Tech question - electrics- update - v low alt voltage...

[gtd2000]

Why not do a simple bench test of the starter motor before you go any further?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLZkBmHjAYM

[gtd2000]

I ended up getting a Bosch unit on eBay (brand new for £1 + £8.99 postage) supposedly to fit a Volvo Penta???

 

...WTF is that?

 

It's Volvo's marine engine division.

 

I wonder if they used Mitsubishi engines for that application?

[gtd2000]

S854 Starter Motor to fit Vehicles listed:

 

Applications

 

YUGO 45 903 83-86

 

YUGO 411 413 1300

 

YUGO 311 511 513 1100 84-90

 

YUGO 311 511 513 1300 84-90

 

YUGO 55/65 1116 84-91

 

YUGO 55/65 1298 84-91

 

YUGO TEMPO 903 91-93

 

YUGO LCV 311 1116 84-89

 

YUGO LCV 45A 903 88-89

 

YUGO LCV 55A 1100

 

Manufactures Part Numbers

 

AZE3502

 

AZE3508

 

 

Cross references

Known cross references for primary manufacturers are as follows

Current references:

Iskra

IS0519 AZE1211 12V 0,9kW z9, AZE1501 12V 0,8kW z9, AZE1520 12V 0,9kW z9, AZE3502 12V 0,8kW z9, AZE3508 12V 0,8kW z9, 11.130.102, 11.130.166, 11.130.321, 11.130.519, 11.130.964

 

 

 

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/S854-Yugo-45-55-65-311-511-Starter-Motor-/280485703663?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item414e402fef

 

S681 Starter Motor to fit the vehicles listed below:

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1400 90-93 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1400 i 90-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1600 90-93 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1600 i 90-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TIPO 1400 88-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TIPO 1600 88-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT UNO 70 1400 90-94 Refit Locating Dowel

 

LANCIA DEDRA 1600 i 90-94 Refit Locating Dowel

 

YUGO SANA 1400 89-93 Refit Locating Dowel

 

 

 

The original manufacturers part numbers for this item are listed below.

 

Iskra AZF3547

 

Lucas,Marelli 63221637

 

Lucas,Marelli 63222831

 

Lucas,Marelli 63223031

[scooters]

update.....well this morning the brand new battery I had fitted was flat as a pancake - nill zip jiuce nowt....zilch...

 

it han not been used once....

 

To make matters worse my multi meter leads have given up the ghost so I am now using a 12V bulb and here's what I have found:

 

I linked up the battery to the renner battery with jump leads...I then tested the current from -

 

Battery negative to battery positive - yes

 

Battery negative to positive starter solenoid - yes

 

battery negarive to positive starter motor - yes

 

live feed to igniion - nothing

 

in addition I noticed that ALL systems are not working even on jump leads - no lights, wipers, fag lighter - nothing

 

so somthing is not only draining the battery overnight and when the car is in use - a substanital drain as it is greater than the output of the alternator as the battery drains on the hoof but there is also a total leccy faliure across the whole car...

 

so I tred this:

 

Battery positive to battery earth on the bell housing - NO CURRENT

 

the conclusion is that the battery negative to earth lead has had it - could this cause the battery to drain? It would explain the total absence of leccy..

 

forgive my ignorance I didn't concentrate very hard in O grade physics

[scooters]

S854 Starter Motor to fit Vehicles listed:

 

Applications

 

YUGO 45 903 83-86

 

YUGO 411 413 1300

 

YUGO 311 511 513 1100 84-90

 

YUGO 311 511 513 1300 84-90

 

YUGO 55/65 1116 84-91

 

YUGO 55/65 1298 84-91

 

YUGO TEMPO 903 91-93

 

YUGO LCV 311 1116 84-89

 

YUGO LCV 45A 903 88-89

 

YUGO LCV 55A 1100

 

Manufactures Part Numbers

 

AZE3502

 

AZE3508

 

 

Cross references

Known cross references for primary manufacturers are as follows

Current references:

Iskra

IS0519 AZE1211 12V 0,9kW z9, AZE1501 12V 0,8kW z9, AZE1520 12V 0,9kW z9, AZE3502 12V 0,8kW z9, AZE3508 12V 0,8kW z9, 11.130.102, 11.130.166, 11.130.321, 11.130.519, 11.130.964

 

 

 

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/S854-Yugo-45-55-65-311-511-Starter-Motor-/280485703663?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item414e402fef

 

S681 Starter Motor to fit the vehicles listed below:

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1400 90-93 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1400 i 90-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1600 90-93 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TEMPRA 1600 i 90-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TIPO 1400 88-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT TIPO 1600 88-96 Refit Locating Dowel

 

FIAT UNO 70 1400 90-94 Refit Locating Dowel

 

LANCIA DEDRA 1600 i 90-94 Refit Locating Dowel

 

YUGO SANA 1400 89-93 Refit Locating Dowel

 

 

 

The original manufacturers part numbers for this item are listed below.

