contraption.It becomes more interesting when towing hydropneumatic Citroens, where of course the suspension, brakes (and power steering where fitted) need the engine running to maintain pressure. He kindly towed my BX eBay purchase all the way from Swanage to Farnborough, Hants this way, with the heater on full and the windows open, and it didn't miss a beat.The difficulty came when he proposed towing my other dead BX (standing for 2 years) from Woking to his place in Dorset for breaking. It ran, just about, but had a goosed head gasket which would empty the coolant through the exhaust via the engine oil in minutes. The solution: tow it in 5th gear with the ignition on, so the front wheels would drive the engine - and therefore the hydraulic pump - and keep everything tickety-boo. I also had the "bright" suggestion that it would be easier if the spark plugs were removed....My friend reported that he had to wear ear defenders the din was so bloody loud. :oops::oops::oops: And the whole engine and underside of the bonnet was coated in watery oily sludge... Not such a bright idea. Ho hum! :lol: Mark.

Posted

Thats strange- I have no prob towing BX's .Earlier this week I collected a 16v BX GTi back from deepest Essex, rehoming it to the south coast. About 150 miles.I simply wound it to highest setting to get the chains on -reverted to normal, switched it off, towed it home.. I sank a little -but nothing serious -caused no probs.Likewise my1.4 povo spec- although the 4by4 needs lifting proper like....Better hydraulics I guess?

Posted

Yep it would work okay with spiffing hydraulics that stay up all day, but I know at the time my eBay BX was a quick sinker... plus what with the special braking setup... T'other BX had been standing for 2 years plus so wouldn't have stayed up properly for the 1.5-2 hr journey to Dorset either. GR8 4 REMOVIN YR EXHAUST ON SPEEDHUMPZ :lol: Mark.

Posted

Right ok so A framing it seems the way to go then. Hows it stand legally though with towing an untaxed, uninsured and untaxed car on the road? Is it worth boshing a one day insurance cover on it just to be safe?

Posted

If the car's touching the ground it should be fully legal. Yes, it's worth putting one day cover on. You get points for insurance but only a fine for tax and MOT. It also increases your chances of talking your way out of it if you do attract police attention.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...