Rust Proofing

[Alexg]

Ahoy Shitters,

 

I bought the 75 V6 two years ago and, I have to say, it's the f**king tits. So much so I've decided that I'll keep it until it's FUBAR'D. To prolong the inevitable decline into neighbourhood tone-lowering garden furniture, I'm thinking about rust proofing it as best as possible. It's totally rust free at the moment, so makes sense to act now before it gets crunchy.

 

I've had a quote for Mercasol treatment. It includes the treatment of the underbody, chassis, axles, suspension components, door cavities and sills. It takes a day to do and will cost £495, with the work warranted for a few years. http://www.carrusttreatment.co.uk/mercasol-car-rust-protection/

 

I'm ignorant about this really, so any shitters had similar done? I'm surprised by the lack of information and treatment companies online when searching. I'm in Kent, short of free time, and won't want to travel too far. 

 

Any advise? 

[mercrocker]

I agree that it's hard to find reviews and recommendations on this type of service.   Never heard of this system but that doesn't make it bad, just I would want to see other examples of their treatment.   I usually do this stuff myself but thinking of getting my 190E done by the local MB independent who offer a bespoke (to the car) treatment.   They want much more monies, though and I know my friend had his Consul done similarly and it cost him twice what Mercasol want - about the same that I have been quoted.   They want the car for 2 days, too.   If I take all the liners off and prep the car it gets down to more like £500.        

 

Trouble is, even with a 3 year warranty its going to be a bit longer than that before you see whether or not it's worked!   If they don't do it correctly or comprehensively there is a chance they could actually be making things worse.   I would trawl some other forums to see if there is any feedback or helpful information - VW camper ones if you can bear it as they rust like buggery.

[PiperCub]

Would agree that three years is a bit short to find out if it's good or not! £500 is a good deal of cash however you slice it and I'd be worried that things may get covered up. 

 

Sorry to say this but this is something I'd always do myself, yes, it's rather unpleasant and quite labourious & boring but at the end you know it's been done properly and that's worth way more to me. I did both my keepers (205GTi & Mk1 MX5) a few years ago using Dintirol and bought a proper applicator kit (to go on the compressor) to do it. Made a previously awkward job a lot easier and more thorough. 

 

Appreciate you may not want to invest in the actual kit to do it but for me it's the only proper way, I just wouldn't trust anyone else to do it as thoroughly as I'd do it as I'm the owner. 

[sierraman]

Rover 75s don't seem to rot except in a few specific locations. I'd just buy a tin of waxoyl and blast these locations.

[Skizzer]

^ or better, Bilt-Hamber Dynax instead of Waxoyl. Comparison here: http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?283826-Comprehensive-S14a-refurb/page84&p=4032850&highlight=dynax%20test#post4032850

[Royale80]

I bought a gallon of wax from rust buster.

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/rustbuster-profesional-rust-proofing-kits/p509443

 

I've got a Aldi compressor and a proper applicator gun with the extension probes. Makes things a lot easier. When I did the inner wheel arches on the Royale-I removed any rust and loose bits-treated with Bilt Hamber and then primed with epoxy primer. Painted on top with thick gloss paint and then underseal on top.

 

Seems to work. 

 

I usually do "temporary" rust repairs the same way-except miss out the underseal and use an old tin of yellow gloss that I've had for 20 years (proper stuff)-then a whizz over with proper colour spray. Looks ok from 100 yards.

 

I like to use my cars all weathers.

 

Steve

[Split_Pin]

I bought 2 cans of Dinitrol from ebay which came with a metre long lance. They cost about 25 quid for the pair and will do all box sections, doors and such like.

 

I would be wary of spending nearly £500 at this stage. In my experience, the box sections were still in really good condition after 5 years but its the places that such treatments dont address that's the issue. Edges, flanges, around drain/vent holes in chassis, joins may already be corroded.

 

I would suggest that the sort of treatment which you mention would be best for cars which have already been restored or are new.

 

My advice would be to get a narrow belt sander for about 40 quid, some bilt hamber, hammerite and some Tetrosyl or similar to finish off and just do it yourself. Bit of a shitty job to have to do but the alternatice seems really expesive.

[steveo3002]

like hell would i pay 500 sheets- and the warrenty sounds like bollocks , how would you warrenty rust on a used car  , could be rotten as a pear already  

 

spend a bit on some cans of dintrol or bilthamber and spend a morning drowning it in all the cavitys /door bottoms etc 

[oldcars]

As is said rot seems to be certain areas. The rear jacking points have got worse this year. I put bilthamber wax spray on them two years back, but it had worn off so used waxoil before the winter and they are rusting up well now.

[xtriple]

When the Big Green Dollop was stuck on Specialist Cars ramp for weeks (waiting for new front suspension) I begged and pleaded with them to rust proof underneath which they really didn't want to do as the mess and smell etc was a nuisance.

 

However, as the car was blocking one entire bay, they eventually agreed and spent days rubbing at all down underneath and the same in the wheelarches (I suppose with no suspension or arch liners in the way made the job rather easier) then painted it and rust-prooded with schlutz (Shultz?) and then loads of Dinotrol stuff. They charged me purely for the materials, no labour at all which I considered a 'proper result'. So, get it on a garages lift, need something that removes major suspension componenets so the wheels cannot go back on and then, while they are waiting for bits, get them to do it for free