 

Iskra AZF3547

 

Lucas,Marelli 63221637

 

Lucas,Marelli 63222831

 

Lucas,Marelli 63223031

 

 

brilliant thanks

[nigel bickle]

Run a jump lead earth across, & a live wire from the Renner to the starter solenoid.It should trigger it.If you then touch ther large terminal with the other Renner attached juump lead -you should crank over. If its still dead run a hot wire from the battery to the coil direct. Then it must start....

[scooters]

cheers nige - tried all that and still kaput - the new earth is maing a difference because at least I am getting some current.

 

However, the starter solenoid seems to be the culprit - I took it off and rubbed some talc into the plastic - dizzy cap bakelite stuff it is made of and sure enough - hairline crack...

 

can't be replaced will have to replace the whole unit but given itis pretty ropey probably not a bad idea.

 

been at this for 14 hours now and getting rather cheesed orf - such can kill affection for a car no matter how much you might love it - getting near that point with the yugo..

 

I'll source a new starter motor and will replace the ignition barrel and lock at the same tme as the switch is very worn.

[scooters]

ok - I splodged some super glue on the solenoid and bench tested and it seems to be working ok..

 

now - this one for the stupid quesiton amnesty really but I am going fecking mad here -

 

pls can someone talk me through what wires go on the back of the starter solenoid -

 

solenoid earth to starter motor

 

battery to large positive

 

alternator to large posteive

 

ignition to small positive

 

that's it...isn't it?

 

because I have an O ring 30amp wire waving around which comes from the main loom....what the fuck is that?

 

AAAAAAAARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

 

 

If I had a tardis I would go back to 1985 and kick the arse of the spotty yoof who instead of being in Miss McInally's Physics class was tabbin regals behind the Janitor's portacabin!

[Station]

Something is activated when it shouldn't be (ie it should be switched off with the key). Have you got a cigarette lighter in the car? It would require significant current to drain a new battery overnight.

 

Is the wire live? If you haven't touched anything else and it's thick gauge, it'll go on the starter motor, the only thing that uses that type of wire is the starter and engine earths.

[scooters]

ok,

Staion, I think you are spot on mate.

 

I spent a long time last night on one of the US Yugo forums - whilst the 45 was never sold in the states the electrical systems are the same as the GT series over there -

 

it seems that faults round recharging are always an issue with Yugos as are the 'mysterious battery recharge' and the reason why this flumoxes us imperialists is that we rightly assume that any car of this vintage would have a chraging system/starter relay - only the Yugo doesn't. When this is combined wirth aged wiring systems, fuse boxes and a fiat ignition barrel only slightly better than the crappest of all - the 1990's Chrysler switch then typical faliures are either an open or damaged circuit somwhere or a knackered ignition switch - most American Yugo owners end up modifying the fusebox by replacing all whe ceramic fueses with glass ones and installing a start button on the dash which can be protected by having a simple key switch immobilizer somewhere.

 

They have suggested that I get a nice big bit of A3, some coloured pens and draw out the wiring diagram and compare it to what is in the car and then take the multi meter, disconnect the battery and test the resistance of the whole circuit from the positive batery terminal to the earth - then, if, and there will likely be a positive reading - remove each fuse with the multimeter still reading OHMS until the culprit circuit is identified and then test every inch of that circuit for resistance. This should identify the issue as the culprit could sill be working but not at the right efficiancy - this is why the igition switch is so often responsible - it will still 'work' but just no longer deliver the right amout of current to crank the motor.

 

They also said that it lookd like I have been chasing a number of symptoms assuming they are pointing to the one problem - forgetting that this isn't a Volvo and the chances are that with the heavy use I have been putting the car to since buying it from Nige, the problems are only manifesting themselves now and under a milage that the car has never done.

