Shite cambelt

[gurnsimps]

Hi,has anyone on here any knowledge of changing a cambelt on one of these?

Its a 1991 1500 12 valve,can't get a haynes manual or find any info on how to do it!!

Anyone??

[messerschmitt owner]

is there a forum for them somewhere?

[messerschmitt owner]

No Haynes manual ....

 

http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langID=-1

 

http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stor ... y_rn=10228

 

Take your pic - one must be ok

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I'm guessing, but i imagine that will be a SOHC and pretty straightforward.If you are struggling, see if a friendly local garage mechanic will let you take a digi photo of the relevant page in their Autodata timing belt manual, in exchange for a can of beer or something.Failing that, just mark everything up yourself before you whip the old cambelt off then make sure your marks all line up properly when the new belt is on.

[GJR 11L]

For any car where tension and general fitting info isn't available, I'd recommend removing half of the old belt by slowly turning the engine by hand and holding a Stanley carpet blade at the centre of the belt then, when the belt has been reduced to half its original depth, you simply slip the new one on from the front and cut across the remaining bit of the old one, take that off and push home the new belt. This technique allows pretty much any timing belt to be swapped in half the typical ICME time for the job and retains correct tension.

[alf892]

There is one very easy way if you haven't a clue on the marks or if it is one of those nasty ones where you have to set the cams with a dial gauge.With the engine running and belt cover off you hold a stanley knife against the belt and cut the belt in half across it's width. Now you still have the full belt driving everything around but it is in two parts. You then switch off and remove one half of the belt. Then take the new belt and slide it onto the pulleys halfway. Then cut off the remaining half of the old belt and you can slide the belt fully on. If required you can adjust (or replace) the tensioner.Rather than split the belt with the engine running you could do it on the starter but you probably get a more wobbly (therefore riskier) cut.Simples??? took me 20 fooking minutes to type that!! Apologies for duplicate post

[Lankytim]

I find this is by far the quickest way for any type of drive belt on an engine.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcB5-jSqdH0

[richardthestag]

I find this is by far the quickest way for any type of drive belt on an engine.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcB5-jSqdH0

Brilliant

[Minimad5]

gurnsimps PM me your email address and the cars details, i can then send you afew screenshots from AutodataI did this for Pog (i think) and i guess it worked

[gurnsimps]

Thanks for all the help guys.

[Minimad5]

Emailed you the info'

[red5]

Beat me to it. Got a load of workshop manuals in pdf for future reference.

[Station]

This probably won't be of help but:I have the workshop manual on rebuilding the these Mitsubishi engines in pdf format.

[Station]

Just checked, it's deffo your engine:

 

Download it HERE. (Right click, save as).

[GJR 11L]

....Apologies for duplicate post

A dozen people could post that method and there'd still be people who prefer to take Hours and do it "by the book!" Just one slight issue with your description, and please don't be offended but....It's better to turn the engine manually (spanner on the bottom pulley bolt for example) than to have it running when you're cutting, just in case the unthinkable happens.... (Yes, I once did and yes, it's still far too raw and embarrassing to talk about. Fortunately, the victim had a non-interference head so only my pride was damaged.....)

[aled]

same engine as the proton magma 1.5. i got the autodata cambelt book with it in.