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Primer / rust treatment


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Posted

Bit of a bone question from an amateur here but after a long, unfruitful period of staring at shelves in Halfords today, I'd be grateful for advice...

 

I've got some minor (I think) rust to treat around the arches and sills of the BMW 316 that my other half has recently had the misfortune of inheriting. I'm pretty clear on what to do but what I'm not sure about is the best type of primer to use - paint-on Hammerite stuff or spray paint. Or perhaps it makes no difference? Can anyone vouch for either?

 

Despite being a longstanding Rover man and hence having a tendency use "BMW" as a swear word, I do want to do a decent, lasting job on this because it was her old man's pride and joy... so any other top tips gratefully received. Cheers!

Posted

Don't use Hammerite - when it hardens (after about a week - in which time it's filthy) it chips off easily, and just looks a mess, I hate seeing it on cars! It's also overpriced. Great for gates though.

Paint zinc primer on, then put stonechip on it. They're both about 5 quid each.

Posted

Jenolite. A red jelly-like substance. Comes in a black bottle with an red cap. There's other stuff called "Preparation H" or somesuch that a lot of guys on RR seem to rate, however I can't remember its correct name.

Posted

Bilt Hammer Hydrate 80 on the bare metal, then fill, prime and paint it as normal. That stuff is very good. Quite pricey though but lasts for a long time. I did all the imp with one and a half bottles.

 

All these suggestions are probably quite good, horses for courses and all that. Probably a similar result in the long run.

Posted

Practical Classics are doing a long term rust treatment test. If I've still got the magazine, I'll post up later what has been concluded so far.

 

In the past I've used Kurust and Finnigans anti rust primer which have done the job ok on surface rust. IIRC, they are both made by Finnigans who also make Hammerite. I'm not sure that Hammerite itself is much use as a rust treatment finish.

Posted

I splodged something onto some end of sill big rusty stonechips on my mothers car about 5 or 6 years ago, never got around to (bothered my arse) doing it properly, it stopped the rust dead, left a black coating which looks just dandy on a white Golf, wish I could remember what it was, anyway, I've recently bought a couple of bottles of something called Vactan as it's said to leave a black coating, so I'm hoping it's the same thing, I'll post back here in 5 or 6 years and confirm whether it's any good or not.

Posted

Another vote for Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80. Good stuff. Shame I can't just dip my 2CV in a vat of it.

Posted
Another vote for Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80. Good stuff. Shame I can't just dip my 2CV in a vat of it.

 

It is indeed awesome stuff.

Posted
Shame I can't just dip my 2CV in a vat of it.

 

I took the Imp back from its dark blue paint to bare metal to make sure there were absolutely no more hidden horrors waiting for me, painted it in Hydrate 80 and it turned to dark blue again. It looked as though I had done sod all on it.

Posted
I splodged something onto some end of sill big rusty stonechips on my mothers car about 5 or 6 years ago, never got around to (bothered my arse) doing it properly, it stopped the rust dead, left a black coating which looks just dandy on a white Golf, wish I could remember what it was, anyway, I've recently bought a couple of bottles of something called Vactan as it's said to leave a black coating, so I'm hoping it's the same thing, I'll post back here in 5 or 6 years and confirm whether it's any good or not.

 

:lol:

Posted

^Mine's in the car; I'll post up a synopsis of the story to date, tomorrow after work, if you want?

Posted
^Mine's in the car; I'll post up a synopsis of the story to date, tomorrow after work, if you want?

 

That would be great - thanks!

Posted

Alrighty, a little later than planned, but here goes! This month's PC test of rust removers/converters on the guinea pig Saffy, which has been left all winter with no paint.

 

Hammerite Kurust - 7/10

Works in about 20 mins, nice and thick, so easy to use; but a bit pricey, and there's better stuff on the market.

KBS RustBlast - 7/10

Hard work, as it needs to be kept wet; finished surface didn't flash rust and good for welding on, apparently.

Neutrarust 661 - 7/10

Cheap, runny and needs a few coats to work; good for cavities

Granville H/D Rust Cure - 7/10 *BEST BUDGET BUY*

Smelly, needs a couple of coats, but medium viscosity.

Jenolite - 8/10

Needs two coats 15 mins apart, works in 30, after which paint needs to be be chucked on. Liquid or gel as appropriate.

Eastwood Rust Dissolver - 8/10

Liquid, but clings well enough; works in an hour, but needs paint straight away

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 9/10 *RECOMMENDED*

Needs two coats 30 mins apart, ready to paint in 24 hours; instructions seem a little odd!

Rustbuster FE-123 10/10 *BEST BUY*

Semi-viscous, works easily and can be diluted for cavity use. Works in 20 mins, good to paint in 2-4 hours.

 

Hope that helps. I might have some Hydrate 80 myself, for both cars. And the bikes. In fact I might just weald my debit card in Bilt Hamber's direction - most of their stuff seems to come recommended!

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