 

So I will follow thier advice, there is no quick fix here, everything has to be tested and when required, replaced.

 

The biggest problem for me is that I need the car..really need the car and for the first time in several years have no back up vehicle so getting this fixed quickly is a priority.

[garethj]

Here's a handy way to test for current draw, this will show you if you've got a short circuit somewhere that's draining your battery.

 

Take your multimeter and set it to measure Amps, there's usually a different way to connect the wires, and there's a maximum of 10Amps so make sure everything (heated rear window, lights etc) are switched off.

 

Unto the battery earth connector and put the multimeter in. Multimeter earth goes to earth wire, multimeter positive goes to the battery.

 

See if you've got any current flowing. You should have none, or very nearly nothing. If it's 0.1Amps then maybe the clock or stereo is drawing some current to keep the memory going, nothing to worry about.

 

If it's more than that, you've got a short circuit somewhere. Here's how to find it - take out one fuse at a time until the current drops to zero, when it does, that's the circuit your short is on. Check through the wiring diagram to see what's there and follow all the wires to see if some bare wire is rubbing against the bodyshell or something

[scooters]

Thanks fellah.

 

 

Am away from home just now so will sort at the weekend. Have borrowed a decent millimeter rather than my shit one and a soldering iron as am going to take sams advice and get critical connections soldered and labled.

 

One thought....I have been unable to locate an engine earth strap....however I have noticed that the battery earth cable is a unique affair. Halfway along its 3 foot length is an earth point that bolts to the front wing in a substantial way. I replaced the battery cable with a generic one straight to the engine point but, given there is no earth strap I now suspect that the wing mounted earth is the main earth and the cable doubles as an engine earth strap. I'll source a new yugo specific one.

 

S

[nigel bickle]

Rich -this is a simple 'lil car -you just cant be having all these 'issues'.

 

2 probs -starter & charging.

 

Starter is simple -known good jump lead conneted to it, then the battery. It will turn it over if theres life left. They dont often fail suddenly -unless fiddled with.

 

Once running. the charging issue needs a meter. Alternator is new- & wasnt pattern, so its unlikely to have failed. Check the wiring back. With your 'apparent' power loss -I'd be looking at the fusebox.

 

I'd recommend a local auto electrician cos you seem to be going backwards. Another set of eyes might see the' wood from the trees'

 

Part of the attraction here is its simplicity......

[alf892]

WHS about wood and trees!

 

Lets go simples........

 

You will have a large cable from the battery to the solenoid. This will be live all the time so will light your test light if battery any good. This connects to the solenoid. Also on this side of the solenoid there may be a connection for auxilaries (them bits which are not working!).

 

The small wire is the one that powers (switches) the solenoid........if you connect your test light here ( and earth) it will lit up only when the ignition switch is in the start position. Note that the solenoid itself requires a good earth or it can't switch. Does it click when operated??

 

The other large cable goes to the starter. If you put your test light here it will only light when key is in start position. If you have volts here it should try and turn.

 

All the above assumes you have a decent battery to do the test with though. Also it is possible to get a volts at the starter but not enough current to turn over if the solenoid is u/s. You can check this by checking resistance through the solenoid........oh and a crack in the solenoid casing should not cause any bother.

 

I think someone has already tryped out how to check for current drain with an ammeter so I won't bother

[scooters]

Thanks fellahs

 

Will give it another go when I get back from teuchter land. Interestingly I left my old multimeter with a mate who dabbles in electronics..he ran a diagnostic on it and it turns out it is so badly made that the fused socket.....wasn't....this hasn't helped!

 

Lesson one....if a multimeter costs 3 quid new on eBay there is a reason!

[Station]

Get the ones from B&Q, they're only six quid - 10 quid. I got the digital one and analogue one, they've lasted about 4 years of pretty much constant use.

Hope you get it sorted, I bet it something -really stupid-!

[scooters]

well,

 

returned from Killin this afternoon armed with your advice, the Yugo USA advice and many videos from Youtube on best ways to locate various electrical faults by slack jawed yokles in the midwest but they are rather good and I would recommend Youtube for 'how to' demos...

 

Anyway

 

I removed the starter motor, stripped it down, cleaned it and reassembled it - then bench tested it and it whirred into life - looks like there was a short or a load of dirt clogging it up - the position of the starter motor on the 903cc is such that when the rocker cover gasket leaks (which it always does) and when you fill the car with oil it usually finds its way onto the starter motor.

