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repainting questions


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Posted

O.K so I,am due shortly to get my Dads 1966 Triumph 2000 back to me after many years away,its always been garaged and was repainted in 1984(he bought it in 1974)its now showing its age and needs a repaint,its very solid,needs no welding but does need attention,problem is I,am on abit of a budget and time restriction as I want to attend a few local shows which will start maybe about April,i have a nice size garage and the light is good,now my question is how best to tackle a blow over paint job,i,am NOT after anything show standards,but want it to look nice and smart but no show winner,i,ve worked on it many times so know how it all comes apart,so what is best,i will strip all chrome,trims etc from it but then what??

Do I best bare metal it all over.

Can I get away with just using a sander and not going bare metal?

Can I get away with an aerosol primer then gun the top coats etc(Triumph white)

Any tips to help,i need to watch the neighbours abit as they are curtain twitchers with nothing better to do than moan,so a compressor running 24/7 might not go down well,although I have been offered one!!

I painted it when I was 11!!!!

Posted

hows the paint now?

 

cracked /crazed/peeling off = strip it back to bare metal

 

if its solid but tired then you can just key it and paint over it 

 

if its just spot repairs then you could dust the over with rattle can primer

 

get some pics of the good and bad and i will help if i can

Posted

Its cracked and crazed on a few panels,but others are fine,just tied,its never had a top job on it but always looked presentable enough.

Posted

If space is available, and you aren't in a rush, would brush painting it in enamel be a possibility?

 

There are lots of threads on YouTube and would probably give a '66 Triumph a more "natural" finish than a high gloss 2k repaint using modern materials. You can also spray with it if you have access to a compressor. Have a look at Tekaloid paints.

 

I have seen some hand painted motors (my Dad hand painted our Renault 12 in 1987 using Cannons Repaint) which actually come out pretty well. Once flatted back and polished with compound the results are actually very good.

 

The other advantage is it is quiet and no risk of errant spray landing on neighbours cars/windows/washing etc

Posted

First question I'd ask is does it really need it. A cheap blowover soon looks worse than paint work pre cheap repaint, ime. There's so much prep involved in painting, you may as well do a good job.

 

But, shiny new paint (especially darker shades) highlights all panel imperfections - I've seen older cars with perfect new paint make the car look worse.

 

So long as you know that, it'll be fine. And don't rule out brush painting older British cars - with some rubbing down between coats and a good final coat I've seen cars look better than a poor respray.

Posted

Points taken,i,am open to any option on this,i won,t be repainting it in a day and I,am prepared to try and make the best job I can,but it won,t be to bodyshop standards,i live in a little Devon seaside town and just want it to be something different for the locals to see...

Have read about using a roller or brush painting and I will continue to read about that,although I,ve hearn rollering can take many coats and its tricky,i don,t mind using a spraygun.

Posted

right

 

so the panels that have failiure on them need sanding back , the sound ones can stay as they are and just be keyyed with something 400 on a da 

 

if you can spray then i would ...rollering will be a long drawn out job with no gains , and you still need to carry out the proper prep work underneath 

Posted

Is doing the prep and masking then paying somebody with a booth to paint it an option , if you want the best results that's how I'd go

 

Painting a car in a less than perfect conditions never ends well , a mate did a defender I had ,I did all the prep then bought a huge tent thing to keep the bugs off but it came out patchy due to him spraying it when it was too hot so the paint was dry by the time it hit the panels

 

The lacquer saved it a bit and after a lot of buffing I got it to 70% of what I'd have been happy with but that's as good as it got

Posted

Prep, prep, prep. I've painted panels for various cars over the years and you cannot spend enough time on prep. I've used rattle can primer and even for colour before, although that gets expensive quickly.

Best bet is a compressor and spray gun, not expensive and Aldi/Lidl often have them cheap. Sand back any imperfections and blend in over a large area rather than just rubbing a small spot. The bigger a sanding block you have the better the results will be, white is a good colour as it hides minor imperfections well. Another good idea is to dust matt black lightly over primer and then wet and dry with something like 400 grit, you'll be amazed how many high/low spots that will reveal. I've lined the garage using those cheap plastic decorating dust sheets because you will disturb dust however careful you are. Try and give it a few good coats rather than one thick one, and once it's hardened for a week or two wet and dry with 1000/1500/2000 grit, rubbing compound and t-cut or similar.

If you can it might be easier to paint individual panels, the large ones like boot and bonnet, and especially the roof are the hardest to get right.

 

Good luck, keep us updated.

 

Here are a few bits I've done;

 

35582248251_dd101dcb2f_z.jpgP7160001 by RS, on Flickr

 

35544409062_e2df5232f1_z.jpgP7180009 by RS, on Flickr

 

^ Rattle cans, outside

 

35544407402_3d11f3150c_b.jpgPhoto32_30 by RS, on Flickr

 

35673644596_9767ddee76_b.jpgPhoto28_26 by RS, on Flickr

 

34903673063_65484d4d35_b.jpgPhoto30_28 by RS, on Flickr

 

35673644926_ca3137f8a8_z.jpgP7190002 by RS, on Flickr

 

^ Compressor in garage

 

35673370176_db2019a968_b.jpgRenrust011_zps3880bbc7 by RS, on Flickr

 

35712679205_7c8b07772c_b.jpgRenhole001_zps69f98d8d by RS, on Flickr

 

35582014861_158e51ab35_b.jpgDSC_0019_zps18e3d75e by RS, on Flickr

 

^ Rattle cans under the car port

Posted

i mean this in a nice way ...

 

take advice from one person and stick to it ...sometimes you see folk cherry pick the easiest bits from everyones advice then wonder what went wrong , we all have differant ways and methods 

Posted

God know what it's been painted with in the past. Once you get to the point you're going to prime it you can spray on isolator, which should stop it reacting.

There's nothing worse than doing days of prep then all the paint reacts.

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