 

Anyway, greatly encouraged I refitted it. I then tested the resistance of all starter circuits and they all showed OK.

 

Next I started to trace the leak - wired up the battery to the multimeter and removed fuses - hey presto the culprit was the main beam off side - draining 8amps of juice - definately the problem.

 

In addition I discovered the fag lighter was soaking up 10 amps due to a short -

 

the total drain was greater than the charge of the alternator which not only explains the drain overnight but would this also be the case if, after driving for a few hours with lights, wipers etc on the car was draining the battery.

 

Anyway I fitted the jump leads from the Renner and tried to start...

 

battery, brake and loil light came on, solenoid shifted with a nice loud click - much stronger than before and .....nothing.

 

So, my thoughts turned to the igition barrel which the US Yugo forums explain is often the cause.

 

The switch in question has to be the most pisspoor bit of shite design I have ever come across...even more shit than what I thought was the most shit - the Chrysler K Class ignition barrel

 

essentially the mechanism is a plastic cylinder into which go the four wires spaced like the numbers on a clock - on one face of the cylinder there are 3 small plastic pegs which go into the cylinder corresponding to the ancilliaries, ignition and hotwire- now when you turn the key THE WHOLE cylinder turns and the 3 pegs are incrementally forced into the cylinder by knobbly bits which are fixed to the lock body...after a while the constant turning causes problems and the switch will carry enough current to switch the solenoid but not enough to crank the engine.

 

OK so I cut all the wires into the lock, stripped them back, twisted the 3 function wires together and hotwired the car...

 

The starter turned more strongly than ever and the car burts into life on the second touch

 

! Fanfuckingdabbiedozie!

 

checked the amps across the battery and the alternator was giving out 13 on the dot!

 

The ignition lock is a bitch to replace as it requires drilling out and I am not interested in fitting another rubbish switch...so I decided to try and bodge a starter button and switch...

 

OK I found a strong switch from an old sander and wired it all up - connected the battery and fried the live link to the starter motor....ah....the cheap spade connectors I used couldn't cope with the amps...nearly set fire to the car!

 

I stripped the burnt out wire back to the first connector - fortunately, the damage only extends that far so I have removed the wire.

 

Tomorrow I will buy a switch and a button from halfrauds and some 30amp wire and a new connector and create a new loom to the new starter button I will install.

 

I'll then wire in a starter button and mount it on the dash - I'll fit an imobilizing switch hidden and still use the steering lock and the big security lock I use.

 

Has anyone any expereince of fitting these? Any tips...

 

 

So - the faults have all been identified and I just need to repair the damage and solve the full beam short - I have not yet found the short.

 

Thanks for everyone's help - the issues have been numerous and straightforward except for the ignition switch which is specific.

 

incidentally, you can't really blame Zastava for the switch - it is the same as is found on the Fiat X 1/9 and is notoriously crap on that car as well!

[Station]

Well done! Is it the rotary style switch, I think it will be, have a look around some Vauxhall/Rover cars as they have this and they seem to outlast the car. Just splice the thick, black wire and put some wire a switch somewhere.

[scooters]

Further update...

 

I had a hectic day, not helped by the Yugo! This morning I had a must make appointment at 11 this morning in the middle of Edinburgh followed by a 1.30-6.30 meeting out in Fife -0 a 30-40min drive away...so I left the house at 8 in the Renner and headed to the factors to buy:

 

1 x 25 amp toggle switch

several meters of 30amp wire in several colours

a pack of 30amp spade connectors....

 

you'd be surprised at how tricky it is to locate such items for immedate use - 2 factors I tried had none in stock and I eventally ended up in Halfrauds who had some of the stuff - £28 later!!! I headed home.. with 2 toggle switches the wire and the connectors, I couldn't find a realistically proced starter btton.

 

I had to work quickly, ir was now 0940 and I would have to leave by 1040 and I needed the car to be working.

 

I inspected the damage from last night and the cables had been burned out as far back as the connector to the loom. I removed the connector and mounted spade connectors, ran 30 amp cable from all with decent lengths - tow of these I bound together to another spade connector which went on one of the switch terminals.the other switch terminal carried the black wire and also the feed from the hot wire. because I couldn't locate a decent starter b8tton I wired in a toggle switch on the hot wire. I tried starting and once again not enough crank on the hotwire so I removed the connectors from thge hot wire switch and touched the connectors - this time the engine burst into life. So it loks like you really do need a 30 amp rated switching device - 25 amps just won't cut it. Looks like I will have to find a better solution. I'm going to order a generic ignition switch which has off park and on so I have some key security even if pisspoor...I am then going to source a decent starter button and mount it in the hole where the current ignition switch sits..the car doesn't seem to have a wheel lock but I am using the keys just in case there is one and for whatever reason it is not working better keep the key turned should it suddenly start working again at 60mph!

Got it started at 1035 and headed off at 1040...

 

I went to my 11 meeting and didn't get out till 1230. Got back to the car and - oh yes - no power in the battery - I popped the bonnet and kicked myself as the battery I had connected the night before was the poor one...it had a bit of juice in it which is why I was using it yesterday for circuit testing - I just neglected to mount the brand new flat one when jump starting the car! Doh!

 

So - middle of Edinburgh in a parking space where I cant get another vehicle in to jump, the road is too buys to push out and there is no hill of any sort or space for a bump...shit...clock now ticking...anyway, I noticed a tyre and battery shop - somthing you rarely find in the middle of cities these days and crossed to chat to them. A deal was done and for £5 they put my new, dead battery on their rapid charger for an hour I phoned the Fife meeting and put it back an hour whilst I returned to the car to work on a few things that needed tidying.

 

Fielding 4 questions of the 'nice Mk1 Golf mate' type and 'I bet she's a flyer' - the car is still unbadged...I concentrated on using some of the wire and the time to replace some of the charging circuts.

 

now, good practice is to always remove any loose wires you may have lying about and the previous night I had not seen that the hotwire I had running form the coil to the battery was still attached to the coil and hanging out the bottom of the car - I pulled it up and laid it on the engine so I could unbolt it - Next thing you know smoke was pouring out of the dizzy and the wire to the dizzy burst into flames - Shit! I ripped the wire off the coil, pulled off the dizzy cap and the wire in the points was in flames - blew it out and let it cool down....

 

bollocks!! I hadn't even started working on the car so was just about to disconnect the battery - a lesson in working on electrics a/ when tired and b/in the dark!!! Also from now on the very first thing I will do before looking at the electrics is to disconnect the battery. I'm gonna install a battery key to make this easier.

 

OK, so now I had an 8amp wire to replace - which I did and also the points to rescue (I had no spare ones). Now these cars are pretty simple and also robust - I tested the resistance of the fragged wire in the dizzy and amazingly it was still fine - so I cleaned it up a bit, blew away the debris, checked the whole points circuit for resistance and it all checked out fine...I'll say one thing about Yugos - they are made, on the whole from stern stuff!

 

I also replaced the carge wire out the back of the alternator with a new connection cos it was running pretty hot.

 

An hour had now passed so I returned to the shop, collected the battery which showed a full and powerful charge - plumbed it in and vrooommm! started first time on the button.

 

I belted the 25 miles out to Fife and on arrival disconnected the battery whilst parket...I still need to check the drain from the lighting circuit.

 

well...you live and learn!

 

Car is now running fine.

 

I do need to do the following:

 

- fix the battery drain from the high beam circuit

- fit a proper starter button

- refit the badges

- refit the air box (missing a part - Nige..I don't suppose you have come across the adapter that sits between the carb and the box? It's the one with the holes for the breather return and the recirculate)

- get some underseal on the bottom and sills

- touch up some of the paintwork and the worst of the rust

- give it a good tune up - the car is currently running quite rich and there is a quantity of white smoke on throttle load but this could be the huge quantity of Redex I put in when my hand slipped last week

 

 

 

Time was now an issue

[254575]

good bodging, £5 to charge a battery for an hour! i hope you swore at them

[nigel bickle]

Give me a clue what this adaptor looks like & I'll have a rummage. Cant think what you're missing.

 

Might have an old Fiat 125 ignition switch up the barn. Same design -properly made 60's shite. Want me to go hunt?

In the short term -unplug your headlamp. That'll stop the short. Can only be miswired -strange as it worked normally..

Cigarette lighter worked too -for the sat nav -so somethings happened to the wiring. Cant think where they all converge- fusebox perhaps?

 

Waddya want to fit badges for when the bar-room ewxpert thinks its a Mk1 Golf Gti- as I told you? Much kudos.

[scooters]

not sure what it looks like but it will be a short pipe with a flange at one end for 2 bolts to bolt it to the carb - the other end has no flange and you just push the airbox on top of it - I suspect that it also has 2 inlets - one for the rocker cover to air box pipe and the other for the pipe that comes out of the carb and is blocked up with a nut - can't remember what it is for! If you can't find it then it may never have existed but I suspect that it might have as there is a 2 bolt flange (with bolts) on the top of the carb and no holed on the airbox to reciprocate.

 

If you could find an ignition switch I wold be greatful but don't go to too much effort crawling around lofts especially with your backthe way it is - the bodge works fine at the moment

 

Badge wise I haven't decided yet - I may keep it as is but good to have a set anyway and Sam got em for me for free

 

cheers nige

 

I've unplugged the main beam offside which is the circuit where the current is draining - don't forget I've done 2500 hard miles in this car since I got it from you so it's no surprise if one or two issues are manifesting - could be running on something and it eventually rubbed through - won't know till I go through the circuit

[dollywobbler]

I vote for putting the badges back on. Is it really that cool to pretend it's a Golf? That mind-set is what causes people to ruin their MR2s to make Ferrari copies.

[nigel bickle]

I take my badges off everything DW (except the 25 v6turbo -which is now badged as a 1.3).

 

Just like to keep the 'experts' guessing. Sad -I know

[barefoot]

I'm really curious as to whether you keep them in a drawer, bin them...

 

or do you perhaps have a wall covered in everything you've ever owned...

 

or do you sell them for massive profit?

 

I am fascinated by this.

[nigel bickle]

Why?

 

I've a big box full of badges- plus a few loose floating about until the two coincide.

[scooters]

Well,

 

the Yug has been working rather well over the last few days - as you may know I putit up for sell/swaps and a nice lad in Edinburgh was interested in swapping for his cooking 190e 1.8 auto (a right giffer)

 

anyway - I popped round today and we went for a spin in the Yug - great fun as usual - I pull over swiths it off with the heath robisonon starting method - and of course the fucker won't start again so we bump start - no problem

 

Back to look at the merc - nice motor - needs a bit of fettling and a bit on the tappety side but nothing to get too worried about - had to jump start the Yugo again and went home with a 'come back to me if you get the charging sorted' arrangement. Anyway, deove home and checked the ampage across the terminals - 18 amps!....rather high....

 

suspect cooked battery

 

OR

 

it culd just be that the battery, although new, has been run down one time too many?? any ideas?

 

oh - the other thing I noticed was I left the car idling for a while and there was a rather large pool of clean oil underneath it - shit - then I realised that a bottle of oil I was storing under the bonnet was leaking....doh!

[scooters]

right dropped a known good battery in and - just ran the car 40 miles - to the office and back - had to jump start it and it ran brilliantly - engine sounding very sweet - everything working as it should. Got home, ried to start it again and zilch - nothing - not a bean ....looks suspiciously at the new alternator!

[scaryoldcortina]

Hey, just a quick question - I've been following your troubles and something concerns me... can you tell the difference between volts and amps?

 

for example

checked the ampage across the terminals - 18 amps!....rather high....

 

first, you check volts across the circuit (parallel) and amps in line (series).

second, 18A would be low across a car battery, but 18V worryingly high

 

not having a dig, but if you have got the two mixed up then some of the other stuff earlier in the thread makes more sense.

[scooters]

yup sorry - I muddled up vots and amps in my previous post - I was rushing out of the door..

 

I was measureing the voltage across the terminals to measure the output of the alternator - this is how I repaired the problem with the 850 - changed the voltage regulator - returnned from 24V to 13.5V that time.

 

This time the volts across are 18V...

 

However, before I start replacing anything I am going to have a look at the battery earth....in the Yugo it is a bit different from other vehicles and looks a weak spot to me - here's how it works - it is a single cable doing two jobs and it is rather long (1m)

 

 

Engine Earth Wing Earthing Point negative battery terminal

 

||-------------------------------------------------------------------------||------------------------------------------------------------------||

 

so there is no earthing strap - the engine earths via the same cable to the wing - the cable has a stripped bit with an O ring and earths to the wing with a bolt.

 

Another point is that I have not been using a Yugo standard Battery - the ones I have been using have a crank of 360A but the standard Yugo battery has 380A -

 

The alternator is a non Yugo one